e4od schematics
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: back in SE Iowa
e4od schematics
ok does anyone have the schematic for an e4od.i went to put the mlps in and when i took the 15mm nut loose to swap it something popped and now its stuck in gear and the shifter just runs up and down with no resitance for different gears.any ideas cause im at wits end and about to go get a can of gasoline and a shiny new lighter
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Thats the manual control valve. Its normal for it to slide in both directions to match the position of your shift lever. Is it jambed in the valve body? or is it simply not correctly aligned with the lever?
It is supposed to slide very easily and not snag at all in the valve body bore.
It is supposed to slide very easily and not snag at all in the valve body bore.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
I don't remember exactly how far it should poke out the other side, but there is nothing internal to the valve body itself that normally can stop that valve from sliding all the way out.
I wonder what could have jambed it. Unlike most valves in the E4OD, this one is made of steel and doesn't get damaged very easily. Depending on what you find, you might get off easy with some 600 sandpaper rolled up inside the bore to cut down any burs that might be hanging up the valve. In theory, it could also be the valve is physically bent and that might mean the whole body will have to be replaced.
Is it hitting a wall in there, or does it get tighter to one end until it jambs?
I wonder what could have jambed it. Unlike most valves in the E4OD, this one is made of steel and doesn't get damaged very easily. Depending on what you find, you might get off easy with some 600 sandpaper rolled up inside the bore to cut down any burs that might be hanging up the valve. In theory, it could also be the valve is physically bent and that might mean the whole body will have to be replaced.
Is it hitting a wall in there, or does it get tighter to one end until it jambs?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Sounds like you will have to remove the lower main valve body shown here:
Make sure not to remove the 2 bolts that are still shown in that image.
once its off, you can see the valve from the inside of the main body. If there is something holding it up, it will be visible at that point.
Make sure not to remove the 2 bolts that are still shown in that image.
once its off, you can see the valve from the inside of the main body. If there is something holding it up, it will be visible at that point.
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Cargo Master
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: back in SE Iowa
sorry if im being too leary there is just a lot of doo dads in there i dont want flying everywhere and to be honest looking at the guts of a tranny is almost overwhelming.but then again this is pretty much a first for me
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
I'm not gonna advise you do something you're not familiar with but if all you do is take off the main valve body, nothing should fall out. Those 2 bolts hold the upper body attached to the lower (main) one so 2 check ***** can't fall out from there.
The rest of the check ***** are hidden behind a separator plate even after you drop the main body so those can't fall out either. None of the other valves can fall out. Each valve has its own retainer to prevent that from happening. Once you drop the main body, (no need to remove the solenoid pack or accumulator body) you remove that C clip from the manual valve and it slides out (normally). The worst part about this is the fluid that will pour out when you pop it off.
You also must have clean working conditions (at least a clean bench) as well as clean hands and be gentle with the valve body bolts. If you are not comfortable with doing this, you might be looking phoning a tranny shop. Reconditioned valve bodies are also available so you can simply swap out the whole thing but depending one what you find, you might spend as much on a whole used tranny. I got a new valve body for mine ant it works great.
The rest of the check ***** are hidden behind a separator plate even after you drop the main body so those can't fall out either. None of the other valves can fall out. Each valve has its own retainer to prevent that from happening. Once you drop the main body, (no need to remove the solenoid pack or accumulator body) you remove that C clip from the manual valve and it slides out (normally). The worst part about this is the fluid that will pour out when you pop it off.
You also must have clean working conditions (at least a clean bench) as well as clean hands and be gentle with the valve body bolts. If you are not comfortable with doing this, you might be looking phoning a tranny shop. Reconditioned valve bodies are also available so you can simply swap out the whole thing but depending one what you find, you might spend as much on a whole used tranny. I got a new valve body for mine ant it works great.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,375
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From: Mi'kma'ki
rupe don't be scared about doing this repair yourself.your not even going deep enough to install a shift kit-which really anyone can do themselves.
this sounds like and easy repair,even if you need to hit the yard and grab a VB,if that bore is warn out for the sift lever.
what your about to do is quite simple so don't worry.
(if you can spring for it,right now would be a good time for a shift kit.removing the upper section and plate is a PITA though lol.but if you take your time and don't lose any springs/check ***** etc,you can do it no problem at all.its simple,you just have to take your time,work in a VERY clean place,and follow the directions.it's all a walk in the park when you take your time.when your done,you will be happy you never have to do it again,but really only because its tedious work.not really so complicated. just a suggestion.)
this sounds like and easy repair,even if you need to hit the yard and grab a VB,if that bore is warn out for the sift lever.
what your about to do is quite simple so don't worry.
(if you can spring for it,right now would be a good time for a shift kit.removing the upper section and plate is a PITA though lol.but if you take your time and don't lose any springs/check ***** etc,you can do it no problem at all.its simple,you just have to take your time,work in a VERY clean place,and follow the directions.it's all a walk in the park when you take your time.when your done,you will be happy you never have to do it again,but really only because its tedious work.not really so complicated. just a suggestion.)
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