HELP! A.C. suddenly quit today!
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 1
From: Opelika, AL
Due to our past few days of 95 to 97*, not that often. easy way to check is to start truck, turn ac to max, and look at the clutch, check to see that it is engaged, turn ac off, and check to see if clutch disengages. If clutch disengages when ac is in off position, then you have enough air gap, if clutch does not disengage in off position, then you need more gap.
yep tried that yesterday and it does disengage in off....but i was a little worried because i let it idle for maybe 5 minutes on max ac and it never cycled....not sure if it's cycling while driving...im not gonna try to test that one
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
I think I need to replace my compressor clutch because my AC squeals like a stuck pig, and as you know, pictures are always a help when doing a job for the first time.
Stewart
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
How grooved was the pulley on the compressor? A new one is machined flat like a rotor. If you saw what appeared to be deep grooves in the pulley then you will soon need a new compressor clutch kit. You MAY make it through the summer in AL by just removing the shim, but, dont be suprised if you have to spend the $100 and replace the clutch by labor day.... It is all of a 30 minute job, and I ve done it to three trucks this spring, if you need help just let me know.
Economic stimulus on the way to Ed.
Made HUGE progress by flushing coolant and replacing fan clutch over the weekend.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
How much trouble did the pulley/clutch assembly give you?
Stewart
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
I'll let you know when I get the parts from Ed. I read the post where SpringerPop described the gap and mine is pretty bad- around .060. Was going to just re-shim but then read what Brandon had to say about the grooves and just bolted that plate right back on until the parts arrive. The trick about turning the key on and the AC on to use the electro-magnet to hold the plate was great. I would have replied to that post Pop, but the OP still has one post... couldn't do it...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
I could have just eye-balled it. I spent 4 years as a precision machinist and could estimate those measurements within a few thou. However I pulled out my pin-gauge set. Unfortunately it starts at .061 and that pin was just ever so slightly too large to put in. So I grabbed a feeler gauge set from the toolbox and put the .024 and .025 back to back for a .049 and it was pretty sloppy so I got lazy and estimated it to be about .058 or so...
If you don't have a set of pin gauges or feeler gauges, you can grind a piece of steel down to where it will just slide in and measure it with a caliper or micrometer. If you don't have either of those we could probably work up a stack of coins that *approximate* the thickness...
I was going to pull out a shim but saw the grooves and emailed Ed.
I'll shoot some pics when I R&R the clutch assy.
If you don't have a set of pin gauges or feeler gauges, you can grind a piece of steel down to where it will just slide in and measure it with a caliper or micrometer. If you don't have either of those we could probably work up a stack of coins that *approximate* the thickness...
I was going to pull out a shim but saw the grooves and emailed Ed.
I'll shoot some pics when I R&R the clutch assy.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
That's an eight millimeter head on that bolt. A quarter-inch drive ratchet and 8mm socket will do the job nicely.
The threads are conventional, right-hand threads. Nothing fancy. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.
If you don't have it, now would be a real good time to pick up a metric 1/4" drive socket set. You'll use it more than you realize.
Pop
The threads are conventional, right-hand threads. Nothing fancy. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.
If you don't have it, now would be a real good time to pick up a metric 1/4" drive socket set. You'll use it more than you realize.
Pop
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 756
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix Az
I can't get a 3/8 ratchet with a 1/4" adapter and socket in between the expansion tank and the bolt. I tried different wrenches and the 5/16 12 pt. was the best fit. I did try the 8mm socket and it fit perfect it seemed. And when I tried to put the box end on it, it was sloppy.
Is this a job that shouldn't be done with the tank in place?
I guess I'll just have to buy a new ratchet.
Is this a job that shouldn't be done with the tank in place?
I guess I'll just have to buy a new ratchet.
Last edited by Waynenap; Jun 8, 2010 at 05:59 PM. Reason: clarify point
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
No need to remove the expansion tank unless your tools cause you to have to.
There's only one good way to have those proper tools, and that means a trip to the man-store.
While taking this photo, I noticed my air gap has grown a little wider in the last couple of years since I last shimmed it.
Pop
There's only one good way to have those proper tools, and that means a trip to the man-store.
While taking this photo, I noticed my air gap has grown a little wider in the last couple of years since I last shimmed it.
Pop
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Wayne,
I sure would try removing .030" or so from the shim that's in there before I would spend the bucks for a new one. Orders of magnitude cheaper, dirt simple to do, and will last virtually as long.
Just try to have about .020" air gap when you're done.
First measure the air gap per the photo above. "Feeler" gauges are the best for this.
Then, begin by NOT starting the engine, but turning the key ON and also the A/C ON. That will draw in the clutch to enable the bolt to be removed. Shut off the key once the bolt is loosened.
Just take that bolt out (no refrigerant will leak out or anything), and pull the plate forward on its splines. Note how tight the bolt was (it wasn't). Find the shim or shims. It/they will either still be on the end of the compressor shaft or down inside the splines. Remove enough thickness to reduce the air gap to the desired .020" when it's all put back together.
Note that a little blue LocTite on the bolt's threads wouldn't hurt on final re-assembly. It's just so you don't have to worry about over-tightening the bolt.
Pop
I sure would try removing .030" or so from the shim that's in there before I would spend the bucks for a new one. Orders of magnitude cheaper, dirt simple to do, and will last virtually as long.
Just try to have about .020" air gap when you're done.
First measure the air gap per the photo above. "Feeler" gauges are the best for this.
Then, begin by NOT starting the engine, but turning the key ON and also the A/C ON. That will draw in the clutch to enable the bolt to be removed. Shut off the key once the bolt is loosened.
Just take that bolt out (no refrigerant will leak out or anything), and pull the plate forward on its splines. Note how tight the bolt was (it wasn't). Find the shim or shims. It/they will either still be on the end of the compressor shaft or down inside the splines. Remove enough thickness to reduce the air gap to the desired .020" when it's all put back together.
Note that a little blue LocTite on the bolt's threads wouldn't hurt on final re-assembly. It's just so you don't have to worry about over-tightening the bolt.
Pop