Talyn, I have the 4.10's. My understanding of the D66 is slightly bigger wheels on a stock housing that equals a stock turbo with a 1.0 housing. Please correct me if I'm wrong. It might not be my tunes, I'm at a complete loss as to what the cause is for the high EGT's. Nothing else has been changed except for a oil cooler I added that increased my oil pressure ten pounds across the board. Plus, I need to retighten the up pipes to stop a small leak on the brass donuts that I got from Beans.

 

i don't think it would equate to a stock turbo with a smaller housing. i'm not sure if they change the exhaust housing or if they even use a larger exhaust wheel either, but i know they machine the compressor housing and install a larger compressor wheel for more air flow.

 

Well, going by what you said, bigger and bigger with less fuel = not as hot.
With an exhaust leak, you probably are not spooling the turbo very good, thus creating more heat from compression.

I'd get them doughnuts retorqued and see what changes.

 

Glenn (oldbird1965), if you go with Beans programs, let me know how they do. I too have similar troubles. I got a D66 and went out towing my 14K trailer, and my EGT's were worse. Probably up 200 or so. I seldom had to back out of the trottle before the D66, now I have to watch the gauge closely. I sent back the D66 and they found nothing wrong. Although Matt at Beans said I shouldn't have to change my programming, thats all he can think of to do at this point. I currently have a 4 position TS Performance chip programmed by BTS. I'm torn between calling BTS and letting him change the tunes (sort of pot luck I guess) or buying Beans tunes.

 

Hey, welcome to FTE! So before the D66 your egts were fine but now with the D66 your egts are not good? Am i reading that correctly? And do you have an intercooler?
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After the BUT is what I read, I just couldn't explain it. Doesn't more air flow equal lower EGT's? The up pipe leak is small, I wouldn't think that it would kill my mountain runs as bad as it did. A bunch of mods equal big steps forward, I go for the kill to finish off my pulling machine and I take a giant step backward!! Oh well, with all this help I'll get it figured out. How come no one comments on the oil cooler and more oil pressure?? Maybe I should disable that and see what happens.

William, I'm spooling fine and can hit 30psi, that's another reason I'm a little perplexed. But, your 100% correct, I need to tighten up the up pipes. My problem is getting at them. Matt at Beans told me to use a stubby wrench on three of the bolts and a wobble 1/4" extension on one of them. He didn't explain which one to use the 1/4 on but did say to remove the DP. So, I'll figure out this 'stubby' wrench (sawed off wrench I guess) and drop down a HOT DP (fun) and try to 'get it done'. Any guidance would be great. I put them together by 1/4" extensions from below but now that the up pipes are connected to the exhaust manifolds there is no room for the extensions, that I can see.

 

the reason we aren't talking about your oil cooler is b/c it shouldn't raise or lower EGT's either, UNLESS it is effecting your HPO in such a way that your actually getting less ICP. what is your ICP like in your tow program when your pulling these grades as the EGT's start climbing faster?? you should be seeing around 2600-3000psi in the tow tune. less ICP will raise the EGT's more as well due to lower injection pressures and less atomization. take a look at ICP and IPR duty cycle in % and let us know what it's like, but it should be all good. other than that the starting place is going to be fix the exhaust leak and build a boost leak detector and look for boost leaks. if you even have 1 boost leak EGT's are going up no matter what and i would almost say that the intake plenums are a good place to look for boost leaks. LOL

ON EDIT: What were your boost pressures before the D66 install and after Glenn???

 

Ford and James, I didn't see your posts before I just posted. Ford, I don't know what to do about a reburn, I'll have to think about it. I'm not at all happy about you having problems but its sort of nice to hear that I'm not crazy and my eyes on the EGT gauge is not lying to me. Wow, you took the turbo back off and sent it back for them to check it out? Amazing effort and welcome to FTE, when I figure this thing out I'll get ahold of you. James, yes I have a intercooler and you are reading this correctly about the EGT's. My stock turbo, so far, was much better controling EGT's. Makes me wonder how many complaints Beans are getting about the D66.

 

James, thanks for the welcome. Yes, like Glenn, my EGT's seem to have gotten worse with the D66. Matt says he never hears this. I was surprised to run across Glenns post of a similar experience. I've done checks for air leaks, etc. All seems good. Truck runs good while not towing. I'm seeing the same boost levels as before with minimal "seat of the pants" HP gains afterwards.

Sorry, trying to figure out the signature line, but haven't so far.

1997 F250 HD, 4X4 Ext Cab, BTS Auto Transmission, 4.10 rear, Baby Swamp injectors, Banks intercooler, Banks exhaust, HPX crossover hose, TS Performance 4 pos. chip (BTS programming), Tymar intake. Half case of Puss-N-Boots for sale.

 

I think you have to have a certain amount of posts before you can have a sig line.
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Wow, I can't post fast enough! Travis, my boost pressures are about the same and I read that they would be. I was so busy on this trip watching the EGT's that I didn't check the scan gauge. What you say makes me want to hook up to the 5th wheel and go for a ride. Trouble is, its parked and going to stay here for another month before we move on. I want to get this figured out before my next trip. I will tighten bolts, make or buy a leak detector and maybe disable the oil cooler. You guys are great, keep it coming, your faster on the key board then I am!!

 

10 or 15 for a sig, cannot recal.

Glenn, I was thinking in the same way you were at one time with the d66 turbo, and Honestly, I decided to never get it and look for some other solution, even if its an oversized turbo and an injector upgrade to get it to spool.

My bitches are, the D66 isn't really to much of an upgrade, and its journal bearings.
While it is an upgrade, its not much of a change IMO. And the Journal Bearings is a no go for me.
I'd rather have a stocker with a ball bearing upgrade than the d66 which is just a tricked out stock turbo basically.

And yes, it should be cooler, but leaks do strange things.

I doubt you'd need a reburn for d66, from my reading, you dont. I asked Jim about live tuning just on stage 1's, and even if i got an IC and a d66 upgrade and he said they were not really necessary.

And travis really has the main point on heat there. if your duty cycle is killing your performance, you'll get lots of heat, poor atomization = heat and poor performance.
If your hitting first to get up a grade, something doesn't seem right to me.

 

Travis is slow glenn. I'm the one you gotta watch for on the typing. =)

I hope you can figure this out. It really sucks to hear upgrades go bad.

 

Glenn you could always go out in your tow tune and get on it real good and see what it does, then drag it down with the brakes slowly giving it more throttle as you give it more brakes to put a good load on the engine to see if your IPR duty cycle is getting up to 50% or more. LoL. my thoughts keep staying directly related to air though. you have a fairly new adrenaline pump and it was fine before right???

build your own boost leak detector. they are not worth more than like $30. you can get all the parts from Lowes, Home Depot, Tractor Supply or any other place like them that has PVC pipe, PVC caps, valve stems, PVC pipe glue, and a 3"x3" sewer boot. haha. that's all it takes pretty much then the air compressor to feed air into it to pressurize the system and find leaks.

 

Been there - Found only a slight leak at an intercooler boot. Fixed that before another tow - no difference.

Frustrating to spend money on an improvement and go backwards!