The difference between the six and eight is in the wiring and not the cluster.
You also use a higher watt diode.

 

Great to hear back from you

I've received a couple of suggestions about different diodes to try. One is to go with a 1w 12v diode, and the other is to try 14v and 16v diodes since the charging system is actually going over 14v.

Any thoughts appreciated.

 

The higher the Voltage and wattage the better. The higher the wattage the less heat there will be. Low watt diodes can get very hot and pop in a short time. I would maybe use at least a 2 watt 16 volt diode if you can find one.

 

I do understand that RABS and ABS sacrifices distance for control. But I have used my RABS and it did a good job of controlling the rear end of the truck.

Have you guys experienced an EMPTY non RABS/ABS pickup on loose gravel,ice,snow,rain in a true OMG drop dead panic stop? I cant believe that anyone would think that a non RABS truck would be better or safer. But that is my opinion.

ABS/RABS allows the factory engineers to bias the braking power more to the rear than on non ABS equipped trucks and I think truly help in braking effectiveness overall.

As to manually pumping the brakes to mimic RABS/ABS: try pumping the brake 10 times per second-I dont think that you can do it. And if you did manually pump the brakes--you will have a longer distance to stop because each pump will be longer in duration than when using a RABS/ABS equipped vehicle.

I live in the land of ice and snow for over 8 months of the year and I like the RABS--even if it is 20 year old technology.

 

considering you have the shortest boy style they made, i dont expect you to understand how bad the RABS was.

 

You are saying that a short wheel base truck is more stable that a longer wheel base truck in panic braking?? If so-that hasnt been my experience when I drive a long wheel base truck-just the opposite---longer wheel base trucks are more stable when braking and driving.Less weight transfer to the front on a longer wheel base truck. Less static weight on the rear on a short wheel base truck.

If you dont believe me-try driving a 93 inch wheel base Jeep Wrangler without ABS in slippery conditions that requires braking. The factory brake bias is like 90/10 in favor of the front. The factory engineers know that there will be almost no weight on the rear because of static weight distribution and panic brake weight transfer to the front. Same as on my 117 inch wheel base F150-almost.

If one thinks that non RABS is better-one would have to think that lockup wheels will give better control than a wheel that is having braking applied 10 times per second-I dont understand how anyone can think that.

I am referring to braking on a surface that would cause loss of control thru wheel lock up. I am not referring to a hard,dry non slippery surface -but braking during snow fall and icy conditions. RABS cant be matched in these conditions by human application of the brake.

The advanages of RABS have been made more apparent to me -when I use 4x4 in the snow. The RABS is automatically disengaged when my pickup is placed in 4x4-a measureable loss of control in the back is very obvious when braking.

 

what i mane was ABS is better in a shorter truck. standard cab shorty's are rare in the older trucks. most people have longer trucks where abs is not needed or is worse then no ABS.

 

How does having a locker (LockRite) influence the braking traction / ABS /RABS equation?

 

it dosent.....differential has nothing to do with brakes because each wheel has a brake. unless the locker is locked and you only have a brake on one wheel, which is not the case.

 

Can some one here assist with a visual aid of what the process would look like to get a resistor and diode and where on back of cluster? Maybe even provide the correct items for each so that I can make this update in my vehicle?

The visuals are the best reference out there and are the easiest to interpret.

I need to create this to make my ABS light go off. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Did you do an instrument cluster w/tach swap for a 94-95 into a 96? If so, I have info that could help.

 

Brother lasitter,

I actually have a 97 F350 (old body style ) I got the tach cluster unit from a 1994. SubFord sent me some schematics, but I am no electrical engineer so it is like looking at a foreign language.

Thanks!