This is something I saw on another site and decided to do it to my rig. Basicly, it makes the steering geomitry better on a lifted TTB truck. (suspension lift) Also it gets the steering linkage up a little out of harms way. It is a very eazy and cheap upgrade.

First, you remove the front swaybar links. They are the dogbone looking things that go between the swaybar ends and the spring perch. Swap them side to side and instal them up instead of down. Swival the swaybar up and bolt it to the links. The reason you are doing this is to make room for the tierod flip.

Next, remove both tierod ends and spin them in the adjustment sleeve so they point down. Ream the holes with a taper reamer. (1.5" per foot) I recomend a 1/2" drill set to slowest speed. You have to be careful not to go to far.

Bolt the tierods in form the top with some big washers and reset the toe. Done.

If you dont like the Hourglass shaped hole, (I dont) you can buy bushings or fill the space with JB Weld.

In any case, It does improve the handleing. Especially the pump steer and wander. I took a picture and will try to post it. (I'm not so good with puters.)

 

Here you can see the swaybar links up and the tierod on the top side. If you do this mod, you may have to reset the turning stop for right turns because the right tierod may hit the shock at full lock. You lose only a very little turning circle. I didnt lose any because I had to reset the stops for bigger tires.

 

Sorry guys,
I cant figure out how to make the picture bigger.

 

When you look up the "forum codes" for the image there should be two URLs listed. Double check that you are using the one for the full size image and not the thumbnail.

 

 

Thanks greystreak

 

This all seems fine except for the part about drilling out the spindle. The tie rod end needs to lock into the taper on the spindle in order to not work itself loose. If this is an off-road rig this may be OK but I would not want this setup on my daily driver. If it's an off-road rig, you should delete the sway bar altogether.

 

The Idea sounds great..... Question what do you do with the swaybar bracket if the rig has been lifted?? (Drop mount bracket) Do you leave it alone? Or do you put it back on the frame?? Also where could we go to get some sort of bushing for the underside??

JB Weld does not sound like a good idea to me....

 

You must keep the swaybar drop (from the lift) for it to pivot and not hit. I believe the swaybar is a benifit (nesessary) both on and off road. I just Googled tierod bushings and found sevral.

Jas, this has been done many times. If your worried about making the spindle weaker, it's a very smal amount you ream out. (even if you put the bushings in) Most of the guys said they ran it with half the taper with no problems. You relaize even if it got loose, it would just give you a little slop. Its not like you would wreck. You would have plenty of time to get it fixed.

 

So are you saying you end up with an hourglass shape inside the spindle?

 

many over on FSB have done this with great results and have put many miles on them.

not sure if i saw this mentioned but you also revert back to a regular drop pitman harm not the 2-4" drop pitman arm that comes with the lift.

 

If you dont use bushing, you end up with the hourglass in the spindle. Or fill the bottom with JB Weld.

Kem, I didnt remove my drop arm and the geometry looks good. Its been so long since I did the lift, I dont know where the stock arm is. My drop arm is 4". Is the stock arm flat or does it drop 1 or 2 inches. I think the flip raises the tierod about three inches. If the drop arm lowered 2", then 5" equals my lift. (6" sagged to 5")

 

i just recall even the guys running a 6" kit went back to the stock pitman arm. its not totally strait, maybe a 1" drop.

but if your not getting any bind then run it.

 

I am thinking of this from the standpoint of why wouldn't Ford do this from the factory if it's such a great deal. Could longevity of the tie rod end be a problem, with the grease wanting to fall out of the TRE and into the boot?

 

On a stock truck, they need to be on the bottom for the geometry to be correct. This is only to be done on trucks with suspention lifts.

Update, I was going to fill the bottom (of the hourglass) with JB weld. I took the nus off, but it was hard to push thwe glue up thwe crack. So I thought I would pull the tierod out. It was just as tight as the first time! MY grandfather use to say "if you cant pound something out, get a bigger wrench". Well I had a 12" adjustable wrench and I couldnt get it out. I'm at work, so I didnt have a hammer. I drove it four hundred miles since the flip (through New Orleans which is rough road) If it didnt get loose, I dont think it will. Now I'm just going to leave it as it is.