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New short block????

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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 02:22 PM
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New short block????

Posted up on my "Steam Locomotive" thread but will start new to get some more insight (hopefully)

Went to install the EGR delete and Oil cooler rebuild Sat and drained the oil. First thing to come out of the pan was 1-2 quarts of coolant!

How bad off am I and what do I need to do to clean this motor up and get it on its feet again? Should I just get a new shortblock at this point? That seems a little extreme but I don't feel like installing $1600 worth of parts (shipping to HI was a killer) on a motor thats going to crap out once it's back together...

TIA for any advice you can lend!

Fungus
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 04:28 PM
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The first thing is to find the source of the coolant in the oil, which may very well be the EGR cooler. Hopefully Cheezit will chime in with more insight. The parts you have are really, IMHO, necessary evils for the 6.0 motor. Coolant in the oil on a 6.0 is kind of a rare thing in my experience. Usually it's oil in the coolant from oil cooler failures since oil pressure is much higher than coolant pressure and head gaskets don't normally leak coolant into the oil on this motor.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
The first thing is to find the source of the coolant in the oil, which may very well be the EGR cooler. Hopefully Cheezit will chime in with more insight. The parts you have are really, IMHO, necessary evils for the 6.0 motor. Coolant in the oil on a 6.0 is kind of a rare thing in my experience. Usually it's oil in the coolant from oil cooler failures since oil pressure is much higher than coolant pressure and head gaskets don't normally leak coolant into the oil on this motor.
Well, that being said I'm feeling a little better. NO oil in the coolant whatsoever and the degas bottle has never "puked". I've got it apart now and rebuilding the oil cooler and installing the River City EGR delete kit. New Flowmaster turbo back exhaust and Dieselite coolant filter going on as well. Just ordered all new fuel, oil (x4 incase I need to flush) and air filters. Is there a procedure for flushing the engine oil? Do I need any kind of cleaners/ additives for the process?

Once it started billowing white smoke from the exhaust, I drove it about 6 miles straight home and parked it. Still a strong running motor so I'd think with some flushing it should be fine.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 06:11 PM
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Oil is a hell of a lot heavier than coolant. It shouldn't have been anywhere near the bottom of the oil pan. That doesn't make any sense.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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Hopefully that coolant leaked into the oil after the engine was shut down and that your draining operation removed it from the engine. Once an oil and anti-freeze mix gets circulated through an engine, bearing damage can soon follow. If your oil was not milky-white in color you should be OK.

Water (and anti-freeze) is heavier than oil. This makes it easy to drain since it goes to the bottom of the sump.

The real experts here can probably pinpoint the source of the anti-freeze. From your description it is likely the EGR cooler. While the engine was operating all of the coolant went out the exhaust. Once the engine was shut down, pressure from the coolant system would allow coolant to enter the engine through the egr system. That coolant could end up in the oil pan.

Lou Braun
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Lou Braun
Hopefully that coolant leaked into the oil after the engine was shut down and that your draining operation removed it from the engine. Once an oil and anti-freeze mix gets circulated through an engine, bearing damage can soon follow. If your oil was not milky-white in color you should be OK.

Water (and anti-freeze) is heavier than oil. This makes it easy to drain since it goes to the bottom of the sump.

The real experts here can probably pinpoint the source of the anti-freeze. From your description it is likely the EGR cooler. While the engine was operating all of the coolant went out the exhaust. Once the engine was shut down, pressure from the coolant system would allow coolant to enter the engine through the egr system. That coolant could end up in the oil pan.

Lou Braun
In regularily checking the dipstick I never saw any mixing. The dipstick would always check clean, that's to say it was never milky as I've seen that before on other rigs. This motor has always run strong and continued to do so right up to me shutting it down for repair. That makes more sense to me in what I saw as far as the coolant leaking down into the crank case...

Thanks Lou.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Lou Braun
Hopefully that coolant leaked into the oil after the engine was shut down and that your draining operation removed it from the engine. Once an oil and anti-freeze mix gets circulated through an engine, bearing damage can soon follow. If your oil was not milky-white in color you should be OK.

Water (and anti-freeze) is heavier than oil. This makes it easy to drain since it goes to the bottom of the sump.

The real experts here can probably pinpoint the source of the anti-freeze. From your description it is likely the EGR cooler. While the engine was operating all of the coolant went out the exhaust. Once the engine was shut down, pressure from the coolant system would allow coolant to enter the engine through the egr system. That coolant could end up in the oil pan.

Lou Braun

Correct... Water is heavier than oil and will settle to the bottom of the oil pan.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Troy Buenger
Correct... Water is heavier than oil and will settle to the bottom of the oil pan.
100% correct. If oil was heavier you would never see an oil slick when these ships leak oil.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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From your description it sounds like the coolant in the oil WAS a post shutdown event. Probably from a catastrophic EGR cooler failure maybe? If your oil wasn't creamy as previously described then you should be OK to go. You might want to remove the glowplugs and crank over the motor to make sure any coolant that MIGHT be standing on the pistons doesn't hydrolock your motor. That might be overkill but it's better than bending a rod for sure and a lot easier than overhauling a motor.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 12:47 PM
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Thanks for the insight fellas. Would you recommend flushing the engine oil system? If so, is there a link to a procedure? Any kind of detergent recommended or just motor oil?

Thanks again,
Fungus
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 01:05 PM
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I am confused. How would a bad EGR cooler get coolant into the oil? The EGR cooler never sees oil I thought? Cooolant went past the rings maybe after sitting a long time? A bad oil cooler at or near shutdown? Granted they both should be replace/ deleted/ rebuilt anyways, just wondering for myself.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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sorry I missed this yesterday.

drain the oil, replace the oil. I have not seen any damage as of yet from this in a 6.0.

the coolant gets in to the pan bast the rings in a vapor state the returns to liquid as it cools.
really not a big deal. If I were really worried about it I would drive 500 miles and change the oil again. that is after the repair if the egr cooler issue.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by cheezit
sorry I missed this yesterday.

drain the oil, replace the oil. I have not seen any damage as of yet from this in a 6.0.

the coolant gets in to the pan bast the rings in a vapor state the returns to liquid as it cools.
really not a big deal. If I were really worried about it I would drive 500 miles and change the oil again. that is after the repair if the egr cooler issue.
Thanks Cheezit! I'll get'er all back together and drive it for awhile and recheck. You just boosted my Early Bronco budget back up!

Fungus
 
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