On again, off again starting issue
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Billings, MT
Okay, it appears that my issue was the starter solenoid. After getting the wrong one from parts store, I installed a new one and the truck fired right up. I did clean all my cable ends, including the ground ends. Put two new ends on two of the cables. Auto Zone was able to get me a soleniod with just three posts but the mounting bracket was a bit different, so I had to drill a little hole and put a sheet metal screw in.
It appears to be all fixed, at least that part. Now I just need to fix the back up alarm, and the the oil leaks and change the oil and install the black CPS when it arrives and, and....
Yes the ORV park is still there. One of these days I'm going to get a 4wheeler and go play. It's a nice area to live though.
Thanks for all that posted with help. If anyone needs the part number for the solenoid I can get it for you later. It's in the wife's car and she's gone.
(I love this guy).
It appears to be all fixed, at least that part. Now I just need to fix the back up alarm, and the the oil leaks and change the oil and install the black CPS when it arrives and, and....
Thanks for all that posted with help. If anyone needs the part number for the solenoid I can get it for you later. It's in the wife's car and she's gone.
(I love this guy).
New User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: St. Marys WV
the issue with mine was the start neurtal switch or safety neutral switch what ever u want to call it. also helps to hook up wire back up going to soleniod after u test to see if u have power from switch. a couple *******es left it unhooked and couldn't get it to start after we adjuste teh safety neutral switch
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 14,069
Likes: 17
From: Melbourne, Ky
Yes they did, and we deserved it too! That's what happens if you can't shoot free-throws, and to a lesser extent, can't shoot the 3-pointer. What part of WV are you located? I do get over there on occasion. I was in Williamson, WV last week. I've been to Charleston a few times too.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Billings, MT
Aargh, this truck is killing me. Since 4/18 it's started perfect every time. Tonight I drive home from work, stop at home to pick my daughter up for band concert, drive her to school, come out and go to start. Starter kicks in for half a second then quits. After that same problem as before, nothing when trying to start with the key. If I put the key in and turn to run, I can use a screwdriver to jump the solenoid and it fires right up. For anyone just tuning in. I tested the starter and batteries, both good. I cleaned all the battery connections, including both ends of the grounds. I replaced the starter solenoid (mounted on the passenger side fender). I have a work trip planned in one week and need it working by then. Please help!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Billings, MT
I will try that. I may need some guidance on exactly how to do that. I'm not very "educated" with a voltage meter, although I do own one. Would I check with the key in the run position? I'm assuming that the pin you're referring to is the smallest post, of the three, on the solenoid? Also, what do I attach the black cable from the meter to?
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 1
From: Northern Idaho
OK, set your volt meter to 12, 15 or 20v
On your solenoid you have 4 posts. One is hot, it's the lead from the battery, the other leads to the starter, another is negative and the other comes from your ignition switch
Have someone sit in the cab with the key in the ignition. Find your negative (ground) and positive to the switch. The two big leads are battery and starter.
Put the red on the terminal for the ignition switch and the block on your negative. Turn the key. If you see no voltage then you have either a broken or loose wire or a messed up switch.
On your solenoid you have 4 posts. One is hot, it's the lead from the battery, the other leads to the starter, another is negative and the other comes from your ignition switch
Have someone sit in the cab with the key in the ignition. Find your negative (ground) and positive to the switch. The two big leads are battery and starter.
Put the red on the terminal for the ignition switch and the block on your negative. Turn the key. If you see no voltage then you have either a broken or loose wire or a messed up switch.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 1
From: Northern Idaho
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Billings, MT
Ok, so I found the positive and negative. I put the black wire from my meter on the big negative post (solenoid) and the red (from the meter) on the small post (solenoid, the one that you just pull the wire off by hand). No reading on the meter. So I pull the small cable and and put the probe (meter) into the small wire. It reads 5 volts. Same readings are produced when the key is turned to run or start. I cannot hear the solenoid clicking except one time it was "humming", so I tried to start with the key, got nothing and the humming died. If I did the testing right it's somewhere between the key and the solenoid, right?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Billings, MT
I was just reading from the link Visseroth provided in post #27. Here's one part:
Step one, open the hood and have someone turn the key to the start position. Listen for the starter relay over on the passenger side fender area near the big red battery cables; it should click when the key is turned to start. If it doesn’t, then it is not getting power. This would be a great time to see if the truck has a starter interrupter kill circuit. Some of these modules are driven by the keyless entry output from the Generic Electronic Module (GEM), and some are manual switches. It could be doing its job, or is broken.
I have a Viper remote start/security system. Is it possible that that is interrupting the signal? When I replaced the solenoid 3 weeks ago, I pulled the batteries completely out and had them tested. Maybe that reset something, although I don't know if I even have a starter interrupter kill circuit. Where would I look, or how would I find out?
Step one, open the hood and have someone turn the key to the start position. Listen for the starter relay over on the passenger side fender area near the big red battery cables; it should click when the key is turned to start. If it doesn’t, then it is not getting power. This would be a great time to see if the truck has a starter interrupter kill circuit. Some of these modules are driven by the keyless entry output from the Generic Electronic Module (GEM), and some are manual switches. It could be doing its job, or is broken.
I have a Viper remote start/security system. Is it possible that that is interrupting the signal? When I replaced the solenoid 3 weeks ago, I pulled the batteries completely out and had them tested. Maybe that reset something, although I don't know if I even have a starter interrupter kill circuit. Where would I look, or how would I find out?
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 1
From: Northern Idaho
Maybe someone can chime in but there are a couple places that the starter interupt is kept. One I believe to be the passenger side kick panel below the glove box, the others I don't know.
In regards to your alarm system, yes, it is possible that it is faulty. You should be seeing 12v at the small positive wire that you tested. That is the signal wire that enables the solenoid to give the starter power. If you had someone turn the key while you where checking the voltage on it and all you saw was 5v then something is a miss. You have a problem somewhere between your ignition switch and the solenoid. Next place to check would be your starter kill then check to see if you're getting the proper voltage out of the ignition switch.
Maybe someone can chime in and tell you which wire to test under the dash and where else the starter kill switch could be.
In regards to your alarm system, yes, it is possible that it is faulty. You should be seeing 12v at the small positive wire that you tested. That is the signal wire that enables the solenoid to give the starter power. If you had someone turn the key while you where checking the voltage on it and all you saw was 5v then something is a miss. You have a problem somewhere between your ignition switch and the solenoid. Next place to check would be your starter kill then check to see if you're getting the proper voltage out of the ignition switch.
Maybe someone can chime in and tell you which wire to test under the dash and where else the starter kill switch could be.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff Taylor
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
11
Nov 2, 2015 10:53 AM
Kapusta
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
May 26, 2014 09:44 PM
pwstroker69
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
15
Feb 11, 2014 02:52 PM
