Thought I'd write what I did to level my 2015 F350 4WD CrewCab SRW in hopes that it might help others. Early on, I purchased Bilstein 5100 shocks & the matching steering stabilizer. Front shocks 24-186018, Rear shocks 24-186025, Stablizer 24-196284

I didn't like the rake so I switched out to the F250 rear blocks lowering the rear end. To figure out the correct Ford part number for the u-bolts, I took the VIN from a 2015 F250 4WD with the camper package (same springs w/ upper overload as the F350). The axle spacers (blocks) part number is 6C3Z-5598-A. U-bolt part number is U-Bolts: BC3Z-5705-F. Kept it like that until about 2 month ago.

I decided that I wanted to put the F350 rear blocks back in and level the truck. Did a lot of research and found threads from Smoky Diesel very informative especially this one: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-theory.html. I'd like to thank him for answering questions I asked through PM's. I thought I could assemble a kit for less $$ than buying a available complete kit. I decided I would go with longer front spring instead of spacers. The thought here was the springs would offer a better ride. I decided I would be doing a trackbar. Although many said it wasn't needed, knowing the axle wasn't centered would bug me. I picked the Carl for the reputation of quality and people didn't mention having to grind on the frame crossmember lip.

To start, I reinstalled the F350 rear blocks back in & ordered a Carli adjustable track bar, the Bilstein BTS kit (BLF4-SE5-C765-H0) & 2 Specialty Products Company 2*degree caster sleeves. I picked the Bilstein kit because I already had the exact shocks included in the BTS kit. I figured I could sell the new shocks that came with the kit recouping some money. The install of the springs & trackbar was relatively easy. First thing I did was 'flip' the front brake line ends (see Smoky Diesel's thread). I jacked up the front of the truck & positioned jackstands under the frame near the front bumper. I will say that I was a little surprised at how much I needed to drop the radius arms to get the new springs in. Make sure you disconnect the wire/lines secured to the radius arms so you don't strain them. It took a lot of time to get the trackbar aligned just right to slide into the trackbar bracket. The clearance with the supplied spacers into the bracket is "just right". The Carli piece is a nicely made quality part. To tighten the bolt for the trackbar bracket, I used a good 1/2" impact gun but worried I didn't get it tight enough. (I later borrowed a 3/4" torque wrench from a buddy. The thing was almost four feet long. I don't believe the bolt moved before I got the 'click'. I was busy applying presssure to the torque wrench with it set to 406 lb-ft!) With the new front springs installed, the caster measured -.5 left & -.6 right. I didn't get a before measurement.

added in edit: I finally got the truck on an alignment rack. Caster with the modified radius arms is 2.9* left & 3.2* right.

I didn't install the caster sleeves. Before the parts came in, I decided that I'd modify the radius arms like Smoky Diesel did so I ordered a pair of new radius arms. I also ended up ordering grade 10.9 M18 washers to weld to the radius arms. I didn't have a extra car so I didn't want have my truck down & if a problem happened mid-project I'd be screwed. I also didn't want to feel rushed getting it done.

After the install, I didn't like how close the end of the swaybar came to the wire/vacumn line on the knuckles. There was just enough clearance (like a sheet of paper) so they didn't rub. I figured that doing the radius arm mod would help me gain some clearance but I'm not very patient. It kept bugging me that the shocks had almost no droop. (I read the thread by Smoky Diesel & verified the front measurements myself.). I drove it like that for a couple weeks before I deciding to fix it. To address both problems, I ordered the Bilstein 24-185776 front shocks that Smoky Diesel (initially) used and 2.5" swaybar drop brackets from Performance Metal Fab. The drop brackets are heavy duty quality pieces. Installing them changed the swaybar from 'brushing' the vacuum line to a decent amount of clearance. I can't say what the clearance is compared to 'stock' as I actually didn't pay attention until after installing the springs. The shocks changed the way the truck handled increasing comfort and handling immediately.

Last week, about 3 1/2 weeks since spring install, the radius arms have arrived & I finally finished the modification. As I mentioned above, I was waiting for the radius arms & M18 washers to arrive. I also ordered a radius arm bolt & nut to help me with setting up where the washers needed to be welded. BTW, thread pitch on the M18 bolt is 2.5. I finally went to a welding shop to buy a couple of burrs for opening up the repositioned holes in new radius arms. Install was straight forward. Jack up the truck with jackstands on the front horns again keeping the axle supported with a jack on each side. Remove one radius arm & start install of the new one. I say 'start' because the axle needs to rotate backward to get every thing lined up. Finishing up the install, the last bolt I need to install is the upper knuckle drivers side arm. This is the one with the nut welded on. Uh....doesn't want to thread in. Crap, now the bolt threads are buggered up....some slag must of gotten in there even though I had the spare bolt threaded in to protect the threads. Now I'll have to take off the arms I modified & reinstall the factory arms.

Pissed off at myself, I go wash up to make some calls. I know I don't have a tap or die that big but luck out because the kit I own has a thread pitch gauge. I try the industrial supply places in town & couple towns away but nobody has any taps in the correct size. I order the tap & die on the phone. I go back outside to remove the arms. I take the driver's side arm off first. On the off chance...I take the new bolt & try to thread it in backwards. It threads in! (Keep in mind that there isn't access to the back of the nut with the arm on the truck so I couldn't get to it) All I can think of is that the offending piece of slag dislodged/broke loose. Final tightening/torque of all radius arm connections was done with the front axle supporting the truck's weight to ensure bushing were in correct neutral position.

I haven't been back to my friend's shop yet to check caster. It drives much better without feeling that I'm having to constantly make corrections. Bump stops land solidly on the pad (obvious on the right knuckle) instead of on the rear edge. Springs don't have an obvious bow in them now. Before, the front shock had to be forced into the lower mount due to some misalignment. This is not an issue any more.

The one negative about the install was rotating the axle caused interference between the trackbar & the crossmember frame lip. Prior to the modified radius arms, the trackbar just cleared. Visually it looked tight but there was no evidence of scraping or interference. After the install, I'd hear a squeak/squeal every now & then. Inspection showed the trackbar was scraping on the crossmember. I dropped the trackbar at the balljoint to give me room to work. Using a flap disk on a 4 1/2" grinder, I removed about 5/16" of material from the lip. I much prefer a flap disk to a grinding wheel. That might have been a little more than I needed to remove but I didn't want to have to do the job again.

Here are some torque values from the Ford service dvd you'll need if you plan on doing this: lower shock mount 111 lb-ft; swaybar link 59 lb-ft, swaybar bracket to frame 35 lb-ft; trackbar bracket bolt 406 lb-ft; trackbar to balljoint 185 lb-ft; radius arm bolts (all positions) 222 lb-ft

 

Thanks for that info, bro. Have plans to do this down the line so every little bit of insight helps to see what issues will have to be dealt with.

 

Glad you were able to improve your trucks suspension. Kudos to you for using your brain & fab skills instead of just slapping some parts on and ignoring any negative issues. This isn't to bash anyone who pays someone else to do it or doesn't have the capability to do what you did. Everyone had there own areas of expertise.
Most people trust the lift kits sold are well designed and engineered. Same for the software on your phone or computer, is it all flawless? Hell no. Did countless man hours go into it and it still has bugs? Yes. Did they ship it? Yes they did...
There is no kit that is perfect for every truck configuration and usage.

Thanks for posting the caster values. -0.5 will drive like poo. This indicates your truck started with 2.5 to 3*. The shims, given the factory ones installed are 0*/0* (likely not) could have only gotten you to 2* and prevent any further attempts at an alignment.

I also got a weld booger in that captive nut on the left arm.

 

Just to update the thread.

I finally got the truck on an alignment rack. Caster is now 2.9* left & 3.2* right.

That means that, in my case, doing the radius arm modification made a 3.4*
(-.5 + 2.9 = 3.4) change on the left side and a 3.8* (-.6 + 3.2 = 3.8) change on the right. Obviously, I didn't get one of the measurements just right otherwise the change would be closer to equal. I did have some difficulty measuring the upper left arm (nut welded on). I'm still happy with the caster I gained.

I'm planning on adding a 1* bushing on both sides giving me 3.9* left & 4.2* right.

 

My oem bushing (knuckle - top balljoint) have markings on them that appear to mean they provide +.25 camber & +0.4 caster. I will be ordering 1.25 bushings which will net me +.85* caster. That should put me at left +3.75* & right +4.05

Readylift 4" blocks (66-2024) are not a 'true' 4" block. They taper from approximately 3 1/2" (front) to 3 7/8" (rear) with the center being very close to 3 5/8". Basically, they are the same size as the oem 4WD F350 block.

added in edit: Per Readylift customer service, the 5" block (66-2025) tapers from 4 9/16" to 5". They did not have the center measurement.

added in edit 5/26/17: The Readylift 5" block (66-2025) measured out at 4 5/8" in the center of the block. For those wanting to add 1" to the oem F350 4WD block (or 4" Readylift block), this will do it.

Removing the oem camber/caster bushing with an air chisel made it pretty easy although it slightly damaged the oem bushing. Installed new SPC +1.25 Caster bushings. I haven't gotten the truck on the alignment rack yet.