Okay you hardcore builders out there, are there any bumper build threads out there.

Do you suggest black steel or galvinized?

Pics/builds can be with or without winch.

The again maybe I can do a 80s style large tube retrostyle bumper for my 1996 FSB.

 

Ever weld galvanized?

 

Not yet, can you enlighten me?
Dos and donʻts, tips.

 

makes ya sick, not so much a time

 

i just take a sanding disk to it or go out side on a decently windy day and burn it off.

 

I also have to modify a boat trailer, all of the new pieces are galvinized.
I did know about welding in an open/vented area.
What about wearing some kind of respirator?

 

I've done lots!!! And it sucks!!! My last job was installing galvinized brick angle on the side of a hospital. We pre ground everywhere that was to be welded with 60 grit sanding pads on a grinder. GHEY.

As for build threads I just finished welding mine together with them to get powder coated in the near future...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...per-build.html

 

73 F G,

I really like the lines of the bumpers, thanks for the link.

I am going to practice my galvinized welding on the trailer first.

It may also take time to come up with a unique design too. (what if I did my
bumper out of carbon fiber?)

 

I'd reccomend welding with stick! grind all the edges down as far as you can(dont use a grinding wheel it will gum up after 10 seconds of use then be useless) Use a 7018 rod probably 3/32 size for best results. If its heavy steel use 1/8. stick welding will give you best results for not getting any porosity in your welds. Good luck,hold your breath, and drink milk afterwards breathing galvinized smoke robs calcium from your bones..

May want to use a respirator

 

I have welded steel with various zinc coatings. There are several repercussions.
Just know that galvanized coatings are not nice to weld. Your weldment will be compromised and corrosion prevention will also be sacrificed.

The zinc in the galvanized steel coating will be swept to the center of the weld during solidification resulting in a centerline crack. The amount of cracking will be dependent on the thickness of the coating and how much is brought into the weld.

Depending on the strength requirement of the weldment, the best choice would be to use a silicon bronze (Er-CuSi-A) electrode.

The zinc is soluble in the copper-based material, and should yield a weld with minimal porosity. The minimum tensile strength will be 50 ksi according to AWS A5.7.

If slightly higher strength is required, an aluminum bronze (Er-CuAl-A2) electrode may be used. That would yield a minimum strength of 60 ksi.

If you are going to be using the gas metal arc welding process you should use 100 percent argon shielding gas with either wire.

Another benefit to using these electrodes is that on thinner materials there is a lower burn-though tendency that is due mainly to the differential in melting temperatures between the steel and the copper based fillers.

Mild steel fillers also may be used, such as an ER70S-3 filler metal for gas metal arc welding. Elevated spatter levels along with increased tendencies for porosity generally are experienced.

Weld joint fit-up that is looser, yielding an alternate path for the vapor that is generated from the zinc can be effective in reducing the tendency for porosity. Additionally, welding technique and welding procedure can be effective in reducing porosity tendencies by using the arc heat to “burn” off the zinc ahead of the weld.

The region adjacent to the weld toes will have exposed surfaces because the arc heating has removed the zinc layer, and may be prone to corrosion regardless of filler metal selection.

A weld made with the silicon bronze or aluminum bronze will be cathodic relative to the mild steel, resulting in accelerated corrosion locally along the weld toes in a moist environment. Depending on the environment, the weldment most likely will require a post weld coating such as a paint containing zinc.

When welding galvanized, it is important to use proper fume extraction.

A good article on the internet about welding galvanized, post weld coatings and welding fumes can be found at the following website: http://www.sperkoengineering.com/htm...Galvanized.pdf.

 

Lots of big words in that one!! I like the "solidification" one. I'm going to try to use that one on a daily basis at work and see if I don't get bugged. Lol


Plain and simple 7018! With 70,000 tesnsile strength and able to burn through almost anything..

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/890186-bumpers.html
Just a general bumper picture thread. Few links in there.


As for Ed's post, I think his method is; "talk alot and use big words", and then NO ONE will question him lol. I think i've seen someone correct him twice, like 99% of the time everyone just takes his word on things.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...per-build.html
And here's a bumper build thread.

Have fun.

 

Ive got to apologize for running away with the thread. I got carried away with the galvanized question simply because I have experience in the area.
This can be done, unfortunately is performed improperly time and time again. Understanding the chemicals involved and understanding what happens to the weld after the arc is applied is not as simple as it seems.
Remember that Zinc and a weld regardless (almost) of the filler often results in a crack. Not one that can be sen, but the compromise in the weld is there.
Those that have been inspected by any reasonable method will understand.
The visual (VT) might not disclose or display some of the inherent problems that can occur with some welding methods. Others such as X-ray (RT) will begin to expose what the eyes cant see, and ultrasonic (UT) is becoming the norm.
Most galvanized welds wont pass these tests, nor with they meet AWS apecs.
Too many inclusions, and the weld itself is not as sound as it could be, plus all of the coating is gone, so it almost defeats the purpose.

Yes it can be done, but is not the best practice.

Thread returned, and on to some bumpers.............................

 

Here's the one I built for my truck. If I had it to do over, I would have used a larger tube for the main bumper. I think it looks a little small. It is 2 3/8", IIRC. Unfortunately, the truck is now gone, so I can't measure anything. My various galleries have a few more pics of it. I Stick welded it with 6013.


As far as materials, I can't see why anybody would use galvanized. You can get a nice bumper out of regular mild steel and get it painted or powdercoated.

 

Yes Ed, I completely agree. O_o