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Torque Wrench
Axle Seal (knuckle seal) Installer (Special Tool)
Generic part number OTC 6695 (60-80$)
Breaker Bar
Ratchet and Extensions Pickle Fork
Sockets 1 5/16", 1 1/8", 21mm, 8mm Punches and Pry Bars
Pullers (some people manage without
pullers)
Large Hammer
Ball Joint Press
Snap Ring Pliers (big ones)
parts needed
Ball Joint, Upper
(1 PER SIDE)
MOOG K80026, FORD F6TZ3V049BA, MOTORCRAFT MCS104273
Ball Joint, Lower
(1 PER SIDE)
MOOG K8607T, FORD 2C3Z3V050BA, MOTORCRAFT MCS104149
Yellow O-Ring, for between hub and
knuckle
(1 PER SIDE)
Axle Seal (knuckle seal), Large outer
seal (1 PER SIDE)
FORD F81Z-3254-CB
Dust Seal, Small inner seal
(1 PER SIDE)
FORD F81Z-1S175-HCA
Parts That
May Be Needed:
Axle, Needle Bearing, Front (if needed) FORD C6TZ-3123-A, NAPA B2110
Axle Shaft, Outboard End (if needed) FORD 4C3Z-3B387-AA
Axle, U-Joint, Front (if needed) FORD F81Z-3249-AA
Autolock Hub O ring
(part number includes 2 ea.), (if
needed)
FORD 4C3Z-1K106-AA
Wheel Bearing/Hub, front, 4 wheel abs,
single rear wheels
(might be a good time to check the
wheel bearing)
They can be done but proper tools and time restraints is why I had mine done. I paid about 350.00-450.00 a side but also had a few other little things done. Its basiclly all labor beings lower ball joint only cost around 60.00 bucks and uppers about 40.00.
since the MOOGS are greasable, and less than 1/2 the cost, I am going that route. Hell, my factory set has lasted 305K miles, just cant justify over double in price.
since the MOOGS are greasable, and less than 1/2 the cost, I am going that route. Hell, my factory set has lasted 305K miles, just cant justify over double in price.[/QUOTE]
Wow, 305k!? That's incredible. You been runnin those big ol tires that whole time? I went Moogs and I've definitely like them.
since the MOOGS are greasable, and less than 1/2 the cost, I am going that route. Hell, my factory set has lasted 305K miles, just cant justify over double in price.
Wow, 305k!? That's incredible. You been runnin those big ol tires that whole time? I went Moogs and I've definitely like them.[/quote]
Yep pretty much. Its had 33" tires on it for ten years, and I went to 35's a month or so ago.
I was quoted $600 labor per side on my SD. That was to replace all dust seals, axle u-joints and ball joints as seen in the linked write-up. So I decided to do it myself. Then after all of that work and buttoning it back up, my inner axle oil seal leaked.
I was told by a reputable drive train shop here that it's very common to puke an inner axle oil seal when you pull the axles and reinstall them, especially if they haven't been pulled in a long time. I guess all the tire shops around here used to do ball joints and they quit doing them because of the guarantee they offered. The inner axle oil seals would leak and they'd have to replace them on their dime.
Anyway, if you're doing the ball joints, I highly recommend putting in a new set of inner axle oil seals. They run $75ea and you'll have to pull the gears out to get to them. I did a write-up on it, but no good pics. Riverrat (sp?) did a write-up with pics.
As far as ball joints go, get a set of greasable Moogs. You may have to pick up a low profile lower ball joint grease fitting to avoid interference with your axle u-joint ears. Pick up your dust seals at Ford. If you click on that link I posted, it gives you an itemized P/N list to procure. Don't forget to make yourself a dust seal driver. Said driver is shown and described in the link ~2/3 the way down.
Where are you in Texas, maybe we could get together and do yours and mine, I have the tools, I'm in Dallas. 2 heads, 4 arms, better than 1 head, 2 arms.
Wow, 305k!? That's incredible. You been runnin those big ol tires that whole time? I went Moogs and I've definitely like them.
Yep pretty much. Its had 33" tires on it for ten years, and I went to 35's a month or so ago.[/QUOTE]
Rolled the '00 at 75k, had to replace ball joints then. The '01 made it to 160k running 34's.
Back to the question, some good links above on the how/to's. My vote is to definitely do them yourself. The only thing that's not readily available to most is the seal driver, but easy to make one. I was surprised at how hard I had to whop those seals to get em in. She tight. Wouldn't have a clue how to link you to making the seal driver, but someone here will or already did.
since the MOOGS are greasable, and less than 1/2 the cost, I am going that route. Hell, my factory set has lasted 305K miles, just cant justify over double in price.
WOW! I did not know the price of them, thats way too much. So much for that suggestion.Roy
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