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I hopped in the truck this morning to go to work and............
Nada, zip, nothing, not even a click.
DEAD battery.
And I just got home @ 1:30am indicating charging @ 13+V with bright lights.
Before anyone asks....
I have determined I have a +/-4.86A draw, key out.
I have pulled each fuse in turn and no difference noted.
I have upgraded to a 130A 3G alternator so that #$%@ plug is not the problem (this time)
The lighter, interior lights and door switches seem to function normally. Amperage draw -effect- seems normal for these functions.
Radio functions normally.
How are you measuring the parasitic draw (a lot of multi meters won't handle that much current for very long)?
When the battery is fully charged, what is the voltage on it with the everything off?
Have you measured the voltage of the individual cells of the battery? (Pop the vent caps off the battery, and stick the voltmeter probes into the acid of adjacent cells--get readings from all 6 pairs--1-2, 2-3, 3-4, etc.)
You pulled one fuse at a time or pulled all the fuses? both?
Did you disconnect the fuseable links one at a time to see if that made a difference? or just pull the relays?
I take it the fuel pumps quit when you turn off the key?
Maybe the eec relay is hung up, feeding it all the time?
The EEC relay fuselink is "brown", located at the fender mounted starter relay. Be easier to just remove the relay to test it. You should identify it by the blue fuseable link connected to it.
The eec and several other things under the hood would be getting power that shouldn't be key "off" if its sticking.
Sometimes the dirt and oily film on top of the batteries will conduct enough electricity to drain the battery over time. Clean the top of your battery, wipe off any oily film and maybe rinse with baking soda water on a towel. DO NOT GET THIS INTO THE CELLS.
There are often other fuses in trucks. Don't know your model but there may be a fuse box under the hood with more fuses. Check those. Usually a black plastic box somewhere near the fire wall or battery.
4.86 amps is a pretty heavy draw so something is wrong, but you know that.
Old battery is fine once charged and load tested. 850CCA 12.97V at rest, disconnected.
Removed one fuse at a time.
I will start removing fuseable links tomorrow. I am racing around today.
NO electric fuel pumps, just mechanical.
MeterMan 33X? meter, good to 10A
Sealed battery, no way to check individual cells.
No EEC that I know of, just a DSII box on the fenderwell.
Old battery is fine once charged and load tested. 850CCA 12.97V at rest, disconnected.
Removed one fuse at a time.
I will start removing fuseable links tomorrow. I am racing around today.
NO electric fuel pumps, just mechanical.
MeterMan 33X? meter, good to 10A
Sealed battery, no way to check individual cells.
No EEC that I know of, just a DSII box on the fenderwell.
Oh didn't catch that in your sig, you got one of them carbed models like I got!
No no eec and no electric fuel pumps, need to rethink it see if something else comes to mind.
My 87 just sits in the back field now, haven't done anything with it in a few years now.
It ran fine when I drove it back there, doubt it even start now.
He has an ECU & is either OBD-1 or MCU. It should have a relay for the ECU but it would be referred to as the PCM relay. They are sometimes camouflaged by a rubber protective cover & usually have a brown base. It is not uncommon for their power contacts to fuse closed, especially if the key is in the ON position a lot (Like running accessories while the engine is not running, w/ key in the ON position rather than the ACC position). I've also seen Starter solenoids bleed through voltage. Not enough to provoke the starter into operation, but enough to cause a Battery drain.
Will check the solenoid tomrrow.
I'll also disconnect the alternator, but it is less than a year old.
Never seen any other engine management, and I have had the truck to bits.
I'll look for any relays I may have missed.
ardwrkn, don't forget that along with the fuses there are some little tin can lookin circuit breakers too. Pull the breakers one at a time.
My f150 doesnt have another fuse box under the hood, but it does have 4 or 5 fuse links under the hood on the passenger side front fender. Follow the big red battery cable, and it will go to the starter relay. There you will see the other smaller wires that are fuse links. Lift them one at a time and see if it is one of them.
by chance do you park on a steep hill and have a light under the hood that comes on when you raise the hood or have a glove compartment light? wait until dark and look under the truck for a light or get in the cab and shut the door and look under the dash.
Normal drain with the key off is a few milliamps. a 10 amp meter will show close to zero.