Just replaced the upper and lower lock actuator assemblies in the steering column of my 1992 F250 with tilt. Mechanically it was an easy project if you take your time. The steering lock gear was installed with the slot at approximately the 7 o'clock position and the corresponding slot in the Bearing, when rotated 90 degrees, locked and installed, aligned with the slot in the steering lock gear.

When I installed the ignition switch, I am 99% sure that the hole in the lower lock actuator assembly aligned with the alignment mark on the Actuator Housing and that the pin on the ignition switch all mated perfectly.

The ignition works correctly in all positions; start, run, off, and accessory.

Problem is is that the brand new Die Hard battery was completely drained overnight. This leads me to believe that the rack might potentially be one tooth off on the steering lock gear. If this were the case, wouldn't the ignition stay on in some way.

What tests can I run to figure out which circuits are on when I believe that they should be off. Again, key in "off" position, electric windows have no power. Key in "accessory" position, electric windows work. Key at "start", truck starts and tumbler rotates as it should back to "run".

It seems that somehow, the timing of the system may be off by one tooth on the rack. Has anybody ever run into this problem. From my description can you tell if the rack needs to be moved one tooth forward or one tooth back or is there something else that I am missing?

 

So, maybe the question is, what is the first electric circuit that gets switched on almost immediately when the key is turned on slightly. Cant be too deep in the progress of the ignition switch assuming that later in its travel, it opens the circuits for electric windows etc but it must open a big enough circuit to drain the battery over nite.

If I know which circuit to test, I could adjust the ignition lock gear either one tooth forward or one tooth back to correctly time the ignition. The way it is set up now, I should be able to measure a current going through this circuit. When the ignition is timed correctly, no current would be measured.

I guess I could move the rack one tooth forward or backward on the gear but I still need to be able to test that circuit to see if the adjustment I made worked. Help me Mr. Wizard.

 

Positioning the ignition switch is very simple. When it's new, it comes with instructions and a pin that holds the ignition switch slider in the correct position. I can't remember exactly, but I believe the pin held the switch in the off position. So you make sure the key is in the off position, and then install the ignition switch into the rod coming from the top of the column, and bolt it down. Then pull the pin, and it's set. If you can't get the slotted mounting holes to line up so you can put the screws into the switch and bolt it down, then that would be a sign that something is off up in the column.

If you want to check for a drain, hook a testlight up like the picture below. If the light glows bright, you have a drain. Pull one fuse at a time till the light goes out. If one of the fuses makes the light go out, then that's your problem circuit. Make sure the domelight is off, or just keep shutting the door after your test, because the donelight circuit will be a drain and mess up your troubleshooting.

If you have a later model truck with the accessory delay feature(where you can play the radio for awhile with the key out) you need to wait for that to time out before you can do the drain test.

If you have any added accessories hooked directly to the battery or somewhere else that doesn't go through the fuse box, you will need to disconnect that to see if it's causing the drain.

If all else fails and you still have a drain, disconnect the alternator. Sometimes it can fail internally and still charge, but also cause a drain.