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Hello all! I'm looking to crossover from FE's to the 385 series. I just picked up my first 460 engine today. My neighbor had two sitting in his backyard. The engine was not covered and I was wondering should I worry about the condition of the engine. The good part is that the engine was free.
Since I'm new to the 385 family of engines, the numbers are not familiar to me. The block is a D1VE-6015-A2B and the heads are D0VE-C. Can anyone give me any information about those parts? The intake is a 2-barrel but I plan on switching to an RPM intake.
My plans are to install the motor in a '76 F100. As of now, my F100 has a 390 with a C6 that was freshly rebuilt. Are there any parts that can be used from my current setup on a 460? I would like a stout 460 but keep it streetable. I'm looking for all the help you can give. Thanks in advance!
Since I'm new to the 385 family of engines, the numbers are not familiar to me. The block is a D1VE-6015-A2B and the heads are D0VE-C. Can anyone give me any information about those parts? The intake is a 2-barrel but I plan on switching to an RPM intake.
My plans are to install the motor in a '76 F100. As of now, my F100 has a 390 with a C6 that was freshly rebuilt. Are there any parts that can be used from my current setup on a 460? I would like a stout 460 but keep it streetable. I'm looking for all the help you can give. Thanks in advance!
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If you have a good 390 why are you wanting a 460 ? You are about to get 4 grand or better into a build,transmission, and all the parts for a swap. Save that money and optimize what you have. Unless you have a donor truck it will take a year to find all the parts.
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My 390 is not too bad but I'm looking for more bang for the buck. I can keep doing more to my 390 and wondering how much stronger a 460 would feel or I can make the change and remove all doubt. Plus, I have plans for my current 390. What parts do you think will take years to find?
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If you want a correct swap there is.. motor, matching bellhousing transmission,motor mount towers,radiator,shroud,all accessory brackets pullies etc. .The list will nickel and dime your budget to death without a donor. I have done the swap in my 67 swb and like it, but just be aware that you are talking about an entire drivetrain swap. Every time you have to hunt down a bracket or hose it will be 10-20 dollars and the time and expense of locating individual pieces. Added expenses often overlooked will be new exhaust that doesn't come out in the right place now. You might be able to use your existing driveshaft.. Just don't expext this to be a weekend swap unless you have everything on hand. If you still want to do it, tell us about your current motor, and expectations for the 460. What do you want is ultimately the question if time and money are not the primary concern. I have morphed through a mild 429 build to a stout 460. They are two totally different animals because of the parts selected. There is always compromise.
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Well, my current motor (390) is just a mild build. I have a Comp 270, Edel RPM intake, Holley 750, 2000 stall, and 3.89 gears.
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My current build is a 460 with Dove heads. Compression is 10.5:1. Heads have been ported(by me) converted to screw in studs,hardened seats on intake and exhaust. Valve sizes are now 2.19 and 1.76. Roller rockers and roller timing set for straight up cam timing. (pre '73). I am running headers and a Weiand stealth intake. I am using a holley 4160 750 cfm carb. I am pretty sure it is undercarbed but still pulls to 6 grand easy. Ignition is duraspark. I would recommend a similar build up to this point. It is almost universally beneficial to performance in a street vehicle. The cam is a Crane hyd. roller Pn. 359341. Here is where personal goals and compromise comes in. This cam is in my opinion is the limit to be able to enjoy the truck without serious compromise in streetability. The specs are deceiving.It does not behave at all like I expected. With a stock convertor, 3.50 gears and 4200 lbs it seems soggy down low. It really needs a looser converter. Once you get rolling the power explodes from 2600 till redline. It wants to rev and the hp and torque climb linearly. The numbers look great on desktop dyno, but what happens below 2000 rpm really impact normal driving.
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After a little research on my backyard find, I don't have a 460. It's really a 429. Your setup sounds great. I'm partial to the Edelbrock intakes. I would like to use the Performer RPM intake and cam. I plan on using a 2000-2500 stall and keep my 3.89's if possible. I have a Mallory Unilite on my 390 and it's not bad so I plan on buying one for my new build. More than anything, I want to keep my truck streetable!
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You might be onto something regarding the intakes. Over at the ford460 site there are reports of the Stealth intake causing soggy performance down low. I originally ran a SCJ factory intake on my 429 build. When I swapped to the Stealth I noticed a loss of torque below 3000 rpm. Without a dyno I can't be sure but it felt better over 3000 rpm than before. My dissappointment in torque could be a symptom of intake choice. I plugged the performer rpm cam numbers in Desktop Dyno and compared against my build. The power and torque trajectories look nearly identical,but it is hard to be sure since one is a roller and the other flat tappet. Their ramps are way different. The roller may have higher numbers, but the power band is similar.
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That opens up a new can of questions! Roller vs Flat tappet. What are the pros and cons of running either? Is there a major price difference? If so, are the performance gains worth spending the extra money?
Back to your Stealth. Is that a dual plane or single? I used to have a StreetMaster on my 390 and it was real sluggish on the bottom end. When I switched to an RPM the truck felt totally different on the bottom end. Plus, adding a 2000 stall really made it feel strong.
Back to your Stealth. Is that a dual plane or single? I used to have a StreetMaster on my 390 and it was real sluggish on the bottom end. When I switched to an RPM the truck felt totally different on the bottom end. Plus, adding a 2000 stall really made it feel strong.
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That opens up a new can of questions! Roller vs Flat tappet. What are the pros and cons of running either? Is there a major price difference? If so, are the performance gains worth spending the extra money?
Back to your Stealth. Is that a dual plane or single? I used to have a StreetMaster on my 390 and it was real sluggish on the bottom end. When I switched to an RPM the truck felt totally different on the bottom end. Plus, adding a 2000 stall really made it feel strong.
Back to your Stealth. Is that a dual plane or single? I used to have a StreetMaster on my 390 and it was real sluggish on the bottom end. When I switched to an RPM the truck felt totally different on the bottom end. Plus, adding a 2000 stall really made it feel strong.
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I haven't built one. More cubes will actually make it idle better and have more power everywhere if you have enough head flow. You will need to upgrade your rods to the truck style rods for any serious build and you are buying pistons. I would think a crankshaft is the only part left to upgrade and get more cubes. I basically swapped cranks and pistons to make my 429 a 460.
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Actually, if I went the 521 route, I would just bye a stroker kit. That would include new crank, rods, pistons, and etc. I've been checking on prices and it's not looking too bad to go the stroker route. If I kept the current bottom end, after getting everything revamped/reconditioned, I might save $500-$600. I'm not in a major rush to build so I think it's worth spending the extra on stroking. As they say, "No replacement for displacement!". I want to find out for myself. I can see this turning into a blow the budget project.
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