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overheating/no heat

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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 02:07 AM
  #1  
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billyblanks
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overheating/no heat

Hello, my 99 ranger 3.0 has a overheating problem. At first it seemed like just the gauge was screwy as it wood raise up out of nowhere after driving forever and the check gauge light would go red but then go right off again and be normal. Eventually the truck did actually overheat and sometimes Iwould have heat from the vents and sometimes I wouldnt all while the gauge was on off showing overheating. I have had the system flushed and changed the thermostat and still the same thing happens. Is there something that it could likely be? Ive just spent a bunch of money on unrelated issues and just want to get this fixed not pay someone to do something that doesnt even fix the issue like I already have.......thanks for any help.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 06:39 AM
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atikovi
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From: Suburban Washington DC
You might have air pockets in the cooling system if it wasn't refilled properly.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 01:09 AM
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well i burped the system and didnt have time to drive it yet but also there is a high pitch noise coming from my engine usually when it starts but sometimes it will stop and the noise is kind of like a spinning sound that something rotating would make and the speed of the noise increase as you rev the engine. Hard to explain but what could this be? Its been to three mechanics and none of them have said anything about this noise?
 
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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mobilefleet
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sounds like water pump or fan clutch. Quick fan clutch test is to (with engine off) spin the fan by hand. It should offer resistance and spin once or twice. If it free spins by itself after you spin it it's bad. Another way is to drive it to operating temp and when you pull up and park shut off the engine and by the time you pop the hood and get out of your truck and open it, the fan should be stopped or pretty close. If it is still free spinning it's bad. With the water pump, 11 years old and still original? if so the impeller blades of the pump could be gone, as in rusted out like mine were. That means the pump can't pump hardly any volume through the engine. With truck at operating temp and running put your hand on the inlet and outlet hoses of the heater core located at the firewall passenger side. Squeeze the hoses to verify coolant is running through them. If one of them flattens out easily when being squeezed or is much colder than the other hose, suspect a bad water pump
 
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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well i burped it and filled up the actual radiator till it was overflowing and it drove fine same exact temp for about fifty miles then it started overheating again to where the gauge would go all the way hot while just sitting and not cool down but then i could drive and it would go down a bit like driving helped it? I check the overfill tank and it is full to the top and bubbles out all over the engine when it gets hot. Is it possible the coolant just ran out that i put in the radiator and it can circulate to the overfill tank fine but not back through the radiator? fan clutch is fine but I didnt check the water pump because someone said it would leak if it was bad and I have not seen any leaking.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 09:23 AM
  #6  
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I think you have a bad water pump. The pump will not always leak when its bad, it will only leak ifs its bearing seals are bad.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 06:27 AM
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how much is a water pump and is it possible to put it in myself? It does seem crazy.........
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 06:35 AM
  #8  
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BarnieTrk
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From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
BB,
How old is your radiator cap?
Even though it might look fine, they do get old and then stop allowing coolant to travel back and forth between the radiator & overflow reservoir.

Is the transfer tube from the radiator to the reservoir kinked or plugged, preventing coolant flow?

I'd change/check those two things before ripping the water pump off......just my two-cent worth opinion.

BarnieTrk
 
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