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engine temp

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Old May 16, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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engine temp

changed water pump and added anti-freeze and water, started engine and let warm, as the temp hand went up added more water, noticed the engine temp light came on, temp hand went back to normal but the light stayed on. engine never over heated or radirator boiling so not sure. let set for about three hours started it again temp light still on. any idea why it's not going off.
 
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Old May 16, 2010 | 09:50 PM
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oreocreaming
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might be a bad ground, or the sensor is trash
 
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Old May 16, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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put a mechanical gauge on there, then there is NO doubt.
 
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Old May 16, 2010 | 10:23 PM
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I second the mechanical gage. The original gages aren't worth throwing away.
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 01:48 AM
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Im not sure, but these have two different coolant sensors in them. From what i understand 1 for the gauge and 1 for the light. You could prolly just replace the sending unit.
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:16 PM
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senor

i found one senor behind the radirator line, where would the other one be located
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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there is one right next to the thermostat housing
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:41 PM
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thats the one i found. does the senor for the light work off a different one? getting this truck ready to sell. it's a 90 E-350, old ambulance, now flat bed. hate working on it, no room
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:43 PM
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Both temp sensors are on the drivers side of the engine.

The one in the head is for the temp light.
The one in the block in front of the head is for the gauge.



The temp switch by the thermostat is for timing advance and fast idle only.
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:47 PM
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thanks dave. that helped me a lot. the pic saids it all. i'll start there tomorrow and see what i can find
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:57 PM
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Just by unplugging the sensor in the head (the one that operates the light) should make the light go out. If the light stays on, the circuit is grounding out somewhere. If the light does go out when unplugged, then I'd say it's a faulty sensor.

Of course this is all based on an engine that's not over heated at the time of the test.
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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You might try unplugging the connector and plugging it back in a couple times.

Every time I was my engine, I have to do that with all my electrical connections on the gauges.

Best option though is a mechanical gauge with real numbers.

How hot is N or O or M or A or L?

Nobody really knows.
 
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