351w roller price comparison
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351w roller price comparison
hey guys. Im in the process of planning my 1956 f100 351w stroker build.
I wanted to know where i can find information on which Year block/donor motor to get. I want a roller so i think 95+ for 351. Is any peticular year stronger/ better? How much would it cost in comparison to convert an older block to roller? would this be stronger?
I have looked at solid and hydraulic rollers and i am going to Drive this alot so im going hydraulic.
My next question is how much power can i make for $2000, $3000, $4500?
Remember this will be driven alot so must me dependable.
Thanks
Stephen
I wanted to know where i can find information on which Year block/donor motor to get. I want a roller so i think 95+ for 351. Is any peticular year stronger/ better? How much would it cost in comparison to convert an older block to roller? would this be stronger?
I have looked at solid and hydraulic rollers and i am going to Drive this alot so im going hydraulic.
My next question is how much power can i make for $2000, $3000, $4500?
Remember this will be driven alot so must me dependable.
Thanks
Stephen
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
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From: British Columbia
351 Roller block
The roller cam actually is found in 1994 and up vehicles, plus some very late production 1993.
However, Lightnings continued to use a flat tappet cam in a roller-ready block for those years.
The certain way to check is by looking for the F4TE casting number prefix on the cylinder block, just above the starter motor. This casting number is only found on roller cam type cylinder blocks.
All these F4TE blocks are the same. Their strength is similar to the early 70s and up 351W blocks. Expect to pay more for a roller block than regular type if the seller knows what it is, but I picked up a rebuilder for $200 after about a year of searching locally. I think I got a very good deal.
It's generally considered cheaper and better to start with a roller block than retrofit an earlier one, especially if you don't already have money invested in an early flat tappet engine.
One issue with the later 351W block is that the clutch equalizer ball stud hole on the left rear of the block isn't tapped. This is sometimes necessary with early clutch or auto trans linkages in stock type applications.
However, Lightnings continued to use a flat tappet cam in a roller-ready block for those years.
The certain way to check is by looking for the F4TE casting number prefix on the cylinder block, just above the starter motor. This casting number is only found on roller cam type cylinder blocks.
All these F4TE blocks are the same. Their strength is similar to the early 70s and up 351W blocks. Expect to pay more for a roller block than regular type if the seller knows what it is, but I picked up a rebuilder for $200 after about a year of searching locally. I think I got a very good deal.
It's generally considered cheaper and better to start with a roller block than retrofit an earlier one, especially if you don't already have money invested in an early flat tappet engine.
One issue with the later 351W block is that the clutch equalizer ball stud hole on the left rear of the block isn't tapped. This is sometimes necessary with early clutch or auto trans linkages in stock type applications.
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thanks. so i need to start looking for a 94+ donor motor with the F4TE stamping above the starter.
1. What vehicles should i start looking into? f150, bronco, what else?
2. Just want to make sure, these newer blocks are practically jsut as strong as the older ones, Correct?
3. What HP and TQ will these rollor block handle safely?
4. As far as Transmissions go, I want to Run a 5 or 6 speed. What would you recommend? what are my options? will i have to tap that clutch equalizer ball stud hole if i use a t-5 or something newer?
1. What vehicles should i start looking into? f150, bronco, what else?
2. Just want to make sure, these newer blocks are practically jsut as strong as the older ones, Correct?
3. What HP and TQ will these rollor block handle safely?
4. As far as Transmissions go, I want to Run a 5 or 6 speed. What would you recommend? what are my options? will i have to tap that clutch equalizer ball stud hole if i use a t-5 or something newer?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
These motors can be found in all F and E series trucks.
Any 5.8 block will safely handle upwards of 750hp with a forged and balanced rotating assembly, and even the stock cast bottom end is good for 400+ hp.
And a stroker will easily exceed the TQ handling capacity of a T5 so you should be looking at a T56 or ZF IMO.
Any 5.8 block will safely handle upwards of 750hp with a forged and balanced rotating assembly, and even the stock cast bottom end is good for 400+ hp.
And a stroker will easily exceed the TQ handling capacity of a T5 so you should be looking at a T56 or ZF IMO.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Earth
The $64 dollar question is what do you want from the engine? When you say "drive a lot" do you mean commute to work every day or out every weekend pushing the go pedal through the floor?
There's places you can save money depending on what you're trying to accomplish. But if you're determined to build a stroker you'll spend $2,000 on the rotating assembly and block prep alone.
Either way, good heads are ~$1,600, roller cam and lifters ~$400, carb and intake ~$750, ignition ~$400, and in 10% for gaskets, misc., etc....
You'll spend $6,000 before you need to worry about the block. Big hp means big rpm and durability doesn't come cheap.
As far as trannies, check out the TKO500/600. They're rated for either 500 or 600 lb/ft of torque. I'd run a cable or hydraulic clutch, no worries with tapping the block. You just need to get the correct bellhousing. The ZF is a crusher, but it shifts like a truck. The TKO is nice, I've got one in my Mustang.
There's places you can save money depending on what you're trying to accomplish. But if you're determined to build a stroker you'll spend $2,000 on the rotating assembly and block prep alone.
Either way, good heads are ~$1,600, roller cam and lifters ~$400, carb and intake ~$750, ignition ~$400, and in 10% for gaskets, misc., etc....
You'll spend $6,000 before you need to worry about the block. Big hp means big rpm and durability doesn't come cheap.
As far as trannies, check out the TKO500/600. They're rated for either 500 or 600 lb/ft of torque. I'd run a cable or hydraulic clutch, no worries with tapping the block. You just need to get the correct bellhousing. The ZF is a crusher, but it shifts like a truck. The TKO is nice, I've got one in my Mustang.
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hey. just had a thought. Can these blocks really handle 750hp with only two bolt mains. or are they 4 bolt?
I was also thinking. Is hydrolic rollers really the best way to go. Wouldnt they lead to high rpm floating valves?
What other options do i have for a valve train besides solid rollers?
Im kinda going back to the begining on the valve situation.
I was also thinking. Is hydrolic rollers really the best way to go. Wouldnt they lead to high rpm floating valves?
What other options do i have for a valve train besides solid rollers?
Im kinda going back to the begining on the valve situation.
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From: Earth
Hydraulic rollers are good for 7,000 rpm with the right springs.
They're two bolt mains, but beefy. If you're worried slap on a girdle and the sides of the block will let go before the bottom end.
They're two bolt mains, but beefy. If you're worried slap on a girdle and the sides of the block will let go before the bottom end.
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what specifically should i look for with springs? Will they still not float?
How much will this motor weigh?
Are the newer motors just as strong as the older?
How much will this motor weigh?
Are the newer motors just as strong as the older?
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From: Earth
Unless you're planning on measuring your engine life in hours the valves are going to float eventually. You can run higher spring rates with a roller because there's minimal friction on the cam lobe.
If you're planning to run a stroked 351 till the valves float regularly your budget starts around $7,000. If you're serious about an engine that might crater a stock block then you need to start with a Dart or FRPP block. Now you're in the $10,000 range.
Google ford crate engines, there are plenty of folks out there who post their dyno numbers for you to see.
Dressed out with aluminum heads will weigh about 550lbs.
If you're planning to run a stroked 351 till the valves float regularly your budget starts around $7,000. If you're serious about an engine that might crater a stock block then you need to start with a Dart or FRPP block. Now you're in the $10,000 range.
Google ford crate engines, there are plenty of folks out there who post their dyno numbers for you to see.
Dressed out with aluminum heads will weigh about 550lbs.
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well BaronVonAutomatc
if this is the case than your saying i dhouldnt really worry about floating.
From what you are saying i am getting the feeling that the minimal floating that does occur will not affect the proformance to much.
Do i under stand you corretly?
if this is the case than your saying i dhouldnt really worry about floating.
From what you are saying i am getting the feeling that the minimal floating that does occur will not affect the proformance to much.
Do i under stand you corretly?
Postmaster
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From: Earth
It depends. Valve float is only a problem when you're winding an engine past the cam and springs' designed rpm range.
What are you planning to do with the truck and engine? In the first post you talk about reliability, then you're asking about floating the valves and cratering the block. Reliability and big power numbers aren't mutually exclusive but it does cost substantially more for an engine built for lots of both.
What are you planning to do with the truck and engine? In the first post you talk about reliability, then you're asking about floating the valves and cratering the block. Reliability and big power numbers aren't mutually exclusive but it does cost substantially more for an engine built for lots of both.
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