well i bought another psd (96 4door drw auto )it runs but looks like an old train when i pull the oil cap off.so i'm going to take another one from a burnt truck i have and put it in this one what i'm wondering is if you guys would recommend reringing (rings ,rod and mains bearings and gaskets)this one before i install it.i was told it only had 147000 miles on it.but can't conferm this as the cluster burnt up to.it was clean under the valve cover when i removed it but ?if i rebuild it i need to know what all to replace like can you use the headbolts over?and i'm going to replace all the orings i can while its out like ,oil cooler ,dipstick orings ,fuel filter drain i think i've seen stuff on that.and i know its been hit before but i'm going to install a chip of some kind to. wondering if i should go with a 4 or 6 position or just a fixed chip?its a auto truck will it help the trans to?when going back i'll be installing a 3" downpipe and a wix airfilter i think i seen one on here as a kit awhile back.
and i'll take any advice i can with this being my first powerstroke rebuild.many gas motors done so i just want to make sure a motors a motor but i know theres somethings that need to be addressed if i do take it apart
thanks john

 

Ok if im reading this right, you are rebuilding because of the smoke coming out of the filler cap? Have you flipped the cap over and tried plugging the hole, if the smoke pushed the cap up then you have a problem, if you can just keep it plugged, thats most likely normal. Mine smokes out the filler cap. As long as its a constant stream and not coming out in spurts.

As far as a chip, 4 pos or 6 pos doesnt matter, whatever you feel you need as your positions. Definitely get a ts chip with custom tunes like php, TW, swamps, beans something to that effect. As for the tranny, its an auto and if its a stocker then its a weak point on the truck and will not like adding power to it. Your gonna want to do some things for the tranny to try to keep it from crappin out on you. Things like a larger cooler and maybe a shift kit or valve body.

You definitely want to do the 3" downpipe because the factory dp is flatter than a pancake and very restrictive. Also the intake is a good idea. Many people here use a 6637 filter but i prefer tymar intake because Dale and Tymar uses a donaldson filter which is basically a 6637 but it is waterproof and he sells you the entire kit for a good price.

I dont know what your plans are for the truck but basically this is the order to do things in... Intake, exhaust with downpipe, gauges, then chip.

Sorry for the long post but i think i covered most of your questions.

 

thanks for the quick post.but no this motor runs ok but puffs air as high as the hood with it up so its coming out.i have another one from a truck i parted out with 147000 i'll be installing just wondering if i should take it apart and check anything(and what to look for while i'm in there looking)come from a burnt truck
thanks john

 

If I had it out I would pull the pan and look at the bearings for my own piece of mind if nothing else. Maybe a good time to replace the pan too if its rusty. These pans will sometimes rust up good.

If you see my sig I put a big cooler on my tranny and a racer x valve body. It shifts awesome and stays much cooler now. I believe the chip delivers more line pressures to the tranny too.

 

if your replacement motor came from a burnt truck was the fire in the engine bay? If not I would do the things that are a pain withit installed/ upipe gaskets 3-4 downpipe turbo pedestal oring fuel lines oil plugs are on the ends of the oil gallery on the front and back of each head. IPR o-rings and any other soft parts likethe other o-rings you are already planning on. I don;t think I would do rings and bearings on the donor engine. I'd save that task for the one with the blowby

 

yes thanks for the list of stuff to check thats kinda what i'm needing to know what may have got hurt in the fire.it heres the motor pic

 

It would be nice to know where the fire started from. Was the truck running when it was on fire? Does the engine turn over? Since this has to come out, you might as well put it on a H-D engine stand and go through it VERY WELL. Looks like everything plastic is junk---you'll want to check the harness/valvecover gasket assy (plastic with silicone embedded gasket). If that engine was running when the fire was put out, I'd fear water went through the whole thing, and the cylinders are junk. Like someone recommended, pull the pan and look at the engine behind the rings. Try to turn the engine, and rusty cylinders will expose themselves, IF it can even spin. Don't bother with the turbo, maybe rebuild it, but don't use as-is. Best of luck. BTW, on your old engine, is it possible the rings are just carbon stuck? Have you tried to run some agressive fuel system cleaner through it? That might get the cylinders hot enough to loosen up the rings. If it's rod knock, that will cause blowby, and will be difficult to hear with a diesel engine, but should see it fart blue out the pipe when you snap the throttle at low rpms (not the normal exhaust odor too) I just haven't run across too many 7.3's that crap the bed. I'd attribute it largely to previous poor maintenance, too few oil changes, the WRONG oil or letting it get too low. I worked for an employer that had SEVERAL 7.3's in commercial cube trucks (E450's). The only maintenance they saw was frequent 3000~4000 mile oil changes and a few trannys---otherwise, they never had a gentle life (pulling a full load in the box, and a 6000 trailer attached carrying another 2~4 tons of cargo), and the oldest truck got up to 275,000 miles when I left the company. Again, best of luck

 

fire started on the brake mc (ford recall)that did'nt get takin care of.guy said it died warming up in his driveway.so was not running when they put it out.all wiring was toast even injector wiring.but motor turns over well i drained the oil when i pulled it out before i even turned it over had about 2or 3 qts of water in the pan but none in the filter so i know it was'nt running. turbo turns free and its clean under valve covers just a little rust on the pushrods where water got sprayed into vc.the one i'm driveing is messing with my head its gotten better while i'm driving it now its like a constant stream and not coming out in spurts as JamesHajek stated it would blow my hand off the cover and now its just like regular blowby.and JamesHajek i plan to drive everyday and pull sometimes up to 8000# at the most.thanks for all the help you guys are very helpfull.and does anyone have the site for the 6637 kit i seen on here a month or so ago.someone from here was selling it
thanks john

 

Clay at Riffraff diesel has them ... Riffraff Diesel

 

If it were me, I'd rebuild the one that is puffing out the fill cap. If you've got a burnt piston of something, just grab one from your burnt motor. Otherwise I'd plan on a complete rebuild on the burnt motor.

 

If the motor with blowby is running. Pour a quart or 2 of Marvel Or your own favorite oil treatment in to the full line and run it hard. put some in the fuel too. Don't be timid the rings may have carbon that needs to get flushed out. If it aint broke don't fix it.