Drag Link Adjustment Tool
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 366
Likes: 3
Drag Link Adjustment Tool
Although my shop manual gives good directions on how to adjust the drag link on my 55, it doesn't mention the proper tool. After taking a look, after the cotter pin is removed, it appears I can turn the cup with a wide blade screw driver; am I correct or is there a better way? Thanks.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 6
From: Dupont, Indiana
This is the tool for the job. Nothing like a good reason to buy a new tool.
brian...
http://www.sears.com:80/shc/s/search...13&vName=Tools
brian...
http://www.sears.com:80/shc/s/search...13&vName=Tools
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 366
Likes: 3
Thanks for everyones input. Before attempting to remove the cotter pins (which are frozen from rust and soaking in PB Blaster) I could actually rock the drag link left & right about 1/2 inch. Is it time to replace the drag link or will adjusting possibly settle-down the looseness? With this looseness, I "think" this may be one of the causes for my steering play.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
If you are talking about being able to rotate it on it's axis about 30-40 degrees, that's normal. If you are talking about pushing and pulling it 1/2 inch toward and away from the pitman arm, it's way past time for a rebuild.
It takes about 10 minutes to rebuild these. Kits are available everywhere Carpenter, C&G, etc. It's well worth it - $28. Get new boots too. Hopefully your pitman arm ***** and spindle arm ***** are ok.
https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlv...s=6&g=43&t=315
https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlv...s=6&g=43&t=319
It takes about 10 minutes to rebuild these. Kits are available everywhere Carpenter, C&G, etc. It's well worth it - $28. Get new boots too. Hopefully your pitman arm ***** and spindle arm ***** are ok.
https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlv...s=6&g=43&t=315
https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlv...s=6&g=43&t=319
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 366
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Hi Julie. The movement was from rocking it on its axis so I'm glad to hear that is normal. When I get home, I will try the push-pull test against the Pitman Arm. I still have to wrestle that stuck cotter pin out and hope the PB Blaster worked its magic. When you mentioned replacing the boots, are you apeaking of the seals (clamp w/rubber bottom)? My plan is to tighten the cup on the drag link down then back out slightly until I see the cotter pin opening.
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Hi Julie. The movement was from rocking it on its axis so I'm glad to hear that is normal. When I get home, I will try the push-pull test against the Pitman Arm. I still have to wrestle that stuck cotter pin out and hope the PB Blaster worked its magic. When you mentioned replacing the boots, are you apeaking of the seals (clamp w/rubber bottom)? YEP! My plan is to tighten the cup on the drag link down then back out slightly until I see the cotter pin opening.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Don't overtighten, there are springs behind the cups that are designed to absorb road shock, you don't want to compress them down. Once you get your cotterpin out, I'd suggest you disassemble the ends and check the condition of the ***** and cups as well as the springs. If you aren't sure how to disassemble them, be sure to ask, the parts order is different at each end and is critical, not unusual to find that someone reassembled them wrong. Clean all the parts and check for wear replacing any ***** or cups that show signs of wear or corrosion, check that the grease fittings are clear, reassemble with new rubber boots, grease with high quality wheel bearing grease and adjust per manual or instructions in rebuild kit.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
I think those were the same as the ones from the link in Post #4:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...00100600&aff=Y
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...00100600&aff=Y
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