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It's a 2004. I'm pretty sure I have manual as I have *****, not push buttons. I dropped the glove box the other day and could see the arm moving up and down that controls the heat and cold. It is neumaticlly controlled. Maybe it's not opening all the way? I will try removing the air and opening it manually and seeing. It's just weird because the a/c worked like a dream last year and this year it sucks.
I have an F-250, not an Excursion, so forgive me if I'm way out in left field. But I think there are a lot of similarities.
The blend door is moved with an electric motor, not a vacuum motor. At least it is on my 2004. So if what you were looking at was controlled by vacuum, it wasn't the blend door.
The attached diagram from my service manual might help.
Ok,
A guy at work let me borrow his guage. It's just the one that goes on the low side and adds freeon if needed. It was reading about 20 when the comp. was running, and 35 when it stopped running. So, would I be wasting my time/money buying the big guages and more freeon to check the orfice screen since the pressure is between the numbers you said it should be at or should I still look towards the screen?
Does the temp change when you move the dial from cold to hot? Does the air distribution move from floor to face vents to defrost vents when you move the dial?
Does the temp change when you move the dial from cold to hot? Does the air distribution move from floor to face vents to defrost vents when you move the dial?
Yeah. Cold will be cold, and heat will be hot. It also comes out of where ever you select it to. It's kind of unrelated, but I noticed the rear blower will only blow on hi speed, no matter what speed I set it to also.
OK UPDATE!!
Hopefully this can help someone else out. I got access to a vacuum pump. I recovered all the freon from the system, and pulled a good vacuum on the system for an hour. I got it down to -30 (which is a perfect vacuum). I borrowed a 30lb bottle of freon, and a scale and watched as the system took in 4 lbs of freon and presto, cold air. It got down to 50 degree air idling in the driveway on my thermometer in the vent. So hopefully this will help out anybody with the same issues and will save them $$.
-Total $ invested...
-$4 orfice tube from auto zone. (which was stopped up with shavings)
-free guages from work
-free freon from co worker
-free scale from work
A few days of asking the a/c guys question after question. Not bad to get cold again.
I'm pretty sure any shop would have gotten me for at least $350-400, just throwing parts at it.
Did you fix the problem that caused the shavings to plug the orifice tube? Just asking.....
Not yet,
just figured it was either the comp going bad, or just shavings from when it was new, since new engines and things put off shavings, I chocked it up to that