Welding the two frames together is not something I would suggest. Reason being, is that for one, you would have a lot of torching or cutting to do to get through that chassis. Its stout and dense stuff to cut through. These chassis take the brute end of punishment on so many levels, so it stands as to why they are built the way they are.

Second.. the integrity of the frame would be compromised, and thats not something you want to do, especially on a truck. There is a reason the chassis is cut and forged into one piece frame rails. You cut the frame, you leave a new fracture point for fatigue and expansion points under stress to occur. Welding it back together is a whole other issue. I would venture to say the only way you guarentee a solid reconnect, is under X-ray.

Third and final.. Alignment. You have thrust alignment to deal with as well as wheel alignment. Once you seperate the frames, they will flex. To weld them back together and ensure true thrust alignment, you would need more computer assisted tools then what most of us have.

Someone here asked why I didnt cut the cross member out when I did the diesel swap, and use the diesel crossmember... same reason. Once you get into seperating the frame and sectioning it, you compromise the integrity of it, and I could just foresee problems down the road!

Hope that helps!

 

Hey Chris, do you have pics of your final front spring mounts? I'm interested to see what design you used...

 

Cutting and welding frames together can be done.

But not many people have the equipment to do it correctly.

When done correctly the frame will be double wall for several feet to either end past the cut point.
That will leave you with a frame that is stronger than it was before it was cut.
But that also means you have ot be able to bend a section of frame metal to fit exactly inside or outside of the existing frame channel.

Where you weld the pieces back together, the heat will fatigue the metal.
The weld won't break, but the metal to one side of the weld or the other will break.
That is where the double section of frame channel comes into play to distribute the stress away from the weld.

Done incorrectly, welding a frame makes it dangerous.

 

Exactly Dave! This is why I didnt go that route! This and the fact too that you really have to consider the "trueness" of the frame once you splice two together... I dont have the alignment tools to make sure that I have a true and accurate frame when done with cutting and welding it up.

I know that there are some really remarkable craftsmen here.. I dont think I would attempt it though! LOL!

 

Yeah, I'm not in that league either. I'll stick with bolt up stuff.

 

Hey Evan.. Didnt mean to pass ya by.. But I will get some pics up! I have been meaning too, just been special about getting it done, LOL!

Dave.. I am with you!

 

Thanks Chris. Just trying to figure out how I want to do mine when I get to it...

 

At one time I considered making an 86 F350 crew cab 2 wheel drive into a 4x4 using a D 60.

If you are going for any suspension lift after the swap, the easiest way would be with a reverse shackle kit.

And if you were going for less dollars, and have fabrication skills, it would not be that hard to make one yourself.

 

Thats the impression I get too Dave! I need to sit down and peak into one of these threads and write ups on that RSK! I might gain from that as well!

 

I don't want a big lift, so I think the 3.5" RSK would be perfect for the front of mine when I do it. Then just level out the rear and throw on some airbags for towing/hauling.

 

One thing I never understood was the desire for a level truck.

In stock form, they sit higher in the rear.
With the factory recommended load in the bed, the truck sits about level.

If the truck is level to start with, when you put the factory recommended weight in the back, now the truck looks overloaded.
Steering geometery is messed up.
And steering does suffer.

I guess if I never planned on hauling anything, then a level truck would be fine.
But then so would an all wheel drive car, which would also get much better fuel mileage.

Just an old guy that uses a truck as a truck rambling on here.

 

I would probably have it a couple inches higher in the rear end, but that's why I want airbags, to keep it level with a load or towing...

 

I have not really seen that level the truck statement here much yet, but I know down in the IIDI forum a couple years ago leveling the truck to get rid of the rear high rake was at least a once a week question.

I guess the 60's with all the big tires and air shocks on the rear of "drag race cars" has me very used to seeing the rear higher than the front on about everything.

 

I don't mind it being a little higher, just not too much.

 

On this whole project, I said I would find those front bracket pics and get them posted.. I know its been a while but here they are! This bracket definately gave it some lift, LOL!


The grade 8 bolts there are to hold the bracket in place as well as giving more stability, as the bracket was also welded to the frame.