I scoured the threads looking for this issue I'm having with my truck not starting. A number of threads have a similar issue but no one has posted an answer, that I could find.

The other day I got in my truck, drove to the store, came out and engine wouldn't turn over. No starter clicks, nothing, except a click under the dash and all lights, radio, wait to start light are working. I jumped the solenoid on the passenger side fender across the two big post and it fires right up. Got to work, came out that afternoon and it starts like champ with the key. That was about 3 weeks ago, and it's been starting fine since. Yesterday, same thing happens, only this time it hasn't auto corrected. I can start it no problem by jumping the solenoid. I can hear the solenoid "humming" when I turn the ignition to run (it's done that before when it's cold out). The first time it did the no start thing I did notice that the shift lever bolts/tork screw below the dash were quite loose, I tightened.

Here's what I have done:
Tried starting in Neutral.
Tried starting while moving the lever between P and 1
Tapped on the solenoid
Battery cables were cleaned about 2 months ago.
I have a aftermarket alarm with remote start. Remote start tries to work but same issue. When the truck is running I can use the remote start to remove the keys and leave it idling and replace the keys without any issues.
I put the alarm in Valet mode and tried starting it that way.
I have not chased ground connections, not even sure where they are to check.

I know someone is going to ask me to use a meter to read volts and ohms. I have one but don't really know how to use it. I believe I got the setting right and checked the solenoid, it read 12+ when the key was out of the ignition and when the key was turned to run. I checked it across the two big posts. I will add that since this has been happening it seems like the batteries aren't putting as much juice to the starter, but it might just be because I'm hearing it start from under the hood and not the cab.

I think that's everything, I'd appreciate any help, especially the inexpensive kind. Life's been throwing lemons at me lately and I can't afford the sugar to make lemonade. I'll add too that I'm not a mechanic, although I can get by (changed clutch(s), brake pads, put engine in Toyota PU, water pumps, etc.), but reading posts here, you guys are way out of my league. So go easy on me.

2001 F-250, 7.3L, 169,000 miles, 203 thermostat (new), DB alternator (new); otherwise all stock. Oh, and grey CPS, that I don't like.

 

Why dont you just drop the starter and take it to an auto parts store to test it, I replaced mine a few months back and it had similar issues and I wooda swore it wasn't the starter

 

Clicking under the dash tells me it's a voltage issue. Check your battery cables again. Make sure they are clean and tight. Don't forget each cable has 2 ends. Check them both.

Next time it clicks, hold the key to start for about 7 or 8 seconds then jump out and feel all your battery cables. When you find the hot one, that's the one with a bad connection.

 

If it is not a loose connection.Have someone get inside and try to start while you get under and peck the starter with a hammer.Mine was doing this and when I pecked mine fire shot out of it so I knew the starter was toast.Pulled it off and had it rebuilt.

 

Ok, I tried holding the ingnition to start for about 15 seconds and felt the cables, none were hot. Did this twice. Then I had somone get in and hold the ingition to start while I tapped on the starter. Nothing. I'm going to pull the starter and batteries and take them in to get tested. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

I pretty sure I need new battery cables but have to wait for tax return (I have five kids so I always get one). Incidently, please forgive my typing errors, I have a 2yr old on my lap "helping" me type. He also is a great helper when I'm working on my truck.

Thanks for the ideas and help so far.

 

If it starts jumping the solenoid, then I'd say the problem is in the solenoid. Sounds like you need a starter.

 

I need a new starter or solenoid? The soleniod I'm refering to is the one mounted on the passenger side fender, under the hood. That is the same solenoid that will sometimes, "hum" when it's cold outside, but it's been doing that for almost two years. Only sometimes though.

 

Solenoid I guess. The solenoid on my truck (02) is actually on the starter. My 97 has it on the fender.

 

Ok the starter checks out just fine. So do the batteries. I did get a new solenoid, going to install that and put all the other stuff back on. Cross my fingers.

 

I have been experiencing the same issue lately, myself
off the subject: is the ORV still open in Solon? I use to wheel there with some friends from Iowa a few years ago. Camped at lake Mcbride! my father is from Independence and used to camp at Backbone as a kid

 

having teh same issues. thought it was the swithc on the side of transmision. we adjusted it and thought we had it fixed but won't start now. any suggestions

 

Well, first thing is to check the obvious things. Batteries, battery connections, starter solenoid. What year is your truck? Auto or manual tranny? Does it do this when it is warmed up, or all the time? Will jump-starting it help?

BTW, welcome to FTE!!

 

sorry about the small amount of info. it is a 2001 ford excursion 7.3 auto. the starter has been checked and is ok the batteries checked and ok the terminals clean and tight. replaces solonoid not sure it was needed. i can jump around solonoid andstart it. we adjusted the start newtral switch on tranny thought we had it fixed. now nothing unless i jump the solonoid. no powere to solonoid whit switch on. pulled the plug on the start neutral switch and have .2 at it. small amount of corrosion in it.

 

how do you put the vehicle info below posts

 

I believe you need 25 posts to be able to have a signature. Look for the User CP located in the upper left of the page and click on it. There is a menu of items on the left side of the page.

If the problem is in the neutral safety switch, you can usually get it to start by moving the gear selector up and down while holding the key on.