If I ever install another locker it will be an ARB air locker.

What gearing do you have in the axles now?

With low range and 3.55 gears with limited slip in both axles and 33" tires, I do rather well off road.

My weak points are the 1345 transfer case, drive shaft and U joints from heavy hauling and towing.
A doubler on the transfer case would only make those weak spots even weaker when down in the low gears.

The 205 gear driven case would take that weak link out of the equation.

The only thing that would help with the driveshaft and U joints would be lower gears in the axles or shorter tires.
But anything below 4.30 would offset any gains made with the Gear Vendors for mileage.

With my setup, 2550 RPM is 70 MPH with 3.55 gears.
With a Gear Vendors overdrive, 4.56 gears at 2550 RPM would also be 70 MPH.
4.30 would be 74 MPH at 2550 RPM
4.10 would be 78 MPH at 2550 RPM.

Figured another way, direct drive transmission, Gear Vendors overdrive, 33" tires.
3.55 at 70 MPH would be 1980 RPM.
4.10 at 70 MPH would be 2280 RPM.
4.30 at 70 MPH would be 2400 RPM.
4.56 at 70 MPH would be 2550 RPM.

 

I prefer the ox locker for the positive cable actuation but it doesn't look like they are available for the 10.25, definitly needs to be a selectable locker I've been in one accident due to detroit lockers(it was just raining) and don't want to repeat the experience

U driveline Universals are my prefered driveline fuse I try to build so nothing breaks but if it does it will be there, a set in the toolbox is cheap insurance.

putting a limited slip in the front hadn't crossed my mind but seems like a good idea

as to the doubler it's not about being able to put out more tourque, i don't think with the diesel and auto I'll ever find a spot I can't spin all four tires on, its about being able to controll the wheelspin so things don't hook in with a thump.

btw the 1345/1346 transfer cases ain't a week link so long as the chains in good shape

 

Detroits aren't that bad, especially in a longer wheelbase vehicle. I've had one in my Bronco for about 15 years. It is hardly noticeable on the street except for very tight turns. I've never had any issues with it in the rain. But, on snow and ice in 2wd, it has a tendency to break the rear loose. Especially if the road or trail is off camber. Pulls straight ahead in 4wd though.

I would choose an automatic locker for the rear, because the majority of time it will be engaged anyways. If you don't want a real Detroit, the True Trac is an excellent choice. It offers nearly the same off road traction of the Detroit, and gives no indication on the street.

With your drivetrain and reasonable tire size you want to run, you shouldn't need a drivetrain fuse anywhere. Just use quality u joints in the drivelines and front axle. And carry spares for each of them, and maybe a spare hub.

Even with super low gearing, you still don't have traction available at the wheels so they are going to spin. And when they do find traction, now there is more torque to them, so you will be more prone to breakage. For example, I originally put a 435 4 speed in my Bronco. It slowed the speed down, but I still spun tires at the same point. With the 4 speed and locker, I was able to go farther without wheelspin. I added a second transfer case and the main thing that it allowed was not having to slip the clutch in extreme situations. I would have liked to experiment with open diffs and the super low range, but I don't think it would have had an advantage. Adding the locker in the front made it go from capable to feeling like I can point it anywhere and it will go. Even without the second transfer case.

I think I understand what your problem is. I believe this is caused more by the torque converter stall speed, than it is gearing (or the lack of). I'm not sure what the stock stall is. But if the stall RPM was lower, you might have more control.

I think Dave has some experience with destroying a Borg Warner transfer case or two. So, I'm sure he can share his insight. The weak point is the chain and the case itself. They have a tendency of splitting when the chain breaks under heavy torque load. Even with the chain drive 203. The chain would stretch or break and need replaced. The case itself was not damaged 99% of the time.

The 205 is as strong as they come, but they lack the low range of the BW's.

Jason

 

To my credit, two 1345 transfer cases one case split one chain broke, four drive shafts, one rear axle yoke, 6 or so 44 IFS axles, to many 44 ball joints to count, to many 44 tie rod ends to count and a couple wheelborrows full of U joints in all positions.

I even broke a 44 IFS housing plowing.

This winter I even took out a set of U joints in my 60 with all the plowing I did.

About the only time I ever spin is when I am on ice or deep mud.

33" tires, 3.55 gears and an 8000 pound truck before I load it, something has got to give.

But gross weights I run with in the mountains here don't help either.

I think a 205 would be a good thing for me, it's easier to change a drive shaft than it is a transfer case..

 

for plowing you might look into the np203/205 doubler setup, all the parts you're likely to break are cheap and you get a real low range so you don't have to slam into the piles so often,

not sure why ford ever thought the 44TTB was stout enough to live under these motors glad my truck has the 50 but wish I could arrord a dana60 swap

 

good news, I picked up my gear vendor today complete with an BW1356 transfer case, gonna get it up in th truck next week, so expect a report on performance.

any opinion on the best low stall tourque convertors for the C6?

 

bad new's when I went out this morning to lay stuff out the gear vendor was not in the truck,

been on the phone, and running around retracing my steps all dammed day, looks like I didn't get the tailgate latched when I stopped in portland, and my new toy is probably already in some scrap heap waiting to be turned in at scrap meatl rate