I have a box full of motor parts. Supposed to be from a '63 Galaxy but I'm not sure what it was. Block C3AE 6015H Rods C1AE-B Piston C1AE-B 6110 Heads C8AE Crank 2U and 3 (on adjacent offset,closest to snout) The question is, do these parts belong together? And what will I have if I put it back together? I was told it was a 390 by the previous owner and I want to replace the 360 that's in my truck. I know I already made a mistake because the old block lacks the 2 mount holes that the newer blocks have. I am hoping I can fab a mount to work? Thanks for all the knowledge and help that is so freely givin here!

 

Looks like 1960-352HP rods should measure for certain. Block could either be 352 or 390, 352 std bore =4.00, 390 std bore 4.05, if you are going to bore engine this does not matter you can use either block or you could use your 360 with the corrrect motor mount holes. Piston I have nothing on. crank should be 66-73 390. Looks like you have most of the parts for a good 390 just check the length of your rods, there are only two lengths, the long one is the 6.540 center to center this fits the 332 352 360 and the 361. Then there were the short rods, 6.488 c to c for the 390 406 410 427 and 428. It does show a foot note about the 60 352hp rods that have wider beams and 13/32 bolts, but if so these will not work for a 390, most 352 rods are very small beams I wonder if someone grabbed them thinking that they were long rods because of their heavy beam.

 

Can there be two different size rods with the same part number? The post moved all the part numbers together and made it hard to see ....Block C3AE 6015H..........Rod C1AE-B ...............Piston C1AE-6110.....Crank 2U 3.

 

No there will not be different rods with the same casting number. First thing you want to start with is the bore size, are the pistons still on the rods? Does the pistons fit in the holes? Do you have rod and main bearings, can you mock the engine and see where the piston sits at tdc. I have seen so many different assortments of FE engine parts in boxes that are not what someone says it is. The 352 HO rod is only .052 longer and should be a good rod but I do not understand why it would be in a 390, unless they were trying to raise the compression. The only other thing that you should be concerned about is the compression height of the piston, if you are going to buy new pistons you will want to keep this in mind. Using different rods with different compression heights with different strokes come up with different compression rations. Hope this helps you.

 

The difference in the motor mount hole arrangement, is the difference between a truck block and a car block. Unless you are a machinist I would not attempt converting it to fit your truck.
Even then I believe I read some where the car block is a bad choice to convert into your truck.

 

The Pre 65 blocks were 2 bolt and the 65 and later uses 3 bolt. truck or car makes no difference. The other change was eilier (1963) but was in camshaft retention. If the block uses a thrust plate (63 later) or if the timing cover has a spring that keeps the cam from coming forward(older). I have heard that the eilier blocks are thicker theirfore perhaps better to run but that might be a rumor. If you are going to change to a two bolt block you should be able to make plates to do this Hot Rod used a 2 bolt for their 450 hp motor and were going to put in a newer truck. I donot think it would require a machinest to do this, you would not mess with the block you would change motor mounts or pads mounts. Hope this helps

 

67 428 Fairlane Ranchero I beileve treasurehtr24k is refering to the FT block. The only reason a Car block would not be a good choice is becuase of possibly thinner walls. As far as P/U's go a car block is recomended in mnost cases becuase it has a higher comp ratio. and hence makes more power. But even in a heavy truck a car block would not be a bad choice persay. If you were using it to run from coast to coast, hauling major loads, then it may not be a good choice. But, then again if you were doing that with a FT then you are asking for problems no matter what.


Scotty

 

Scotty1,I do not understand what part on a FT block would you have to take to a machinest to convert to use in a truck, I could see it if we were talking about the crank, ballancer, and flywheel, but the block? When you refer to a FT block are we talking about a reverse 105 block, or the block with no numbers (rev 105 nor 352), I am asuming this. There is nobody around were I live that has a sonic tester to test block thickness so I have reverted to using drill bits through the freeze plugs, and heresay of other guys that have built 428's, out of other than 428 blocks, and the guys that have done it(bored blocks to 428) have told me that all of the 2-bolt blocks were all the same casting thickness(except for core shift I have figured out), and that they can all be bored to 428 bore I would not do this without a sonic test, but I do not have a 2-bolt block to compare to my other blocks. I have a 105 block a 410 block a 360 block and a std (352) 390 block, with a drill bit they all measure the same exept for the 360 block it is the thinnest. They are all 3-bolt blocks. I would be very carefull to think that any certain block is thicker than anyother without sonic testing. The rev 105 does have the extra main webbing. Cool. Oh ya there were no FT blocks ever made with 2-bolt. the FT engines were designed after the chang to 3-bolt acording to Steve Christ FE book. correct me if I am wrong and I am sure someone will. Thanks guys I enjoy talking with you all, even if we are all wrong. sorg76F250 have we answered any or all of your questions.

 

Thanks for all the replys. I'm going to get that book by Steve Christ. I've never built or even swapped a motor but I want to do it. I wished I knew about the mounting hole revision before I bought it. I recently relocated all the parts and I oiled them up and cataloged all the part numbers. I think I'm going to try and do some of oiling mods myself,and if I don't mess the block up I'll get it tested to see what it's capable of. I need to get a caliper or something to measure things with too, any sugestions ? I'm always checking in to learn more about my Ford Truck and motor. Thanks again.

 

67 428 Fairlane Ranchero

I am not going to lie to you i didn't read your entire post, to long for me. What I was refering to was that ALOT, not all, did not use standard motor mounts. They were mounted at least in the front by a plate that went from the front part of the motor to the frame. Doing away with one motor mount. I believe the plate was on the front pass. side of engine compartment. I am not sure what treasurehtr24k was acttually refering to. I simply thought that that is what he was refering to. I have not come in contact with a Heavy truck block, so I don't know if they have standard mounting pad or not. I assumed (*** U ME) that he had and was simply trying to help everyone understand.

Hope this helps clear things up.

Scotty

 

Getting the book would be the smartest thing you could do. It has almost everything you will need to know. Go <A href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0895860708/qid=1043949095/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_1/002-0096232-8520000?v=glance&s=books&n=507846">here</A> to buy it. Oh, you'll at least need a 1" outside micrometer with an accuracy of 1 ten thousandth of an inch, and a telescoping gauge. A 4-5 inch outside micrometer would help too. Tell us how it goes!

 

I am not going to lie to you i didn't read your entire post, to long for me. What I was refering to was that ALOT, not all, did not use standard motor mounts. They were mounted at least in the front by a plate that went from the front part of the motor to the frame. Doing away with one motor mount. I believe the plate was on the front pass. side of engine compartment. I am not sure what treasurehtr24k was acttually refering to. I simply thought that that is what he was refering to. I have not come in contact with a Heavy truck block, so I don't know if they have standard mounting pad or not. I assumed (*** U ME) that he had and was simply trying to help everyone understand.

Hope this helps clear things up.

Scotty [/B][/QUOTE]

To make it simpler for you, it is titled 63 FE motor, and they did not make a FT motor in 63. I think that what you are talking about is different.

 

Get a pair of 6x6x1/4 inch steel plate, drill ALL FOUR holes in the plates, bolt the plate to the block, install the engine, and bolt the plate to your factory style mounts.

Simple fix!

 

I like your thinking Frayed. I was going to try something like that. I'm most worried about the change in overall width. Have you ever done it?

 

I got a couple pics showing them installed on someone elses rig, and I've heard from several other's over the years doing the same thing. My plates are getting drilled this weekend, and I can get pics of them when they come home to send you. I can also send the 2 pics I have now, but they aren't very descriptive, but do show the idea.

For what it's worth, the one shown in the pics I have now have the bolts to the rubbererized mount welded to the plate, with lock washers and nuts on the *backside* of the mounts.

hope I didn't make that all to confusing for you, as I sort of confused myself. And I know what it is I'm trying to say. I think!