So im still trying to get my truck to start on its own. Finally cobbled together a homemade test light and tested a few of the glowplugs that were easy to get to, with what i found, i didnt need to continue past 4.

First off. When you turn the key on in the morning, the wts light comes on for a good 7-8 seconds. After you have driven the truck and let it set for say 2 hours, the light comes on for 4-5 seconds. If you drive the truck shut it down then go to fire it right back up, they come on for 2 seconds tops.

Now heres the weird part. According to the homemade test light, the 4 glow plugs i tested are all bad. Positive-light-spade on glow plug. The light works. Also, there is no difference whatsoever in cranking with the glow plugs unhooked versus cycling once twice or even three times then cranking. On a 70 degree day if it hasnt been started, it will discharge the batteries before it fires. And thats with the wts light on for 7-8 seconds and cranking immediately afterwards.

What ive gathered from this is two things, A: my glow plugs are toasted. B: the light stays on as if theyre working because of either 1) faulty controller, or 2) the relay is not making contact and not closing the curcuit. *note on 2) the relay does click but i have not tested it yet.
I will test the relay and the one i picked up from the JY and likely switch them and report what i find. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

What year is the engine? There are differences between the two glow plug systems that will make it tough to know how to help you out.

 

Ok, well ive figured a couple things out. First, my old relay was junk, this seems to work. Now when you turn the key on, it clickes then seems to cycle by clicking about a click a second. With test light on glow plug side of relay, there is no power that i can tell, but if i have 8 burned out glow plugs im thinking thats a given. But there is one odd thing about all of this still, and that is that the wts light is still on same as it was before, even tho the glow plugs arent working at all and are getting zero power, so says my test light. Is that normal? Im wondering if i should hook my wts wire to the GP side of the relay so that it is only on when the GP's are getting power, or is that a no no?

Oh, im sorry, the engine is an '89.

 

Lovely so new stranger problem found. The GP relay will not click when the IP fuel cutoff solenoid is connected.

 

had same problem with mine..... if you have 7.3 just go spend the 155 bucks and buy the whole relay and controller.... trying to cheat and just get the relay will only cost you more money.... i found out the hard way

 

My fix would be a relay, new glow plugs and a manual conversion on the system.

25 dollar relay, 80 dollars worth of glow plugs versus 155 controller/relay and 80 dollars worth of glow plugs.

125 dollars buys a lot of 10 seconds with you finger on the glow plug button before starting.

 

I see what youre sayin Dave, but theres an off chance someone esle may have to drive my truck at some point and i dont want to A) have to go get them because theyre not smart enough to push the button, or B) have to buy glow plugs everytime someone other than me drives it. My guess to the actuall "cause" of the problem is the former ignition wire i hooked the power wire for the engine harness into doesnt supply enough power to run both for some odd reason. So heres the plan: buy injectors, ( buddy has a donor truck im gunna check out to see if theyre worth snaggin out), next see if it starts, if not, gunna run an alterate key one power wire only to the glowplug relay key on and see if that works, and hopefully the wts is consistant with the glow plugs, if not, push button it is. One way or another ill get 'er done, but im sick of having to ether it every morning, at least its warmer now so its not every time it sets for more than an hour.

 

Easy.

Use the stock ignition wire to trigger a relay to supply power to the IP, timing advance, fast idle solenoid, and glow plug relay ignition terminal.

Those 30 amp relays like you would use for driving lights should do a fine job and not have a problem being on for a long time.

They are cheap enough you could keep a spare relay in the glove box.

 

Holy cow batman, thats an amazing idea! Can pick up a few of em and do the headlight upgrade why im at it. I tip my hat to you sir.

 

im honestly telling you mine did the exact same thing..... and it was the controller

i would just get the controller/relay combo and call it good and not F$#K with running wires and switches and fuses and all that Bull S#$T..... yea the controller/relay its more expensive but its easier and safer

not to mention the one from orielly.......... LIFETIME WARRANTY

 

thats an interesting way to put it there 1994, i am a fan of the auto starting not the manual switch but that statement is harsh. that lifetime warranty is a Limited lifetime warranty, it wont save you from everything or bail you out. The method of a simple relay is meant for a purpose. inexpensive an simple to work on/replace.

 

You also have to consider the engine is in a 78, not a truck that came with a diesel.

Most manufacturers, Ford included, always used about the smallest wires they could get away with when they manufactured vehicles.

Over time, the electric loads being close to max, plus the vibration and corrosion damage takes a toll on the wiring.

So after 32 years, he may not be getting the power out to the engine bay he needs.

20 dollars and an hour wiring to make sure he is getting all the power he needs first would be the route I would take.

Also doing the head light relay mod is another great idea.
Brighter lights, less load on the original wiring and head off a no head light problem before it happens out in the middle of nowhere one night.

If the glow plugs will cycle with the IP solenoid unhooked, but not if it is hooked up tells me the current draw is maxed out on the ignition circuit as it is now.
The new glow plug relay/controller may draw less power and work with everything hooked up, then again it might not.
With more power, the old one may also work fine for several more years.

 

but if you took a diesel engine and put it in a truck that was not a diesel to start with wouldnt you have to swap the wiring harness for the diesel to make it work at all??? i was going to do a swap from a 94 to a 95 but everyone discouraged me due to the wiring harness swap

 

yea but as long as its not abused and it fails from use for its intended purpose there shouldn't be any issues getting it swapped out.... i have special boxes for all the tickets for the parts i buy for my truck and my boat just in case i have an issue

 

Thanks for all the input guys! Really appreciate it. 94, i totally understand what youre saying, but a guy with my income at the moment, makes 100% sure something doesnt work before trying to fix it, then finally replacing it. I ended up just using a spare starter solenoid for my 2nd relay, ran some 6 gauge wire from the battery side of the actuall starter solenoid and ran the engine harness to it.
Next, went to buddies donor truck, came back with 7 working GP's, not sure how well they work, and theyre all mismatched, about 4 different brands iirc. Put em in, now when i turn the key on, light kicks on about 5 seconds then you can hear the actual GP relay cycling. All good things except for the fact that she still doesnt want to start. This morning went to start it, and eventually used either after the GP's were done cycling, only cranked it about 10 seconds. This afternoon, went to fire it up cycled GP's once and cranked about 20 seconds and it fired, bout 58-60*. Havent verified yet that the GP's are actually getting juice though, so 94 you may be right, i have a spare controller from the JY to try yet too so im not givin up just yet.

Oh, and as far as the engine wiring goes, bascially only wires i used from the diesel was the engine harness. I cut all wires at the firewall on the 89, got rid of the ones i didnt need, and ran what was left of them across the cowl to the drivers side firewall where i spliced all the wiring into my truck. The Tail light and fuel tank gauge, tank switch harness was a little more involved but fairly straight forward. Also, a 79 is really simple when it comes to wiring, so is an 89 IDI. A 94/95 pickup/ engine... not so much.