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2000 Expy won't start with key

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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 06:03 PM
  #1  
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2000 Expy won't start with key

Gentlemen, I hate to ask but searching for answers here for hours has me at wits end.

I have a 2000 Expedition, Eddie Bauer, 4.6L that won't start with the key. Turn the ignition, all the dash lights come on as normal, headlights operate, power windows are fine.....turn the key to start and nothing. Power turns off to everything like normal when the key is on START but the starter doesn't engage. There's no clicking like you get with a weak battery or starter. Nothing.

Here's what I've done so far:
1. Tried cranking it in Neutral. Tried jiggling the gear select lever while cranking. Tried jerking the lever around while cussing at it. No results.

2, Tried the same thing with wiggling the key. No results.

3. Changed the battery, installed a brand new one (swiped out of my wifes Jeep). No change.

4. Used a screwdriver to jump the starter solenoid. Cranked right up and ran smooth as ever.

5. Installed a new starter solenoid. Same problem.

Can anybody offer any directions on where to look next?

Thanks.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 08:19 PM
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Did you check the fuse in the ignition (starter) circuit? See owner's manual.

It's in between the key switch and the starter relay on the firewall as is the DTR switch.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 09:56 PM
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I checked the two fuses under the dash for the ignition. Both looked fine but I swapped them out anyway. I checked the two in the box under the hood, looked fine but swapped them too.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 11:55 PM
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What about the starter motor relay on the firewall, did you check it?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Taylor
I checked the two fuses under the dash for the ignition. Both looked fine but I swapped them out anyway. I checked the two in the box under the hood, looked fine but swapped them too.
You have to check SPECIFIC fuses that are for SPECIFIC functions. If you did not check the one in the ignition's starter circuit (see alloro's diagram), you did not check the right one.

After a visual exam (or replacement), you have to actually TEST circuits using a meter/test light of start swapping stuff and home to get lucky.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 07:37 AM
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Looking at schematics the "starter motor relay" and the "starter solenoid" are the same thing....the unit on the firewall what the battery cable goes into, then down to the starter....correct? If that is it then I replaced that with a new one but it didn't correct the issue.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Taylor
Looking at schematics the "starter motor relay" and the "starter solenoid" are the same thing.
No they are two different components. The relay is on the firewall while the solenoid is mounted to the side of the starter motor. But if you jumped the relay on the firewall then that means the solenoid down on the starter is working. Also, since you replaced the relay, then that means the problem has to do with the wiring for the relay coil.

Assuming all of the fuses check out, I would say your next step is to probe the tan/red wire coming off the DTR sensor on the side of the tranny when turning the key to start. You should get +12v, if you don't then next probe the dark blue/orange wire coming off the DTR, again when turning the key to start you should get +12v. If you then get the +12v the problem is the DTR sensor.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 12:42 PM
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This thing....Starter Solenoid Relay Assembly.

I'll get out the multi-meter at work tomorrow and check the DTR. The transmission was just rebuilt (again) two weeks ago, could very well be something loose or damaged when it was removed. I assumed if is was the DTR it would still start if I put it in Neutral. It won't start in either one.

Thanks for the help, I'll see if that's it in the morning.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Taylor
I assumed if is was the DTR it would still start if I put it in Neutral. It won't start in either one.
If the contacts are broken, dirty, or pitted inside the DTR then it won't work in any position. Of course the wiring to the DTR could've been damaged when the tranny was removed/reinstalled.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 05:39 PM
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The transmission was just rebuilt (again) two weeks ago,


Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner!

I'll place a $5 bet that the wiring harness near the transmission is either pinched or is sitting on the exhaust or drive train and has blown fuse F21. Go check that fuse first.

Recent transmission or exhaust work often precedes this issue.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 08:20 PM
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You can also remove fuse #21 and see if its socket receives power when the ignition switch is turned to the crank position. If it doesn't, check out the ignition switch and its circuit.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 10:53 AM
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You don't even need to remove it. Just probe the two test points on the fuse with the ignition switch held in the START position.

See those two little holes on the top of the ATM or minifuse on either side of the printed fuse value?
 
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