The switch screws on to a schrader type A/C valve.Unscrew it the valve seals A 2 minute fix

 

Gothca Ray I wasnt sure what type of valve they had on these lines. Maybe they were worried about the schrader valve not holding. Who knows with the dealership.

 

There was no reason to remove the refrigerant, if they did.
I would go ask the dealer to explain why the fee was charged.
You know about the valve. It is there for this reason, to replace the pressure switch with causing environmental damage.

 

What is the part number for that switch?

My a/c seems to cycle on and off....will blow cold for a while and then start blowing hot. doesn't sem like the clutch is binding....seems like theres no power getting to it....was thinking maybe it was this switch.

What confuses me it when the a/c starts blowing hot.....i can run the rpm's up and it will start blowing cold again....

any body got any clues?

 

Sure. Pretty common. Look here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4464164

Pop

 

would this also cause no electrical to be supplied.....i had a guy check it and traced it as an electrical problem and after looking at the wiring diagrams suspected the ecm?

i will trust you and give this a shot before throwing parts at it.....

I may be able to get to it this weekend...if i do I'll let you know the results.

 

Looks like this switch was on the silver canister. The whatchamacallit................................... .........dryer I think?

 

Just a Note Gents,

The tech has to drain the system to troubleshoot the Compressor.

In order to inspect the Orifice Tube in the Compressor you need to drain the system.
If the Tube is Very clogged with small metal filings it tells you your Compressor is about to die. If the Orfice Tube is clogged a little from mold/sediment and normal conditions they usually just replace it or some "Cheap Shops will Blow-It-Out" with compressed air. It's a $4.21 part over at Rockauto dot com so it must cost Ford 1.00. They should replace the Orifice tube every time the System is Serviced (Full Recovery/Drained).
MOTORCRAFT Part # YG346 More Info {#F5UH19D990AA, F5UZ19D990AB}

At Rockauto there are 10 different Orifice Tubes for the F350 ranging from .98 cents for one to 46.79 for the AC Delco.

They all pretty much do the same thing and are the size of a large fountain pen.
I wanted to add, when you look at the body of the Tube there is a fine mesh screen that catch's the sediment inside the tube.

What I like about RockAuto's parts website is they show photos of each part from all available manufactures, and corresponding parts in a system.

The Orifice Tube should be replaced each time a A/C System is Emptied for service. The part is cheap enough it's just smart to install a new one. And a Minty Clean one gives you Ice Cold Air.

So if they did not change the Orifice tube The Service Manager may say, "The Tech said Tube was clean, like new!" I can hear him now...

Every Good A/C Tech will replace the Tube Every Time it's Drained.

All the best,
Russ

I just wanted to tell you about this so you will have a little more info when you go to talk about it.

 

may be too soon to say for sure but it seems my problem is corrected. took one washer out (not sure if there was another) and the gap is a little over.020. I did it on saturday at the campground and let it idle for about ten minutes and it never blew hot. drove it a little yesterday and some today and no hot air yet...

 

How grooved was the pulley on the compressor? A new one is machined flat like a rotor. If you saw what appeared to be deep grooves in the pulley then you will soon need a new compressor clutch kit. You MAY make it through the summer in AL by just removing the shim, but, dont be suprised if you have to spend the $100 and replace the clutch by labor day.... It is all of a 30 minute job, and I ve done it to three trucks this spring, if you need help just let me know.

 

On a 7.3, where the compressor is up on top, if you don't also change the coil, the job could take as little as ten minutes, including setting the air gap.

The last one I did was a V-10, and it needed the degas bottle removed for enough working room, and it took a while longer to mess with the coolant. That compressor is lower on the engine.

Still not a bad job, even if you have to do the whole Magilla....

Pop

 

You are correct Pop, all the kits I have bought this year have had a new coil included with them, and I just hate not using new parts when they come in the box.

I usually move the degas bottle out of the way also, its much easier to get a three jaw puller in there with the bottle to the side.

I had to do my wifes Expedition back in April and the compressor is on the bottom pax side of the engine. No fun laying on your back, for such a simple job.

 

Yup! That's where the V-10 SuperDutys are, as well.

And that's how you do 'em, too. On your back!

Pop

 

roughly how often should the clutch cycle? i dont think mine is.

 

Due to our past few days of 95 to 97*, not that often. easy way to check is to start truck, turn ac to max, and look at the clutch, check to see that it is engaged, turn ac off, and check to see if clutch disengages. If clutch disengages when ac is in off position, then you have enough air gap, if clutch does not disengage in off position, then you need more gap.