ebay header questions
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 84
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From: Memphis, MI
ebay header questions
i am looking to purchase the ebay headers when i replace my broken exhaust studs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JVT-S...Q5fAccessories
i just have a few questions for anyone who has these headers.
can i still use manifold studs with the headers?
also. how was fitment?
and any other issues anyone has had with these?
thanks
2000F350V10
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JVT-S...Q5fAccessories
i just have a few questions for anyone who has these headers.
can i still use manifold studs with the headers?
also. how was fitment?
and any other issues anyone has had with these?
thanks
2000F350V10
Last edited by 2000f350v10; Aug 30, 2009 at 10:52 AM. Reason: wanted to add link
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 421
From: Long Island USA
I used zinc-plated (galvanized) grade 8 bolts that were longer than the supplied bolts.
You could use studs, I guess, but you might have issues getting the nuts on. Some of the bends in the tubes are pretty tight. I remember one bolt had to be inserted in the flange before the header was bolted up because the tube was too close.
You could use studs, I guess, but you might have issues getting the nuts on. Some of the bends in the tubes are pretty tight. I remember one bolt had to be inserted in the flange before the header was bolted up because the tube was too close.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 141
Likes: 1
You also need to notch the passenger side frame rail a little. Its about a 4" long by 1/2" section that needs to be cut out. I did mine with the shock tower removed, and cut it with a cutting wheel on a 4" grinder.
Get some bolts and washers from your local hardware store. I used stainless ones with a dab of anti sieze on the threads. The size is M8x1.25x25.
Best way to do this is to remove the inner wheel well (plastic) and the shock tower and shock. You may have to drill some busted studs out and a Dewalt 90* drill with cobalt bits and ez-outs work pretty good if you are good with your hands when drilling.
The supplied bolts for the collectors will be way too short. You'll need to get these too.
You'll also need a 1/2 wrench that you can cut in half and weld into an L-shape to tighten some of the center-lower bolts.
The factory studs are too long, when the header is tightened the stud will hit the primary tubes in some spots.
Get some bolts and washers from your local hardware store. I used stainless ones with a dab of anti sieze on the threads. The size is M8x1.25x25.
Best way to do this is to remove the inner wheel well (plastic) and the shock tower and shock. You may have to drill some busted studs out and a Dewalt 90* drill with cobalt bits and ez-outs work pretty good if you are good with your hands when drilling.
The supplied bolts for the collectors will be way too short. You'll need to get these too.
You'll also need a 1/2 wrench that you can cut in half and weld into an L-shape to tighten some of the center-lower bolts.
The factory studs are too long, when the header is tightened the stud will hit the primary tubes in some spots.
Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 858
Likes: 1
This long thread should help you out. The first pages are krewat's install.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ud-or-two.html
My Thorleys got about a 1/4 turn on them after 100 or so miles.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ud-or-two.html
My Thorleys got about a 1/4 turn on them after 100 or so miles.
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