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oil stumped

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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 06:49 PM
  #31  
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no ran great
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #32  
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it died at friends house since that i put in pump,sensor,distri. cant figure damn thing out
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 06:59 PM
  #33  
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replace the modual over on the fender, on the driver's side, right above the computer wireing hook up. it takes a special wrench to change it, they sell it in the tool section of any parts supplier, and make sure if your modual is black, replace it with a black one.gray with gray one. be sure to put the dielectric grease on the back of it when you put it back together
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 07:16 PM
  #34  
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happen to know the name of it? above my computer wiring harness nothing there but the eec.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 08:01 PM
  #35  
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subscribing to this one i get the same thing i installed a mechanical gauge and thats a pretty scary thing to drop down, i notice when cold its about 40 psi when warm 20 reeving up then it just takes a crap and goes to 0 at idle. no dieing tho
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 08:08 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by rick-73
happen to know the name of it? above my computer wiring harness nothing there but the eec.
look to the right, on the fender, in an aluminum heat sink
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 08:12 PM
  #37  
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the module that looks like a mini amplifier? thought was the computer.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 08:13 PM
  #38  
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ya mine goes to zero then just dies. its stupid and dumb! lol
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 08:24 PM
  #39  
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you talking bout the TFI modules that sits right below the diagnostic self test?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by rick-73
you talking bout the TFI modules that sits right below the diagnostic self test?
Yea that is what he's talking about, could be the problem but could be a connection issue too.

You can have the module tested, keep in mind a bad one can test "good", but if it is truly bad the test should confirm that without any problem.

Problem with the test is it may only quit working when its good and hot but work fine other then that, the test may not push it enough to get it hot.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:45 AM
  #41  
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well that would be a good reason cause it only does it when its hot. thnx will let ya know after i change it out!
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #42  
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that was dead on with the ignition module! now gotta retime it misses a lil from timing with old module! thnx guys!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 06:17 PM
  #43  
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cool deal. glad we could help!!!!
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 06:39 PM
  #44  
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Not sure if your still getting the oil pressure flux. if so, run Seafoam in the oil to improve portway flow! When you replace your PIP sensor (which you did when replaced the distributor), the TFI module should be replaced at the same time anyway.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 07:08 PM
  #45  
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rick-73,

Yea good deal, happiness is a running engine!!

Duramaxfanatic1,

subscribing to this one i get the same thing i installed a mechanical gauge and thats a pretty scary thing to drop down, i notice when cold its about 40 psi when warm 20 reeving up then it just takes a crap and goes to 0 at idle. no dieing tho


Based on what you said so far yours is going to be excessive clearances at some or all the engine bearings, its just to much space for oil to make up for.
The oil literally falls out around the journals leaving little to make it to the gauge for a final reading.
The oil pressure reading is "end result", what flow/pressure is left over after sent through lubing the engine. A high volume oil pump can and will help the condition some but new bearings/rebuild are the better option.

You might even hear 2, 3 low knocks quickly tapering off in intensity after first starting the motor cold, but you might not yet either.

More history on the motor might shed more light on it but if its higher or very high mileage motor that had moderate maintenance over its life that's probably what is going on with it.

Oh and it could be valve seals clogging the pump screen, a sign that is a problem would be blue smoke out the tail pipe when the motor is cold, quitting once the motor is up to running temp, then blowing smoke again during moderate / heavy deceleration.
 
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