For the e4od people! read this!
#1
For the e4od people! read this!
Got curious about my truck the other day, I was having problems with my e4od going into limp mode and what I thought was a slipping torque converter (dropping in and out of overdrive at around 2,000 rpm). The guy at advance autoparts told me that the throttle position sensor had nothing to do with the transmission, But I replaced it anyway....and guess what? IT WORKED HAHAHA....eat that ford dealers! The part is about $33 and takes 5 minutes to replace. As far as I could tell, there was no adjustments needed either. So, Im back on the road, and my truck kicks rear once again!
#4
ahhh, yeeaaah....
Yup, the TPI (FIPL, that is) has a lot to do with the E4OD, it and the Vehicle Speed Sensor control the whole works! Very first thing to look at in the case of erratic operation, & check the connector... Calibration is 1.25V @ lo idle. Four sensors - FIPL, VSS, Eng RPM, Selector lever pos - are most important.
#7
FIPL Sensor
This is for control of the electronic transmission. "Throttle position" is a misnomer (Diesels don't have a throttle), but accepted because it means the same thing - how far the accelerator pedal is pressed, which tells the TCU how much the engine is loaded, an important factor in determining when to shift. On mechanically controlled transmissions this function is done by the vacuum modulator, but diesels don't generate any significant vacuum, and what there is doesn't relate to the load. The earlier models with C6's had a rather troublesome mechanism to convert fuel position to a vacuum signal.
The sensor is located on the right side of the IP, looking from the front of the engine, and has a 3-wire connector plugged into it. It mounts and adjusts with two torx screws. With age, the female terminals in the harness connector spread apart and make poor connections, this is a frequent cause of trouble. You can use a small screwdriver tip to release each terminal from the housing then gently squeeze it back into shape with pliers and reinsert. I think dealers as well as parts stores have repair connectors available. I'd check the connector before buying a new sensor, as well as when replacing the sensor. I don't have my books in front of me, and can't ID the wires from memory, but it's not hard with a multimeter. One is ground, and should be black or bk/wht. Another is 5 volts from the TCU, and will read this with the key on, and the remaining one is the signal, which will have a range of aprox. 1 to 4.6 volts, and should be adjusted to 1.25V at idle. This setting is important for both shift point and pressure control. Another potential issue reported in a Ford service note is poor chassis ground connection on this circuit (TCU ground). Ground integrity to the trans case itself can also be an issue.
Hope that's helpful to somebody.....
"If you can't afford to do it right, how the heck will you pay for doing it over????"
The sensor is located on the right side of the IP, looking from the front of the engine, and has a 3-wire connector plugged into it. It mounts and adjusts with two torx screws. With age, the female terminals in the harness connector spread apart and make poor connections, this is a frequent cause of trouble. You can use a small screwdriver tip to release each terminal from the housing then gently squeeze it back into shape with pliers and reinsert. I think dealers as well as parts stores have repair connectors available. I'd check the connector before buying a new sensor, as well as when replacing the sensor. I don't have my books in front of me, and can't ID the wires from memory, but it's not hard with a multimeter. One is ground, and should be black or bk/wht. Another is 5 volts from the TCU, and will read this with the key on, and the remaining one is the signal, which will have a range of aprox. 1 to 4.6 volts, and should be adjusted to 1.25V at idle. This setting is important for both shift point and pressure control. Another potential issue reported in a Ford service note is poor chassis ground connection on this circuit (TCU ground). Ground integrity to the trans case itself can also be an issue.
Hope that's helpful to somebody.....
"If you can't afford to do it right, how the heck will you pay for doing it over????"