Truck is a 1989 F-250 4x4 5spd 351.
I bought this truck about 2 weeks ago and have been fixing all kinds of small stuff, and lots of half finished work and rigging from the previous owner. But that's with any vehicle lol. So it seems as though the clutch pivot plastic bushing clip has been broken and missing for a very very long time, the push rod is completely hogged out and super egg shaped and the pivot is earn really bad and they had vise grips on the end of it to hold the rod on, I had retrieved a good clutch master cylinder rod and a pivot in really good condition from the local yard and picked up a new plastic bushing but in my futile attempts to remove the rod I messed up the master cylinder but got the rod out lol, but I picked up a fresh new master cylinder so no worries, but my problem is is that when I removed the vise grips and popped the rod off of the pivot it shot forward and was off by about an inch of lining up with the pivot pin, so my question is, should I reclock the pivot so that the new master cylinder rod slides right on to the pivot or should I have to shove the rod in some to have it line up with the pivot pin? I'm perplexed. And also, the previous owner put a new clutch and flywheel and slave cylinder in within the past 1500 miles but the clutch doesn't start to grab until it is about halfway in the pedal travel off the floor, is that normal? And it doesn't slip at all when the pedal is all the way up, I did check that. So help me out here guys, I'm stumped, I wish all clutches were adjustable!!!!!

 

Well crap, guess no one has had this problem lol

 

Yeah, re-clock the pivot. If you push on the pushrod to get it to engage the pivot, you'll in effect be starting to disengage the clutch. That will result in a persistent slip.

And actually, it's good that the clutch engages/disengages toward the top of the travel. That way, you know you have enough travel to fully disengage it to shift. You just don't want it so high on the travel that, again, it's not fully engaged when the pedal is all the way up. Just see how it is after re-clocking it; it may be fine.

 

Also take a look at the clutch/brake pedal assembly bracket. Mine broke and it wasn't actuating the rod to the master. There is a little piece that you can put on the end of the pushrod that makes a world of difference and will never fail.

 

And make sure you put the pivot back on with the clutch pedal all the way up

 

Thanks guys! And yeah I got a new clutch master cylinder because the rod was destroyed and picked up a pivot at the junk yard that was good but after I took the pivot off and got a good look up in there noticed that where the shaft for the pedal where it come through on the right side the bushing in there is blown out too and a chunk of the pedal assembly is broken out. So now I will be scouring the junk yards for a pedal assembly in hopefully ok condition and I can just replace the bushings. And I was thinking about one day doing that heim joint upgrade one day too. And I figured that having to push in the pushrod a bit would start to disengage the clutch but I didn't know if there was take up room in the master cylinder that had to be taken up first to have propper travel or not. Most of the old trucks I have have been mechanical clutches so it was simple rod adjustments and all all of my hydraulic jeeps I've built the clutch started to grab a lot sooner and same with my other trucks, and I know every vehicle is different I just wanted to make sure that this style of truck that that was normal operation. And thanks again for all of your help guys. You have all been a tremendous help in all of the threads I've started and commented in on with questions, you have made this project a lot more enjoyable and quicker. I'm glad I've found this site!!!! It's awesome!!! Thanks!!!

 

Anyone know if other year pedal assemblies will work in an 89? I know 87-91 are the same and I can use one from a 150 250 350 or bronco. But wasn't sure if other years would work

 

E69Z-7526-A .. Nylon Bushing-Self Locking Type - Clutch Pedal to Idler Lever Rod / Available from Ford.

This description is somewhat mis-leadings because the parts catalog pic shows this bushing is the one at the end of the clutch master cylinder rod.

Bushing fits into the end of the rod...then onto a stud of the clutch idler lever: E7TZ-7A554-A = available from Ford.

E69Z-7526-A applications: 1985/89 Ranger/Bronco II; 1986/89 Aerostar; 1987/96 F150/350 & Bronco.

OH Ford dealers in Cincinnati, Cleveland, Columbus, Groveport have it, but this is only a partial list off one website, so there's probably a lot more.

Obsolete parts seller (part is not obsolete) Green Sales Co. in Cincinnati OH has 2 = 800-543-4959.
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E7TZ-7A554-A applications: 1987/96 F150/350 & Bronco.

Ricart Ford in Groveport OH has 1 (614-836-6401), but there may be more OH sources. But Ricart also has the bushing.

Note: I waited around for you to respond, but you didn't. So, if you have any questions, I won't be on FTE between now and Sunday morning.

 

Sorry man, work was getting busy or else I would have responded sooner, and yeah I read through your list of numbers but I'm a little confused, I may be able to get a pedal assembly tomorrow that is used and want to change the plastic bushings that are on the rod that goes all the way across the pedal assembly to the pivot. I called the ford dealer down the road from me and they said they are all obsolete and no longer in stock, so which part number that you listed should I call the ford dealer you said and ask about?

 

The parts I listed are the bushing (E69Z-7526-A) that fits into the end of the clutch master cylinder rod, then onto the stud of the clutch idler lever (E7TZ-7A554-A).

Both these parts are available from Ford.

The clutch and brake pedals ride on 4 nylon bushings (EOTZ-2471-A). These bushings are also available from Ford.

I have access to the Ford D2D (Dealer to Dealer, Ford dealer parts locator system).

There are dozens of both these bushings and the idler lever stocked at Ford parts depots, so the dealer that told you they are obsolete is a liar!

 

Thanks man! Yeah the shaft bushings on the pedal assembly I just got from a junk yard yesterday are starting to get warm with minimal play, so needless to say I want to change all of the bushings in the assembly and make everything right and proper before installing it. And yeah when I called my local ford dealer down by my house (I should have known better and called the one we use all the time for work but oh well) the parts guy seem irritated when I told him I needed parts for an 89 ford he even tried to tell me I didn't have a good vin, and the vin on my title matches the vin on my dash and the vin sticker on the door! And after being put on hold 7 times and 30 min on the phone he says that all of the numbers for the parts diagram come up as either obsolete parts or no longer a good part number. Some people just need to take more pride in their job and do a little better. But thanks man I apreciate it! I'll definitely be calling them tomorrow with the numbers you supplied and getting the truck finally back on the road!

 

Using a VIN to get part numbers didn't begin until the mid 1990's. So, no 1989 uses this system. Dumb cluck parts guy obviously doesn't know this. (sigh)

Give the parts cluck the part numbers that I gave you, tell him that I have 45 years of Ford parts experience, all the parts catalogs and access to the D2D

So I know that all these part numbers are still available from Ford!

 

I didn't know they started the vin use in the early 90's, learn something new every day! And thanks man I apreciate it, I'll be calling them first thing tomorrow morning, and I'll be using the ford dealer I use at work all the time instead of the one down the road from my house. And ill make sure he finds them or I'll drive down there and show what you sent me haha!

 

Thanks again NumberDummy, I got all the bushings from ford yesterday and the guy on the phone actually knew what he was doing!

 

Just out of curiosity, how much did ford charge for the bushing set?