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ill try get a new one tomorrow. got it pulled already looking to see if the oilpump rod was broke but its good. the bottom gear tho on dit. pretty goudged hope thats it!
did nothing yet just seen pulled it and noticed it. so itll be after i replaced oil pump. should i replace whole distributor or can i just change that gear?
did nothing yet just seen pulled it and noticed it. so itll be after i replaced oil pump. should i replace whole distributor or can i just change that gear?
How many miles on it?
The bushings in a dizzy wear over time, that creates timing fluctuations if bad enough.
It also has the PIP (profile ignition pickup) inside it, it can be known to cause issues similar to what you experience. Stalls out, wait a while and it will start again, then stalls again wait starts again etc etc.
PIP can be replaced while you have the dizzy out.
I don't know at this point that that is the problem you have, just wanted to point that out.
A whole new dizzy may be the better way to go.
Again, a complete lack of oil and or oil pressure will not prevent the motor from running. It doesn't know if it has oil or pressure or not. So that is not what causes your motor to stall, you have something else causing that.
look on the firewall above the heater, a rectangle with wires and a hose, hose goes to the plenum with the rest. I had an 89 blow a motor mount 1 time pulling the travel trailer, it ran just like that until I got home and found it had pulled the hose off, ran great, but would not idle at all.
Check Engine Light on or not doesn't matter, the KOER and CM tests may lead you to the problem.
However if you disconnected the battery the CM has been cleared and will no longer be able to help you. The KOER test will be your only real hope of the computer helping you out.
Then its to the basic simple quick tests to narrow down what system is the failure,
Key "on" power to the positive side of the coil? crank position? (red-light green wire)
Does it have spark? Pull a plug, does it spark during "crank"?
Pump any fuel? Do you hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds then quit when the key is turned to the "run" position? If not you should.
If so how much pressure at the fuel rail?
Hold your hand on the fuel rail, feel the injectors pulsing during crank?
Check some of that over and let us know the results, you may find a problem before getting through the short list.
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