Here it is.
So besides the bolt how is a zero rate different than a block? It still creates the same leverage on the springs as a block.. And isn't that why people diss blocks?
Don't get me wrong, I'm not sayin anything bad about blocks.. We all know I have been running stacked blocks for years now... Why do you think I asked to see pics of your traction bars
Don't get me wrong, I'm not sayin anything bad about blocks.. We all know I have been running stacked blocks for years now... Why do you think I asked to see pics of your traction bars
But on that same note, would you consider a pinion shim a block? Basically the same principle.
I had a 2000 Dodge 1500 about 4 or 5 years ago. I bought a 6" Rough country lift for it, it came with a 5" lift block and said to put it on top of the factory 2 or 3"......
Coming from a actual lift company, thats not saying much. And stupid me, didn't really know any better, did it-with no traction bars. I never had any issues with it, i beat the hell of that truck, and to my knowledge it is still on the road today.
If you look close, alot of the lifted trucks running around with store bought lifts have stacked blocks. I would say atleast 75% have em. Like you said, as long as you check things once in a while its not that big of an issue.
To me, there is no such thing as a pinion shim. I wouldn't use them, I would rather move the spring perches. The I've seen more shims break than not.
Really? I've never heard of them brakeing.
my truck has stacked blocks, but at least the guy who owned it before me had half@$$ed common sense and welded the blocks together. i really wish he would've left the 12'' all spring lift on it before he sold it, but he sold the springs and 44's and lowered it. never thought about it that way, i drive a "lowered truck on 38's"
I run a 4" steel block on my rear that I made out of 1/2" plate with open corner welds for full pen welds. My stock 4" cast block I twisted it in a wheeling comp. With the steel block I was able to weld two sides of it to the spring perch with no special welding rod but a 7018. I also went to massive 3/4" u bolts after twisting my 9/16 ones ! These 3/4 ones you can torque the he'll out of them without any worries. But tinian already knows all this I told him this in his build thread.....
O I also cut the bump stop pieces off the old blocks and welded them to my new steel ones with the proper cast rod just for looks to make them look like stock even though the bump stops would never get used.
O I also cut the bump stop pieces off the old blocks and welded them to my new steel ones with the proper cast rod just for looks to make them look like stock even though the bump stops would never get used.
Great post! Love that picture of the tire eating the fender
I run blocks in the rear with traction bars and no issues at all.. I too have never heard of the shims breaking or cracking.. And I have seen allot of big rigs tearing it up in the Mud and Tug of War around here..
I run blocks in the rear with traction bars and no issues at all.. I too have never heard of the shims breaking or cracking.. And I have seen allot of big rigs tearing it up in the Mud and Tug of War around here..
No, my truck is still in a million pieces. I finally get to start putting it back together this weekend so we'll see.
Nice rig! But I think you CB antenna is too short. ha ha. Are you missing a lug nut on the fender rubbing picture (front driver side wheel). Your truck looks mean, always thought them 150 bodies looked good lifted so high. I bet if you got some cut out fender flares you cut fit those 49s. now go crush some prius..
Nice rig! But I think you CB antenna is too short. ha ha. Are you missing a lug nut on the fender rubbing picture (front driver side wheel). Your truck looks mean, always thought them 150 bodies looked good lifted so high. I bet if you got some cut out fender flares you cut fit those 49s. now go crush some prius..
Yeah. Those damn lug nut sets that come with the wheel locks.
Try not to lose the key, they are a PITA to get off without one....







