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i had a customer of mine tell me about these today. Will definately be trying them when i put the headers on the mighty V-10. FORD Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket
I have them on my V10 and I love them (I assume those are the Remflex). They require cautious handling as they are graphite, so if you bend it it will snap, but as long as you take care when installing, or have a good shop do it, I think you'll be really happy. You can see the crush at the ports and the way they fill around the entire flange.
I also replaced all the studs and nuts with a high grade steel stud and copper-clad pinched (read self-locking) nuts I have used on high performance VW, Audi, and Porsche engines. I have never had a failure with them, and with the combination of the headers and the new gaskets I don't expect one here.
I'll assume you already know this, but to educate other readers:
The number 1 cause of header gasket leaks is OVER torquing the bolts. Follow the specs. Tighter is not better - it will over crush the gasket and squeeze it out the sides, resulting in leaks.
My technique: Install headers with them full floating (no head pipes, EGR, etc connected) so they can line up perfectly flat to head.
Use premium gaskets, like these.
Torque using OE pattern and progressive steps of torque.
Use some way to lock the fasteners. I usually use safety wire (after final torquing) because it's the cheapest and non-locking nuts don't interfere with torque readings, but there are lots of locking technologies. It is a pain to drill nuts unless you have a safety wire drilling vice to hold them.
After 100 miles or so, re-torque once. And only once.
Install safety wire so the fasteners won't loosen.
Forget about them and drive.
I've never had a header leak, and some of the headers I've installed were not the best quality....
yup i do know that. I liked the quality of these, and wanted to make sure my fellow V-10ers knew about them. I used to have headers on my old chevy pickup, i didnt mind replacing gaskets on that, it was easy, but with the V-10 i want a quality gasket, so i dont have to worry about it after initial install and retorque.
I used the locking bolts from Summit. It was very hard to get some of the clips on. We got them all but I mean over an hour to get a couple of them. Fingers just would not fit.
Amen to the over-torquing. Not just for header bolts, but for any fastener. I think I've posted this elsewhere, but I always, when the size matches, use manifolds studs and nuts I source from Techtonics Tuning. They are not the only ones who carry them, but they aren't far away from me and customer service is great. Anyway, the standard euro exhaust nut is a copper clad, pinched nut. It gives accurate torque readings, doesn't back off, and doesn't need safety wire or a special lock plate/washer (though for certain apps I do safety wire). And, they are cheap. The stud is just a good grade of steel, and also cheap. I have used them, or a version of them, for over 20 years on Porsche, VW, and Audi engines with not one failure. Ever. Have not ever had a leak, even in track applications. I just had the studs replaced on my '99 V10, and used the Remflex gaskets (never used them before, but so far I like them), and everything is buttoned up tight with no need to re-torque, no leaks, nothing. I'd be happy to find a photo of the nut if anyone is interested, or link to a catalogue page that will give an idea of pricing.
Here is a catalog page, not TT, but ECS, with the OEM lock nut. A bit mroe expensive here, I have found them for less than half that. However, they work, and at 8mm work on the Ford exhaust studs. If you look at the top photo, you can see how they are pinched. There is another verison of a locking exhaust nut that is an aftermarket for these vehicles, but I don't like it as much. You can find them on the ECS site if interested.