Wiper hose to small

 

dang.

Well you found a vacuum leak, a pretty decent one. So you gotta be able to get some rest knowing you have an idea what you are going to go after tomorow.

 

Yup thanks

My ? is why would it run fine till I out the Seafoam in?

That line has never been hooked up..i have only had the truck for about 50 miles ...but ran fine till the Seafoam and that line unhooked

 

I dunno man, where did you pour the seafoam? in the gas tank? down the carb throat past the choke plate?

I'll have to try to pick this up tomorrow.

 

Sucked it into the vac hose that goes to the PVC vavle

 

really?

Just because or?

the PCV valve is loose right? (you can shake it & it clicks?)

it's kind of a check valve, you just don't want them to stick closed.

maybe you loostened up some bad juju, I dunno what to tell ya.

but if you get your vacuum lines strung correctly, time your ignition corectly, gap the ponts correctly & set your idle mixture & idle speed corectly you chould be golden.

Oh, grab the heater hose that goes past your choke assembly & lay it in that hook by your choke dial. Your choke picks up heat off that hose, probably only important in the super cold weather but that's how it's supposed to be.

Later

 

set your idle mixture & idle speed corectly??

That I have no clue how to do

 

first off I gotta say since this is the internet please be very careful & remain very much aware of the rotating parts like the fan & all belts up in the front of the engine that will try to eat loose clothing, chop fingers off & all that.



You can set your points and your idle speed with an old fashioned dwell/tach meter.

idle mixture screws I guess I'd run em in till they are closed then go 1 1/2 turns out with them both for a starting point.

but you have to have your vacuum leaks fixed first & then check your timing & point gap, then move to the carb settings. You really should look up the timing & point specs but I'd guess that 8 to 10 degrees BTC with vac advance unplugged should be close & around 28-30 degrees on the dwell meter for your point gap.

The low idle screw is going to be on that linkage side of the carb, drivers side.
low idle speed I would think should be around 750 RPM. Just take your time with the mixture screws (the 2 screws in the lower front face of the carb base.) Screw them all the way in untill they are closed, then screw them both out... 2 full turns.

With the engine running start turning the screws in..

Go in a 1/4 with both & watch your engine RPM on the dwell tach meter. Go in with them 1/4 turn each slowly & patiently allowing for the engine to react to the adjustments. Watch the tach & keep going in with them until the RPM starts to drop off because it's starving for fuel. Then back them out a little at a time & find the sweet spot where it wants to idle at the highest RPM. If you go too lean it will starve & die, if you go too rich it will start to fatten up & become sluggish & the rpm will also drop in this case. You are basically shooting for the middle of these 2 extremes. My gramps used to find that sweet spot & then open them just a hair past that spot, like 1/8 turn open from that sweet spot.

But you can't do any of this with the engine surging & galloping all over the place.



crappy picture but this is a dwell/tach meter. I was tuning an old 289 on my daughter's mustang when I took this pic.



they will have 2 wires with aligator clips on the end. One goes to the -side of your coil & the other just gets grounded someplace. You can switch it from dwell to tach reading & they usually have differnt scales for 8 cylinder/6 cylinder etc.

pretty basic & inexpensive.

 

Dave,
Quick FYI, that dual port distributor dealie is vacuum advance and vacuum retard and which one gets vacuum and when is supposed to be controlled by a ported vacuum switch screwed into the thermostat housing. I don't remember all of the the mechanics of when and why or what it actually accomplishes but it came on many 68 to 70's-ish small blocks. I believe it was tied in with the thermactor setup on the air cleaner snorkle. If all the stuff is not there or hooked properly it won't work right and should just get swapped out for a regular single port vacuum advance can.
HTH
Gene

 

Ahhh, that makes sense Gene, makes perfectly good sense.

Yeah you can see on his upper rad hose neck there is a plug where a thermostatic vac switch probably used to be. probably a 3 port switch with the vacuum from the carb run to the center, then the cold port run to the retard side of the dist diaphram & the hot side run to the advance side?

It must have a spring in it to return to center I would think huh? might be worth trying to run the vacuum from the carb to the advance (front side) and just cap or leave the back side open? And probably just plug that line coming from the Manifold vacuum tree in back?

 

Well Hell

I went and got a hose

I hooked the one that was to the back port to the front like u said..it has the most vacuum power to it

And I hooked the back port to that nip on the side of the carb

And now it runs fine!

I also think the timing is Ok ..no missing or pinging etc

 

well that's good.

My hunch is you might do better to just plug that hose going to the vac tree in the back of the engine & run the carb vacuum line to the front of the vac advance on the dist.

It probably won't hurt anything leaving it like it is either, it's just that the carb vacuum will relax momentarily under a sudden opening of the throttle which allows your timing to fall back under an engine load. The vacuum comes back in as the airflow & engine load stabilizes to a cruise status.

 

It runs better with the hose from the back tree to the front port

 

Well it became VERY hard to start ..had to try a while and floor it

I retarded the timing just a tad by ear now it runs fine and not hard to start so far

I guess I retarded it ..I turned it counter clockwise just a bit

 

glad you got it fixed!! blowing the seafoam into the vac line might have unplugged one of those vac lines.