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Please help! 96 350 with 460 which we just rebuilt. After finding that my distributer was 180 out,I corrected problem,only to find that my engine doesn't want to crank over even when I'm using jumper cables,as I thought the problem may have been the battery (it's not). Stater will rotate maybe for a second,then it gets weaker and weaker.I'm at a loss...any idea's? Thanks
Thank you for the reply. I'm sure it's not the battery,and the stater is very new (I know that doesn't mean alot these days) I will check all my connections just to make sure,although it didn't have this problem before I moved the disturter 180.
I checked all the conections --battery,block,starter and all are good and tight. A friend of mine that is overseas,says I might be a "Tooth off" ,but the phone connection went bad before he could explain this to me.-Would that put such a drag on the starter?
If your timing is off, it could also cause this problem. Trying moving the distributor around a little bit while it's cranking. Once the engine is running you can set the timing with a light.
AndyM,Thanks,I tried doing this last night nigt after reading your post to no avail.I turned it both forward and backwards but could never get engine to turn over fast enough.I also took stater off and had it tested and it works fine???????
Battery cables are good? How old are they? Is the plastic coating cracked or dried out? If the cables are corroded internally it will have a hard time starting. Are the battery terminals and posts clean?
Andy, thanks for the help....the timing gears were installed correctly with the dots facing each other..I had engine running after putting back together,only to find that I had little power due to the fact that the distruter was 180 out.After fixing this by making sure I was at TDC on the combustion stoke and roter was pointing to # 1 on cap,I tried to start engine but can't get it to turn over for more than a second. I'll check again to see if the cables are corroded,but it would crank before I reset the timing.---Thanks for your input
Battery cables are good? How old are they? Is the plastic coating cracked or dried out? If the cables are corroded internally it will have a hard time starting. Are the battery terminals and posts clean?
Battery cables are good? How old are they? Is the plastic coating cracked or dried out? If the cables are corroded internally it will have a hard time starting. Are the battery terminals and posts clean?
With the starter off the vehicle, try to wiggle the shaft up and down perpendicular to where the drive gear. There is a little bushing/bearing that will wear and let the rotating part of the starter drag. It may be worn oval so wiggle it side to side at least 12, 1, 2, and 3 oclock positions. The starter will usually run fine like a scalded dog off the vehicle and you will think it is good. But that worn bearing can cause the starter to drag when mounted on the vehicle.
The little starter relay on the fender can also cause a similar problem as the contacts pit and wear. The battery cable goes to this relay then off the other side of it to the starter. In a pinch I have taken them apart and flipped the copper washer over and rotated the studs to get better contact. They used to have screws holding them together. Now they have rivets.
A bad connection to the battery post can cause your problem. Clean the terminals to get the soft shiney lead on both the cable and post Put on some battery terminal grease and those red and green felt washers. If the post is a dark gray to black color, it may have a hard crusty like feel. I sometimes have to use my pocket knife as a scraper to get the hard oxide off. Those handy terminal brushes wont remove that hard oxide sometimes.
You guys were right!!! while the stater tested good off the truck,it wasn't worth a damn when hooked up tp the fly wheel.Luckly,I had a lifetime on the starter!!! Thanks guys...if you ever make it out to Virginia Beach,look me up and I'll buy you a beer