Hi guys,

I've been reading some comments, and I noticed that I am not the only one with hot brakes problem.
Actually, I changed my pads and put SuperDuty pads (OEM) from Ford.

Since then, each time I am leaving downtown and I am driving around (80kilometers without stopping) I have a real BIG problem with my brakes getting HOT and HOT.
First time it happened, I arrived to my destination, brakes warmed and threw some smoke on my front left side, I had the car stoped 30min in order to get them cool. Put around 3Liters of water on them to get them cool faster
When I saw all the smoke, trust me, I was really scared about the Raptor getting fire ... !!!!

Then for the second time, this saturday again with some 80 or 90 kms to do, and this time was the front right side getting also extremely hot (but without smoke) as I already knew the situation and stoped before arriving to destination (maybe 20-25kilometers before). I put again some water and wait around 10min.

When driving, I notice also the car is pushing to left side when brakes are hot.

 

You didn't say what vehicle you have, so I'll assume you have front disc brakes. Sticky brakes are caused by a seized caliper, seized caliper slide pins, or a partially collapsed rubber brake line.

So take the caliper apart and see if the pins move. Then see if the caliper piston moves. You should be able to compress it with a pair of channel-lock pliers. If both of those check out, replace the hose.

If the caliper pistons won't move you have to replace the caliper. You also must replace calipers in pairs so do the other side if that's the issue.

 

If the plunger in the power brake booster is not adjusted properly it will keep your brakes applied all the time. It will be just like driving around with your foot pressing on the brake all the time. It is easy to test. Just jack the front end up and see if you can spin the front wheel with ease. If both wheels spin free then pump the brake pedal a few times and see if the wheels still spin free. If not then the pushrod is adjusted too far out. You can easily test this by loosening the bolts on the master cylinder and pulling it away from the brake booster. If the wheels free up then it is the pushrod adjustment. If just one wheel is dragging and the other one spins free them uou have a caliper problem.

 

My bad sorry,
I have a Ford Raptor F-150 SVT 2013.

 

Same problem I had.

Mine ended up being pistons seizing inside the calipers.
Thinking it was collapsed rubber lines, I opened the bleeder screw first....no release. Rotor still hard to turn.

Then I put a big c clamp on the caliper and it hardly even compressed.
Problem found

 

As a tech tip for anyone else buying rebuilt calipers....before you leave the auto parts store, make sure the bleeder screws do not "rock" in the threads. That is a sign of a wrong size bleeder or the rebuilder was a little too aggressive with a tap to clean the threads and removed too much metal.
This caused massive leaks while bleeding because the fluid went past the threads instead of down the center of the bleeder.

I learned the hard way. The second set I got had minimum thread "rocking" so I got the lines to bleed as normal.

 

I know this is an old post but i am having this problem. Any ideas?

 

I have seen so many guys fight this problem. They replace calipers, pads, rotors and still the problem. It may just be a simple problem of the pushrod in the booster too long. The easiest way to check it is to just loosen the nuts on the master cylinder that bolt it to the booster about a 1/4 inch and see if the problem goes away. If it does then the pushrod needs to be adjusted. Check the manual on how to adjust the pushrod. DON"T PULL THE PUSHROD OUT OF THE BOOSTER. I did it one time and the reaction disk fell out of place and the only way to get it back on, unless you are really lucky, is to get a new booster.