So a couple months back I swapped in a '95 instrument cluster with tach into my 1996 F150 4x2 which lacked one, and immediately got the yellow ABS lite because of slight wiring differences between the two clusters. After collecting various schematics for the two years, I tried a fix suggested by user subford with a diode and resistor which works for 30 minutes, after which the diode blows and I get the light back. We've driven ourselves a bit crazy with a fix that "should work" according to some folks with fair knowledge of electronics, so the other idea I had was to investigate whether it might be possible to have RABS but just without the yellow light. I think the resistor and diode have to do with the position of the parking brake and also low brake fluid. It occurred to me that it might be possible to jumper a wire or wires and tell the RABS module that the brake reservoir was always full and that the parking brake was never set, etc., and then you'd have RABs back. This might be better than no RABs, but then some might disagree ...

 

Or you could just get a cluster from any 1996 or an old body style 1997 F-series/Bronco.

 

andym, always with the easy way to do things.

hahahaha

QL2

 

RABS is terrible on these trucks anyway, I would just pull the fuse and the warning light bulb.

 

Why do you say that ?? Heck-it is just 20 year old technology.

Yeah four wheel ABS would be better-and the 93+ Bronco got it. But RABS is better than no ABS at all.

 

That's debatable.

 

One of the reasons I'm asking is that I've not had any luck with my internet searches for the right cluster. I've NOT tried looking for the old style '97 you mention -- any idea as to the part number?

 

No part number, sorry. Have you tried a junkyard? They are filled with trucks of this vintage now.

 

What debate would that be? It is better to have the rear wheels lock up than not?

 

ABS works better on some surfaces than others. On sand, gravel, snow, or ice, I would rather not have ABS at all. That way I have the option of either locking them up or pumping them myself. A vehicle on a gravel road will stop faster without ABS than with it.

The RABS on these trucks works so poorly it's more trouble than it's worth. And I would never, ever use an ABS valve from Kragen or Autozone. They're cheaper for a reason folks!

 

Here's the tricky bit(s): It has to be a 1996, and a 6-cylinder. I'll tell you what's just absolutely goofy for me: You can't buy a 2010 F150 with a stick, and yet all of them come with a tachometer ...

 

it does not matter if it has a 4.9 or not.

just needs yo be a 96 panel.

 

Cluster plug C250 pin 10 circuit 398 is "Tachometer Ground* (For 8 CYL)" according to one diagram I have, which I've not known how to interpret. Does it mean that the difference is in the vehicle wiring in terms of providing a signal to the cluster? That would explain being able to swap between six and eight cylinder trucks.

 

This makes sense to me. Although I haven't gotten to a point where I've had to explore the limits of the system, I'm aware it exists.

Which brings me to my question, why hasn't someone crafted a way simply to "turn it off" as needed without the associated codes/warning lights, like most other vehicles with traction control?

In other words, spoof as needed.

 

I disagree with this. andym is right - the RABS in these trucks is TERRIBLE, it is worse than no ABS at all. Have you ever had a panic stop with RABS? It's beyond hair-raising. Even in my former 2000 SuperDuty it was crap and exhibited the same characteristics as in my '91 truck. The first thing I do with a Ford truck with RABS is to disable it.

The only thing our RABS has in common with real ABS is the concept.