highboy c-6 yoke
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From: clinton iowa
highboy c-6 yoke
anyone here running a divorced setup with a c-6 and 1350 yokes,went to driveline shop and what they got in on order was a slip yoke for a c-6,they have what they think will fit but its a course spline 10 count,are there different spline counts for a c-6,cant get to truck as its in a shop being painted to pull yoke and take it to the driveline shop,thanks
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From: clinton iowa
yep found out its a 10 spline and those 1350 yokes for them are kinda spendy too,like $116,there also the same yoke used for a dana 24tc,which is also 10 spline, got the 3 drivelines all upgraded to 1350 stuff now,ready for the first race next saturday. for future reference should someone need to know the spicer number for that fixed yoke is 3-4-3951-1
Last edited by fordsrgrt; May 2, 2010 at 08:33 AM. Reason: omission
Cross-Country
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Read your thread with interest. Does this mean that I can swap a 4 sp manual for a c-6 in my 75 highboy? IF that's a "Yes", then I'm thinking from your thread that I would need to purchase the yoke you're talking about to connect the back of the C-6 to the transfer case.
Is that right? If that's right, do you konw where I can get that yoke? Thanks.
Project 75 highboy with 360 and 4 sp - getting new body and 460 - and maybe C-6???
Is that right? If that's right, do you konw where I can get that yoke? Thanks.
Project 75 highboy with 360 and 4 sp - getting new body and 460 - and maybe C-6???
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From: N. IL
You should be able to run any 2wd trans that will bolt up to your engine. The center drive shaft may have to be modified to account for the different transmission lengths, plus you need some slip built in to accommodate for frame twist. Then you just need to figure out the right combination of yokes to make it correct.
Cross-Country
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thank you. I've got some measuring to do, but it looks like the C-6 will fit right into the 4x4 highboy. I think there's room to shorten the drive shaft between the 4 sp and the transfer case, and keep the sliding spline on that drive shaft intact. From a quick measurement, I think this would require cutting out the entire tubing section of the shaft and welding together the two ends that are now welded to the ends of the shaft tube. The frame cross member under the rear of the trans on the highboy that holds the rear trans mount seems to be in the right location as is.
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From: N. IL
To correctly shorten a drive shaft you need to cut the weld either end of the shaft near the yoke. You don't want to cut and splice it in the middle. If you are going to tackle the drive shaft job yourself take your time and make sure everything is square and lined up. I've shortened a few driveshafts for demolition derby cars but never a daily driver, so I was not as careful in doing the job.
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Cross-Country
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Thank you. I'm thinking I'd be better off having a professional shorten and balance the shaft. My highboy used to eat up U-joints like they were candy. Every 10,000 to 15,000 miles I'd be replacing one or two of them. I finally took all the drive shafts to a shop that specialized in balancing/rebuilding drive shafts and got them balanced with all new U-joints. No problem since then, just keep the U-joints greased and they've stayed good.
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swolh, A 2 wheel C6 is a easy swap into a highboy, been quite some time for me but I don't think my driveshaft had a slip joint in it, had it shortened 4"?, new U joints, and balanced for 90 bucks out the door. The problem is a 2 wheel drive C6 has no place to mount the transfercase shifter to.
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