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Why change to 4.10 gears? I have a 1 ton truck, and most of my driving is around town or on the freeway. I changed from 3.74's to 3.31's, and can now cruise at 65--70 mph at a relatively good rpm. I frequently tow/haul, and don't really tell the difference. The only place I noticed it was towing a trailor over the mountains into Oregon, but would rather have to downshift on those rare occasions than to tach out constantly. Unless you are hauling everyday, I can't see the use of 4.10's.
4.10s are horrible without o/d or very tall tires. My E250 is getting buzzy by 60mph. I have a set of 3.55s (used) I might install when it cools off (damn it's humid and hot here !!!) but, I'm kicking around buying something in the 3.25-3.30 neighborhood. My main concern is will my FI 300 be able to handle a heavy 3/4 ton van and a 4500 lb camper trailer adequately
4.10s are horrible without o/d or very tall tires. My E250 is getting buzzy by 60mph. I have a set of 3.55s (used) I might install when it cools off (damn it's humid and hot here !!!) but, I'm kicking around buying something in the 3.25-3.30 neighborhood. My main concern is will my FI 300 be able to handle a heavy 3/4 ton van and a 4500 lb camper trailer adequately
I changed my rears from the 3.74's to the 3.31's about 5 years ago. They are in my F-350. With my 390 in it I towed a trailor over the passes into Oregon. With my C6 I did have to hit second gear on the highest grades, but for the other 17 hours of driving, they were fine, a bit more top end.
Now, with my hp 300, I have only hauled in town. So far I am happy with the change. Why suffer 100% of the time for the hauling capability you will use 2% of the time? When I get my Gear Vendor in, that should head tremendously with mpg and towing.
I changed my rears from the 3.74's to the 3.31's about 5 years ago. They are in my F-350. With my 390 in it I towed a trailor over the passes into Oregon. With my C6 I did have to hit second gear on the highest grades, but for the other 17 hours of driving, they were fine, a bit more top end.
Now, with my hp 300, I have only hauled in town. So far I am happy with the change. Why suffer 100% of the time for the hauling capability you will use 2% of the time? When I get my Gear Vendor in, that should head tremendously with mpg and towing.
I agree; I'm thinking of going with something in the 3.25-3.31 range over the 3.55s I have (that are not installed yet), and if those gears are a little too tall, just use my 81 F250 (3.55s) if I have a real heavy trailer
One little thing I haven't noticed in all these posts is the use of the Mr. Gasket set #260. It works way better than the Fel Pro set with Headers. Just FYI.
Another little tip I forgot to mention. When I had my last 300 I had an 88 Bronco that was sitting in the back yard. I noticed that the 351 had alot bigger throttle body. I took the throttle body, the tubes and air cleaner off my bronco and fit it on the 300. It was a world of difference, like a completly different animal. Given it was just getting more air, but in my opinion, there was a Huge seat of the pants difference. It's just a suggestion, but if I got another 300 this would be one of the first things that I would do to it.
Another little tip I forgot to mention. When I had my last 300 I had an 88 Bronco that was sitting in the back yard. I noticed that the 351 had alot bigger throttle body. I took the throttle body, the tubes and air cleaner off my bronco and fit it on the 300. It was a world of difference, like a completly different animal. Given it was just getting more air, but in my opinion, there was a Huge seat of the pants difference. It's just a suggestion, but if I got another 300 this would be one of the first things that I would do to it.
matt
Really ? Was it a simple bolt on ? Did you lose any fuel economy ?
One little thing I haven't noticed in all these posts is the use of the Mr. Gasket set #260. It works way better than the Fel Pro set with Headers. Just FYI.
I didn't know about them until a few weeks ago. Been having sealing issues with my intake and the FelPro just never seemed to cut it. Tried a Clifford gasket and it split and busted my intake. After I had it fixed and planed, someone recommended the Mr. Gasket #260.
After just taking it out of the box it shipped in, I could tell it was very high quality.
Sealed it up incredibly well (have 20psi vacuum at idle). I'd recommend it over any others.
Really ? Was it a simple bolt on ? Did you lose any fuel economy ?
Really simple bolt on...The only difference is that there are water passages that went through the 351's TB that I had to grind down to fit. The bolts matched perfectly, The only thing that I had to do was cut the tubes down a little bit (I dont' remember how much) for them to fit, but other than that it was an almost direct swap.
No, it was a 95, the 96 had a 351 and Mass Air. The 95 was Speed density like the bronco, but I don't think that would make much of a difference as long as you used your Mass Air meter...if yours is...a Mass aired 300 would probably have more gains from this swap. JMO
im new to this site. i have worked in quite a few junkyards. wegotit auto salvage in ny,j&v auto in westhampton ny, midway auto salvage in nj, etc. the absolute easiest way is to look at the sticker on the drivers side door jamb/post. look at where it says "axle". what is the code? now look up ford axle codes online @ drivetrain.com go to ford differential axle codes.(i used to know all the codes by heart but its been a couple years.)this should tell you exactly what ratio and wether or not it is conventional,limited,or posi. now of course this only works if you have a "stock" rear..but if not. check the tag. it says it right on there. or if your still not certain it is what it says it is. do the test. hope this helps everybody.
i have a 92 f 150 reg cab long bed 4.9l 2wd.(i wish it were 4x4 but have been told the 2wd frame will not handle the torque from the four wheel) i have the m50d tranny with od. it came stock with 2:73 conventional and really light suspension. 275,000 miles young. since i've had it i've put about 6 grand in it. swapped out the rear for 3:55 posi. put heavy duty f250 suspension with load helpers in the back. hd 250 coils/shocks up front. i got rid of that crap 92 exhaust manifold and put the 94 manifold on. and everything but the long block is new. avgs bout 18 mpg highway and 13 city. (front fuel gauge does not work,so i got good at this) the 2:73s gave me about 24 mpg highway. had hard time gettin movin pullin a 17 foot ski boat but once it got movin she hauled nicely. but the 3:55s have pulled alot of vehicles very stuck in mud out. i can put about 3500 lbs in the bed and pull a fully loaded 10 ft. uhaul trailer that wieghs i guess bout 2000 lbs without a problem. the old 300 still lights em up! i have had alot of 300s and this is by far the strongest setup i've had. but i am ready to swap to the 460. make her a prerunner. we'll see.
i have a 92 f 150 reg cab long bed 4.9l 2wd.(i wish it were 4x4 but have been told the 2wd frame will not handle the torque from the four wheel)
Actually, the frame is no different between 2wd/4wd in the F150, from 1980 to 1996. In fact, it's a bolt-in swap to change from twin I-beam to the TTB front drive axle. I'm getting ready to do this to my 80......
jerzyrebel-
Welcome to the form & site! Hope U can stay awhile, lots of good folks here.
Thanks for the info. A 4wd 150 W/a 460 should B something! A friend has (I think it's) an 80's 250 Lareyette with the 460. We mostly use it as a woods truck (in 4 w) and occasionally to haul (anything!) down the road.
easiest way is to look at the sticker on the drivers side door
wish that worked in every case.
i got rid of that crap 92 exhaust manifold and put the 94 manifold on.
This is the first time I've ever heard this (and the exhaust manifolds from EFI are a hot topic due to their performance upgrade for a carb model), but what exactly's the difference between a 92 and 94 exhaust manifold on the 300?