EBPV questions
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EBPV questions
My hpop is leaking from the rear cover so I pulled every thing out to have room to try an change it without pulling the hpop off but I also noticed my ebpv is starting to leak and was wondering if it would be smart of me to delete it I live in northern wisconsin how hard is it to pull the turbo out I ordered the o rings for it as a just in case good thing I did this is my first time werkin on a diesel so its all new to me any tips on the job at hand would be very helpful thanks guys
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Damon (South East Texas)
Many have deleted the EBPV with no ill effects. One reason to keep it is if you want to use it as an exhaust brake. I deleted mine at the first sign of an oil leak and never looked back. I do live a little farther south though.
Be sure to soak the clamps with PB Blaster or other penetrating oil beforehand to make life easier when trying to remove them. Also check your uppipes for leaks. It is a good time top upgrade or repair them while the turbo is out.
Be sure to soak the clamps with PB Blaster or other penetrating oil beforehand to make life easier when trying to remove them. Also check your uppipes for leaks. It is a good time top upgrade or repair them while the turbo is out.
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Down pipe is disconnected what clamp are you referring to? I checked the up pipes were they go into the colecter or what ever it is they arnt leaking yet next year when I order my 38R I'm going to upgrade those would they be leaking there or down by the manifolds ? Like I sed though I'm a noob when it comes to newer trucks an diesels any special tools I'm goin to need ?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Damon (South East Texas)
Leaks are usually seen as soot around the donut gasket area where the uppipes connect to the baby's butt flanges. The clamp, I'm referring to, is the one that holds the baby's butt to the collector flange on the exhaust housing. It is hard to see as it is behind the turbo near the firewall. The T bolt is facing the driver's side. After loosening this bolt, you will need to try to separate the clamp at it parting line at the top with a long screwdriver or prybar.
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Is that one three parts to like the down pipe ? And what is all needed to delete this valve cause I don't pull nothing yet and its pretty flat around here and off topic how do I get the fuel bowl out of the way if I can't get the hpop apart with it in the truck is it hard to do ?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Payson, AZ
You can't replace the HPOP rear plate o-ring without removing the HPOP. That rear plate is a very uncommon spot for the HPOP to leak, but a good spot for an HPOP leak to collect. Check the outlet fittings and the so called non-serviceable plug for leaks. Guzzle has o-rings and instructions at this LINK. Look for HPOP o-rings and non-serviceable plug repair.
Also the large gasket between the front cover and the front of HPOP can leak and the oil will run along the bottom of the HPOP and drip off the back. It looks like a rear plate leak but isn't.
Also the large gasket between the front cover and the front of HPOP can leak and the oil will run along the bottom of the HPOP and drip off the back. It looks like a rear plate leak but isn't.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Payson, AZ
Not difficult but can be time consuming the first time. There are downloadable PDF instructions at this LINK.
You will have to remove fuel bowl so get some fuel line sleeves and you might as well do the fuel drain o-rings while the fuel bowl is off.
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What are the fuel sleeves and where can I get them ?
How do I delete the ebpv and what am I going to need to do that to ?
Thanks for helping me guys I'm slowly learning there's a lot of info on this site and I really appreciate all the help I need it
How do I delete the ebpv and what am I going to need to do that to ?
Thanks for helping me guys I'm slowly learning there's a lot of info on this site and I really appreciate all the help I need it
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Are there any mods to do to the fuel bowl or any thing so far on this oil leak project I have done the foil delete the ccv mod hpx will be going in. ocr. 6637. Ic boots
Now that I have to call and order more parts I will also get the frx and gauges so I will be posting lots of pics once I'm putting everything back in any other stuff I should be doing also that I'm over looking ?
I will also be posting some more help me I'm stuck threads like this one
Now that I have to call and order more parts I will also get the frx and gauges so I will be posting lots of pics once I'm putting everything back in any other stuff I should be doing also that I'm over looking ?
I will also be posting some more help me I'm stuck threads like this one
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
to gut the flapper..look inside the outlet for 2 rivits..grind them down so you can pull the flapper off...on the side of the rod where the arm in pedestal hooks to open and close the flapper there is a tiny snap ring..pull the snap ring out...then grab the rod and it should slide right out.. then plug both ends where the rod went though with 3/4 freeze plugs..I should be doing this today for another member here if im feeling good..if you can wait ill post up some pix for you..
here is a video for the pedestal delete
Turbo :: Gut and Plug video by MazdaMartinb4k - Photobucket
sleeves for the fuel lines..get 2 sets and do both ends of both feed lines..i found if you start moveing these lines they start leaking at the heads..
Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
fuel inlet ..line feeding the bowl
Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
return from the bowl going to the tank
Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
here is a video for the pedestal delete
Turbo :: Gut and Plug video by MazdaMartinb4k - Photobucket
sleeves for the fuel lines..get 2 sets and do both ends of both feed lines..i found if you start moveing these lines they start leaking at the heads..
Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
fuel inlet ..line feeding the bowl
Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
return from the bowl going to the tank
Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
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From: Hartford, WI
I live in the southern part and I can't say I miss the thing at all. I currently have the van turbo and the pedestal that works for it with NO EBPV. Why? I had a hell of a time with the EBPV. It leaked, rebuilt it and it still leaked because the bore was scored, changed the whole thing and it still leaked because the rebuilt unit was leaky. 
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to gut the flapper..look inside the outlet for 2 rivits..grind them down so you can pull the flapper off...on the side of the rod where the arm in pedestal hooks to open and close the flapper there is a tiny snap ring..pull the snap ring out...then grab the rod and it should slide right out.. then plug both ends where the rod went though with 3/4 freeze plugs..I should be doing this today for another member here if im feeling good..if you can wait ill post up some pix for you]