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wrench light?????what does it mean???

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Old May 13, 2010 | 08:13 PM
  #31  
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98SurplusExpy
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Originally Posted by nylyon
Well, I went and did it anyway. Bought a new oil temperature sensor and put it in. Very simple job to do. No difference for me.
Yeah ... I'm not getting my hopes up. I think the Tech was just feeding me a line of shat 'cause they had just did the whole oil cooler/egr cooler job. In fact, I think it would be more likely a thermostat issue rather than a defective oil temp sending unit.

My code is the "P012F" for the oil cooler efficiency .. I just can't come to terms with it. My oil cooler/egr cooler has less than 2k miles on it!!
 
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Old May 14, 2010 | 07:00 AM
  #32  
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Mine has less than 400 miles and it was running that way within 50 miles of changing it. I had replaced the thermostat, my ECT are now 190, but the EOT's went higher as well. I'm at a loss what could be causing the EOT's to still be higher? Cheezit, have you seen situations like this before?
 
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Old May 14, 2010 | 07:06 AM
  #33  
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Um, before you go any further.... a complete computer reset will often cause the sensors to be internally recalibrated...

Often, this work magic.
 
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Old May 14, 2010 | 07:39 AM
  #34  
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When I did my cooler, I had the batteries disconnected for 24 hours, does that do a complete computer reset, or is there another method to do this?
 
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Old May 14, 2010 | 08:03 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by nylyon
When I did my cooler, I had the batteries disconnected for 24 hours, does that do a complete computer reset, or is there another method to do this?
It should have.

But if you are in doubt, method is below.... turn on headlight to drain capacitors.
 
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Old May 14, 2010 | 09:30 AM
  #36  
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I've reset the computer. No time to take it for a drive just yet. I am leaving my Edge disconnected until the computer does some learning, then I will hook it up and check the temps.
 
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Old May 14, 2010 | 04:48 PM
  #37  
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there are very few t-stat failers as well, we just dont see it here. Ive had 2 turcks with p012f both varified oil cooler issues.
a t-stat fail sould cause ect to kind of bounce as it tries to open and close. a ect or eot sensor can be tested for bias when cold soaked overnight. they should read close to IAT2.
Do not compair it to IAT1 because the heater element in the maf sensor.
 
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Old May 14, 2010 | 05:04 PM
  #38  
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cheez

I had a thermostat "failure" that did precisely that... caused the temp gauge to bounce up and down.

I basically "exercised" it a bit (hot temperatures, cool) and whatever it was that was causing it to stick cleared.

No part replaced.
 
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Old May 14, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
cheez

I had a thermostat "failure" that did precisely that... caused the temp gauge to bounce up and down.

I basically "exercised" it a bit (hot temperatures, cool) and whatever it was that was causing it to stick cleared.

No part replaced.

a word of wisdom. the issues with the 6.4l radiators failing, egr cooler issues, and front cover cavatation has been linked to that concern. I think the $25 part may warrant replacment based soly on that alone.
 
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Old May 14, 2010 | 09:32 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by cheezit
there are very few t-stat failers as well, we just dont see it here. Ive had 2 turcks with p012f both varified oil cooler issues.
But even after the egr & oil cooler have recently been replaced? They re-clog that quick?
 
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Old May 14, 2010 | 10:21 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 98SurplusExpy
But even after the egr & oil cooler have recently been replaced? They re-clog that quick?
it is possible.
but you are focused on a time frame of days, and months nither of wich have any bearing. the focus should be on engine hours and milage. has the op check for things like atf, fuel, oil in the degas jug? was the engine really flushed with vc9? has the maintance been done at 5k or 200 hours as it should be? Did who ever that worked on the truck really replace the oil cooler? after all how do you think new oil cooler kits wind up on ebay? Most are not listed by the good tech fairy.
My .02
 
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Old May 14, 2010 | 10:30 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by cheezit
Did who ever that worked on the truck really replace the oil cooler? after all how do you think new oil cooler kits wind up on ebay? Most are not listed by the good tech fairy.
My .02
That's a shame..I hope Expy doesn't find that to be true.
 
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Old May 15, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by cheezit
it is possible.
but you are focused on a time frame of days, and months nither of wich have any bearing. the focus should be on engine hours and milage. has the op check for things like atf, fuel, oil in the degas jug? was the engine really flushed with vc9? has the maintance been done at 5k or 200 hours as it should be? Did who ever that worked on the truck really replace the oil cooler? after all how do you think new oil cooler kits wind up on ebay? Most are not listed by the good tech fairy.
My .02
I know in my case the oil cooler was replaced, the system was flushed with VC-9 and with less than 500 miles (now) on my new oil cooler I have a 25 degree temperature difference. From the initial drive (less than 1 hour) the temp diffs were higher than I would have expected. I don't really mind putting in another oil cooler (it's the fight with the wife that would kill me more) but I do want to exhaust all other possibilities before doing that. I'm not a tech, but I have a difficult time thinking that the oil cooler could plug up that quickly especially considering the careful attention to detail that I put in ahead of time, but I've been wrong many times before.
 
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Old May 15, 2010 | 03:38 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by cheezit
a word of wisdom. the issues with the 6.4l radiators failing, egr cooler issues, and front cover cavatation has been linked to that concern. I think the $25 part may warrant replacment based soly on that alone.


Hmmm... ok it is on my to do list with the coolant change.

Since that time it acted up (one of the first warm days after a very cold winter), it has behaved fine.

Not a single recurrence.
 
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Old May 15, 2010 | 05:22 PM
  #45  
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nylyon you may want to test the belt and vdf for correct function. to do so active command pid fanvar#, moniter pids fanss and rpm. fanss should be greater then rpm.
 
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