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Wiring problem after engine swap.

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Old May 1, 2010 | 05:55 PM
  #16  
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the actuator is only around $10-13 from dealer or parts stores.
as for changing it, if you have mechanical knowledge, it is a 3-4 hour change because you need to disassemble the whole top of the column.. tilt column is harder than non tilt, but all in all it ain't that bad after you do one or two.
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 06:41 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by David85
If your radio stayed on too, then its definately in your ignition switch or somewhere between the switch and the key cylinder. I can't think of anytihng else that could cause all of that.
Sorry, I should have said that in the first post. Thank you for the help!
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
the actuator is only around $10-13 from dealer or parts stores.
as for changing it, if you have mechanical knowledge, it is a 3-4 hour change because you need to disassemble the whole top of the column.. tilt column is harder than non tilt, but all in all it ain't that bad after you do one or two.
Thanks.
I will test mine and then grab a new one. I need to fix the slop in the column anyway, I will just do both things at once.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 12:07 PM
  #19  
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That was not it, I used a screw driver to move it and it did not work.
I replace the switch and it made no diffrence.

I was wrong about the radio, it does not work in any key position.
No glow plugs and it will not turn over when I turn it to start.

The IP has power all the time, so do the 4x4 lights on the dash. The lights get dimmer when its in " off " but they still have power.

Can the GPC be the cause of this?
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 12:27 PM
  #20  
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Remember electricity will go through a wire in either direction.

So a wire shorted to a power source out in the engine bay, can and will power up things inside the cab.

Figuring out electrical problems without seeing exactly what it is doing is a pain.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 01:05 PM
  #21  
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Thanks.
Any idea what I should look at first?
This is the only thing left keeping me from driving the truck.

EDIT: could the GPC be shorted out inside and cause this?
The wiring for the GPC is one of the only things left on this truck I know very little about.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 01:46 PM
  #22  
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Did you connect the ground strap at the rear of the engine to the firewall? Sometimes that can cause strange symptoms.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 02:15 PM
  #23  
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I think so. Let me check it.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 03:14 PM
  #24  
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Thats what it was! I had connected it, but it broke when the truck was running.
I pulled one off the other motor, cleaned it up , put it on and everything works!.
Well, other than the tach. I will have to change the IP drive cover to fix that.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 03:51 PM
  #25  
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good news.

don't ya just love when it is a simple fix??
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 04:51 PM
  #26  
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I read the backwards, my bad. I wish there was a delete button in the edit menu.

GeneO
 

Last edited by Marianna2003; May 3, 2010 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Eliminate stupid comment
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Old May 3, 2010 | 05:16 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by bill11012
Thats what it was! I had connected it, but it broke when the truck was running.
I pulled one off the other motor, cleaned it up , put it on and everything works!.
Well, other than the tach. I will have to change the IP drive cover to fix that.
Awesome. I had a similar problem with an ranger once but I wasn't sure how similar the electrical system was to the F series. I guess now we know.

You would think that key off means key off with ground connected or not, but power can flow in unintended directions without working grounds. I remember back before the advent of LED trailer lights we had some really strange ghosts in the trailer wiring almost every time we had to use it. Always traced it back to a bad ground somewhere.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 07:43 PM
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With both battery grounds going straight to the engine, you really need to add a few more body and frame grounds.

Cost is low, problems prevented can be many.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 10:20 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
With both battery grounds going straight to the engine, you really need to add a few more body and frame grounds.

Cost is low, problems prevented can be many.
I will do that. Thanks!

Well, the speedo's out. Whats the first thing I should check on that?


I took the truck for a drive, looks like just a few more things need to be done.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 10:36 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by David85
Awesome. I had a similar problem with an ranger once but I wasn't sure how similar the electrical system was to the F series. I guess now we know.

You would think that key off means key off with ground connected or not, but power can flow in unintended directions without working grounds. I remember back before the advent of LED trailer lights we had some really strange ghosts in the trailer wiring almost every time we had to use it. Always traced it back to a bad ground somewhere.
I think most fords use this syle ground.

You should see my trailer, it has 9 grounds.
But hey, it works!
 
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