Just so you know, I used a dremmil tool with grinding blades to cut this thing. Made easy work of it too and I cut the metal off the end just after where the stock clips where originally cut from to try to make it a bit tighter. Going to go to napa tomorrow and see if I can find a shim or something to keep the master cylinder from sliding back and forth through the firewall as it has about a 1/8" play and I don't like play unless it needs to be there.

 

Well put the new master cyl in. And now like alot of people on here I am having a problem with air in the line. There is no bleeders on the system. O well well at least the pedal stays in lol

 

LOL, that's funny, just noticed your post.
Yea, supposedly the system can be bled but it's supposed to be done on a bench. Some have managed to do it while still on the truck but I'm not sure how they have done it. Heck I'm not sure how Ford bleeds the things before sending them out.
There has to be a solution so we can bleed these things so the stealership will stop bleeding us for these stinking master and slave cylinders.

Anyhow the update on my clutch pedal is that it is still sticking in place after that crazy cut I made this last time. Nothing has broke loose, the clutch has a minute amount of play in it because the master cylinder wiggles back and forth through the firewall but that's about it. I just haven't gotten around to putting a shim or something in to stop the play but it least the pedal doesn't come up to my knee anymore.

 

To bleed the slave cylinder, remove it from the clutch housing and position it so the tube goes upward with no spots that could trap air. Hold the slave cylinder with the push rod downward. Make sure that the master cylinder resivoir is full.

From the service manual:

7. CAUTION:
Do not allow the clutch master cylinder reservoir to run dry.

Purge the air from the clutch hydraulic system.

Push the push rod slowly into the slave cylinder until it bottoms out the piston. Hold the push rod in this position for five to ten seconds to allow all trapped air to rise through the system. Very slowly, so that air is not drawn back into the slave cylinder, release the push rod (the spring in the slave cylinder will force the piston outward). Wait five to ten seconds for the air bubbles to rise. Repeat this process until all air purged from the system. Verify that the fluid in the reservoir is free of air bubbles.

 

Nice! Thanks for that!!!

 

i have this same problem, i just got the clip out of the master cylinder and need to cut the clip to make 4 or 5 of those tabs like you did. How is yours holding up thats its been 6 months now since you posted about it?

 

Ok I have a 2001 F350 with clutch issues first the pin broke off the pedal that holds the push-rod then the push-rod popping out of the master cylinder. I found this thread and it was great, but I think I might have a better solution. For both problems so I spent about $15 at the hardware store and 3 hours of labor and here is what I came up with.


First got a threaded stud from the hardware store that is about the same size as the original stud and cut it down to fit.


Next I put 2 E-clips on the end of the push-rod works great cause there is the lip that is suppose to catch the original clip that is now broken.


Next pull use a small screwdriver to pull the master cylinder apart DO NOT PULL IT COMPLETELY OUT!!!! just about an half an inch or so to get a hold of it so you can drill it out ever so slightly to fit the E-clips on the end of the push-rod.







How to fix the other end of the push-rod (most people have a problem with the plastic retainer clip I did not the pin that is on the pedal just broke off one day). This will fix either problem.
You have to remove the pedal assembly to fix this problem only takes about 15 minutes to remove.

Okay you will need a drill 3/8" to remove the stud and make a clean new hole for the bolt.

Materials list:

• Grade 8 3/8" bolt (I think it was a 2" bolt)
• All metal Lock Nut
• 3-4 washers (spacing)
• 3/8" heim joint (YOU WILL NEED TO CUT SOME OF THE HEIM JOINT OFF, BUT MAKE SURE NOT TOO MUCH)
• 2 threaded studs
• tap to thread the holes for the 2 studs

You will need to cut the push-rod off, but make sure that you cut it where the 2 red lines are below or you will not have enough of the rod left to make this work.



It would be best if you have a drill press to make the holes for the 2 studs that go in the heim joint. Once you have done that grab the tap and be very careful!!! If your tap is long enough you can just run it all the way through if not do one side at a time aging be very careful as this is what is going to keep the rod in the heim joint.

Once you have the push-rod ground down where it will fit in the hole make sure when you put the 2 studs in that you make them contact the flat sides of the push-rod which you can see in the above picture.
**IMPORTANT**
Tighten the studs down until they make contact with the flat part of the push-rod now loosen them and pull the push-rod out. You should see 2 marks one on each side take a small drill bit and make 2 indentations in the push-rod (small cups to catch the end of the stud **THIS WILL PREVENT THE ROD FROM SLIPPING OUT OF THE HEIM JOINT**)
***LOCK-TITE THE STUDS TOO







************************************************** *********************************
***Update everything works great I just had to put in a longer bump stop because the Heim Joint bottoms out on the on the clutch safety switch. Here is the picture of what put in. I found a rubber bump stop in the spare parts bucket in the garage but I think I got it at the Hardware store too some time ago.