I am wanting to replace my stock A/C compressor with something a little more modern and efficient. I am looking at something like this:

Proliance Ready-Aire 2068N

Those of you who have done this before (Or those who just know how)... What else would be good to add? Receiver/dryer? New condensor? Both are probably a good idea, I just don't want to miss anything.

 

You'd need one more like this
Vintage Air 04808-VUA - Vintage Air Sanden Air Conditioning Compressors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
with an adapter bracket like this http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air...-mount-516.php
to mount it on the factory York spot. You'll definitely have to get a new drier. And if you plan to go with R134a a parallel flow condenser would work a little better I think than the factory tube and fin one. Also you'd have to get the R134a charge ports for your hoses. Some people change the hoses completely to barrier type hose so the R134a can't "seep" through. Just my .02

Of course there are many other ways to go about putting A/C back on or in your truck this is just one way. I'm sure others will come along with some guidance too.

 

Any other info people can offer?

 

Definitely go with a Sanden compressor.

 

You don't need barrier hoses with R-134a-that part is just a myth. You do need to make sure there are no leaks like your charge ports. I'll start my own thread on that later. Sanden brand compressor has been the gold standard for R134a compressors. Fords uses them and they are just better technology than the york style.

 

Actually not a myth. If so, why then do the vehicle manufacturers use and train the use of barrier hoses? The R134a Molecules are smaller thatn the R-12 molecules. R134a will seep from the rubber non-barrier hoses. The length of time it will take to become empty is dependant on several factors.
Also, many times the oil in the different systems are not compatible. The mixed type of oils can make one heck of mess. I have been turning wrenches since the mid 90's and have seen the the results first hand many times of improper conversions. In the end they are either done proper or left non-functional......Let the debate begin.....\
I do prefer the sanden compressor hands down.

 

I have to agree 100% with this post. I just finished my 30th AC job this month. You learn alot fixing peoples mistakes.

 

Enlighten the ignorant; what are "barrier" hoses? Im going to have to get around to my a/c soon also.

 

A barrier hose is a special type of flexible hose that would replace the regular rubber hoses in the ac system. Its designed to prevent freon from escaping by permeating (seeping, soaking through, or however you want to invision it) through the rubber pores. They usually are made with special layer (ie barrier layer) and/or are made of special compounds to hold it in. Usually they are a little thicker than regular hoses.

I'm not tring to be a pain in the rear, but you don't need barrier hoses with R-134a. R-22 and some of the odd ball refrigerant do. (at one time I could have listed them all for you) Yes 134 is a smaller molecule, but its not small enough to get through. It definitely leaks easier, especially o-rings and charge ports. I heard it many times and read it over and over when I took the classes 15 years ago, back when I thought I wanted to be a mechanic. Mind you I haven't worked as a mechanic in 10 years. But even the EPA still states R22 and its blends are the only refrigerants requiring barrier hoses. Check it out.

Choosing and Using Alternative Refrigerants for Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning | Alternatives / SNAP | US EPA

Now with that being said, back to the original question. If you are putting in a new system or even just the hoses anyways, it doesn't cost that much to build it with barrier hoses. If you are just replacing the compressor, I wouldn't worry about it. Most of the leaking I have seen is the charging ports. I have converted several cars and R134a doesn't cool as well as R12, modern compressor or not. The best conversions I have done in the past were ones that replaced the condenser and expansion valves. Its hard, near impossible to get all the old oil out of the system, so be sure the oil you use is compatible with the mineral oil, and I like to flush hoses, evaporator, and condensor out individually if possible with lacquer thinner and lots of compressed air . Also, its usually standard to replace the receiver/dryer anytime you open the system. And lastly, its cheap so change out o-rings to the R-134a neoprene that seal better.