~~Calling Garbz2~~ Axle Flip experience.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
~~Calling Garbz2~~ Axle Flip experience.
Hey Garbz2,
Won on the street you flipped your axle on a unibody. Checking to see your feelings on that. I have the longer u bolts already, actually had them made yesterday.
Few questions..
Did you put a spacer between the axle and the spring pack to clear the linkage, or did you relocate the linkage to the top side?
Did you adjust the pitman arm to keep the wheels centered and the steering wheel straight?
I appreciate the help!
Won on the street you flipped your axle on a unibody. Checking to see your feelings on that. I have the longer u bolts already, actually had them made yesterday.
Few questions..
Did you put a spacer between the axle and the spring pack to clear the linkage, or did you relocate the linkage to the top side?
Did you adjust the pitman arm to keep the wheels centered and the steering wheel straight?
I appreciate the help!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
I drilled the alxe on the bottom with a new locating hole that is necessary to keep it from spitting out on deflection. I also made spacers for between the bolts to make up for the missing mounting flange from the leaf to the flange.
I abandoned the project once i placed the axle on top of the leafs as i had the 472s oil pan below the rails and the axle would impact it. I had set the big block down low in the chassis.
If you can maintain clearance to the engine and install poly button stops on the bottom of the rail and maintain oil pan clearance it will work with a rear sump pan. A c notch wont be necessary if you dont mind hitting the stop, just check peridoitically for cracks in the frame.
You need to custom modify the drag link in a drop to make up for the rise. You can modify and legnthen the stock one or have a custom one made with new 7 degree tie rod ends.
Garbz
I abandoned the project once i placed the axle on top of the leafs as i had the 472s oil pan below the rails and the axle would impact it. I had set the big block down low in the chassis.
If you can maintain clearance to the engine and install poly button stops on the bottom of the rail and maintain oil pan clearance it will work with a rear sump pan. A c notch wont be necessary if you dont mind hitting the stop, just check peridoitically for cracks in the frame.
You need to custom modify the drag link in a drop to make up for the rise. You can modify and legnthen the stock one or have a custom one made with new 7 degree tie rod ends.
Garbz
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Wow you're awesome....
Ok here's my setup. I have a 302 in mine, with a rear sump pan, and I will not be driving this thing much. I have 6 cars as it is, so this is just an extra curricular. I was actually going to install a sort of "timbren" bushing between the axle and the frame, to soak up some of the bumps should it get up there.. I'm going to post up some pics in a second..
I am not 100% sure about what you mean about the drag link piece. If I clock the pitman arm towards the rear, wouldn't that soak up the difference? Provided the three wheels are straight, I shouldn't lose any of the turn to lock in either direction, as long as the pitman doesn't impact another component/chassis. Right? My engineering mind at work, but it doesn't necessarily mean thats a true statement.
Thanks for the help and answering the call!!!!
I am not 100% sure about what you mean about the drag link piece. If I clock the pitman arm towards the rear, wouldn't that soak up the difference? Provided the three wheels are straight, I shouldn't lose any of the turn to lock in either direction, as long as the pitman doesn't impact another component/chassis. Right? My engineering mind at work, but it doesn't necessarily mean thats a true statement.
Thanks for the help and answering the call!!!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Cant clock it. it only goes on one way due to the pinch bolt. It needs to be longer to keep the box centered at straight ahead. If you don't it will be off center and may run out of box on a hard turn the other way.
You should have clearance of at leas 1 1/2 inch to the frame. Use short a button type urethane bump and invest in good custom shocks like bilstiens. They will take a lot of wallow and jinkin out.
Reuse the stock locating pin flipped to the top and drill the axle with a 1/2" deep locater hole.
Watch the tie rod and where it ends up. I made short 1" x 1 1/4" OD x 9/16th ID spacers and made up grade 8 3 1/2" 9/16 24 bolts with castle nuts and drilled them for a cotter. i planned to drill the 7 degree tapers out and use 9/16 x 3/4" heim joints in place of the tie rod ends . I did not complete the arms as i abandoned it once i hit the oil pan.
Now this mod and a 3" drop axle would be the shnizz...
Garbz
You should have clearance of at leas 1 1/2 inch to the frame. Use short a button type urethane bump and invest in good custom shocks like bilstiens. They will take a lot of wallow and jinkin out.
Reuse the stock locating pin flipped to the top and drill the axle with a 1/2" deep locater hole.
Watch the tie rod and where it ends up. I made short 1" x 1 1/4" OD x 9/16th ID spacers and made up grade 8 3 1/2" 9/16 24 bolts with castle nuts and drilled them for a cotter. i planned to drill the 7 degree tapers out and use 9/16 x 3/4" heim joints in place of the tie rod ends . I did not complete the arms as i abandoned it once i hit the oil pan.
Now this mod and a 3" drop axle would be the shnizz...
Garbz
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
That would be tooo low I think. I have the axle flipped already, but I didn;t want to drill for the locator, so I used rubber mounts, notched and drilled to locate the axle. I figure it will have a little bit of give over the nasty's should I need it.
I made these for bump stops. The center bolt is recessed 3/4" with an additional 1/4" thick between the head and the frame. Should soak up some of the bad ones.
So here's the finished product for now. I need a 2" drop in the back somehow.
I made these for bump stops. The center bolt is recessed 3/4" with an additional 1/4" thick between the head and the frame. Should soak up some of the bad ones.
So here's the finished product for now. I need a 2" drop in the back somehow.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Remove the overload leaf and one main leaf and that will give you 2 inches.
The one thing you do not want is any amount of waffle or movement on the axle. The littlest bit of give will spit the axle out of the mount, a really bad situation as the truck scoots sideways and tumbles.
Looks good.
Garbz
The one thing you do not want is any amount of waffle or movement on the axle. The littlest bit of give will spit the axle out of the mount, a really bad situation as the truck scoots sideways and tumbles.
Looks good.
Garbz
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I was hoping to keep the ride quality somewhat stock. I'm actually debating on fabbing some rear shackles up. I can't seem to locate any online with a drop..
Have you found any?
Have you found any?
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Take out the rivets and move the rear mount up. it's an old drop trick. place it where you want the truck at. Remount with grade eights and nyloks. Re-shim the pinion angle to compensate.
It does not get any cheaper.
Garbz
It does not get any cheaper.
Garbz
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
garbz2
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
Sep 11, 2012 08:00 AM
