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HELP! A.C. suddenly quit today!

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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 10:35 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by bdrummonds
I just replaced my compressor clutch last friday, and another buddies the week before.
the air gap between the clutch plate and pulley should be .025 to .030. the clutch plate is held on by one single 8mm bolt, remove bolt, slide clutch plate off compressor shaft, turn plate over and remove shim inside, replace with a thinner shim. Dont be suprised when you pull the compressor plate off and find that the plate, and the pulley have become grooved from use. You may find that you want to replace the whole clutch assembly, no problem, its about $100 from your local big box auto store, and comes with a new clutch plate, new pulley,bag of shims snap ring, new clutch plate bolt and a new electromagnet actuator. You will need a three jaw puller, and a pair of snap ring pliers to do this. Release serp belt tension, after you have removed the clutch plate, you will see a snap ring holding the pulley onto the compressor housing, remove the snap ring, use three jaw puller to remove the pulley, and then remove the old electromagnet with the puller. use a little lube on the inside of the new magnet, and get it started ont he housing by hand, use a rubber mallet to seat the magnet on housing. do the same for the pulley, but make sure you have it seated all the way and the snap ring groove is visible all hte way around the housing. install new snap ring, spin pulley to make sure it is aligned and running true. start with the largest shim in the bag, and place clutch plate on pulley. sheck airgap between pulley and plate. is it .025 to.030? if so put the bolt in and tighten, if not try a smaller shim from the bag. reinstall serp belt, start truck and turn A/C on and enjoy cool comfort.

I still have my old compressor clutch in the shop, and will take some pics tomorrow to go with this little write up.
Brandon- I have a new pulley assy, new magnet assy, and new plate from Ed. I did not get any new shims. Am I going to be able to re-use the shims? I'm guessing yes but...
 
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 02:57 PM
  #47  
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Start by re-using the existing shim. You may find that you need to adjust what you have, but that's easily done in just a few minutes after you get the proper shim kit.

For anyone interested, I finally decided to put the procedure to re-set the air gap on my website:
http://springerpop.net/F350/air_gap.html

Pop
 
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 04:10 PM
  #48  
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Thanks Pop! I found the little tiny washer like thing in the old plate. I guess that's the shim... Stewart came up and we knocked it out. I measured it and it's about .031 or so now. It's FREEZING again in my truck now. Even Stewart commented on how cold it worked. Mine has the AC vacuum switch mod done and has never had a bit of extra refrigerant added.

Special thanks to Stewart for coming down to "Man-Town" and helping out. We've already begun planning for a get together/mod day. I've got room to work on about 30 trucks with maybe only 10 on pavement. Stewart's gonna be getting some new AC clutch parts as well. His look almost as bad as mine but his gap was like .043 and still works for now.

Ready for summer camping trips now!
 
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #49  
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I did mine the other night, exactly as Pop described it. Mine had a .050 gap. There was only one shim, about .030 in it. I removed it. I noticed there was some grooving in my plates, as well. I guess when the gap gets too big again, I'll have to replace the clutch plates.
It doesn't cut out now and not come back on.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 10:31 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Fat Diesel
Thanks Pop! I found the little tiny washer like thing in the old plate. I guess that's the shim... Stewart came up and we knocked it out. I measured it and it's about .031 or so now. It's FREEZING again in my truck now. Even Stewart commented on how cold it worked. Mine has the AC vacuum switch mod done and has never had a bit of extra refrigerant added.

Special thanks to Stewart for coming down to "Man-Town" and helping out. We've already begun planning for a get together/mod day. I've got room to work on about 30 trucks with maybe only 10 on pavement. Stewart's gonna be getting some new AC clutch parts as well. His look almost as bad as mine but his gap was like .043 and still works for now.

Ready for summer camping trips now!
Yep! You got a nice spread up there Andy! I gotta call Nolan and put a bug in his ear since he has a diesel club. I already called Pete.

On the way home I put my AC on max, highest blower setting, coldest temp setting.....it sux compared to yours! After feeling your setup with the bypass, I think I might be ordering the Excursion OEM setup and modding my AC!

Stewart
 
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:14 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Yep! You got a nice spread up there Andy! I gotta call Nolan and put a bug in his ear since he has a diesel club. I already called Pete.

On the way home I put my AC on max, highest blower setting, coldest temp setting.....it sux compared to yours! After feeling your setup with the bypass, I think I might be ordering the Excursion OEM setup and modding my AC!

Stewart
OK, are you talking about modding the SD or the EX? If it's the SD please elaborate.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:19 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Yep! You got a nice spread up there Andy! I gotta call Nolan and put a bug in his ear since he has a diesel club. I already called Pete.

On the way home I put my AC on max, highest blower setting, coldest temp setting.....it sux compared to yours! After feeling your setup with the bypass, I think I might be ordering the Excursion OEM setup and modding my AC!

Stewart
Originally Posted by puller45
OK, are you talking about modding the SD or the EX? If it's the SD please elaborate.
Here's a link to my Photobucket Colder AC Mod album for my SD. LINK
 
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:24 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Waynenap
I did mine the other night, exactly as Pop described it. Mine had a .050 gap. There was only one shim, about .030 in it. I removed it. I noticed there was some grooving in my plates, as well. I guess when the gap gets too big again, I'll have to replace the clutch plates.
It doesn't cut out now and not come back on.
Wayne,

Getting ready for summer, I re-did my own air gap today.

I, too, took out all of the remaining shims, and next time it'll be a new clutch.

Pop
 
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:29 PM
  #54  
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Pop,
How long do you think it's good for?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:59 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
Here's a link to my Photobucket Colder AC Mod album for my SD. LINK
You ARE the man!! that's the coolest (no pun) looking setup for this mod I have seen. I'll be at the stealership Monday to buy/order the valve (the parts man treats me good) Thanks Robin.


EDIT; Sorry for the hijack
 

Last edited by puller45; Jun 12, 2010 at 12:06 AM. Reason: hijack
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 12:10 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Waynenap
Pop,
How long do you think it's good for?
At least four hot, long summers. Just a guess.

However, it took a long while to wear out to where it is. What, eight years?

So, maybe eight more?

Pop
 
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 12:25 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by puller45
You ARE the man!! that's the coolest (no pun) looking setup for this mod I have seen. I'll be at the stealership Monday to buy/order the valve (the parts man treats me good) Thanks Robin.


EDIT; Sorry for the hijack
My buddy at the local dealership treats me good as well. That's why I used an OEM Ranger valve.

When it starts turning cold I unplug the vac line at the valve and plug it and put a cap on valve vac port to return HVAC to normal operation.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 12:49 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
My buddy at the local dealership treats me good as well. That's why I used an OEM Ranger valve.

When it starts turning cold I unplug the vac line at the valve and plug it and put a cap on valve vac port to return HVAC to normal operation.
Robin, the 7.3L Excursions already have the bypass on them from the factory. Any reason you didn't use that setup?

Stewart
 
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 01:19 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Robin, the 7.3L Excursions already have the bypass on them from the factory. Any reason you didn't use that setup? Stewart
Stewart,

I believe that OEM valve is what Bob Riley was selling a few years ago when I did mine.

I'm just not sure I put it in the EX's location. It sits right above my AIH relay, just aft of the "Powerstroke" cover. Where is it on your EX?



Pop
 
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 02:44 AM
  #60  
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Tucked back on the passenger side, right by the heater hoses, just forward of the firewall, above the valve cover.

Stewart
 
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