When you're done with yours, wanna do mine? I'll help too...lol

 

some times help like that takes longer. The engine mods will done in about 2.5 days including a complete reseal do to a bedplate. Im also not worried about my warranty being cancled for some reason.

 

I was only kidding, I know my fat **** and twinkie fingers would only get in the way

 

"update hpp and do away with stc fitting"

Cheezit

Could you expand on this as I am right in the middle of tearing the top end off my motor and have never heard of doing away with the stc fitting.

 

I am not Cheezit but I can help. The STC stands for snap to connect and refers to the attachment method used on 2005 and up 6.0 engines to connect the HPOP pump(high pressure oil pump) to the supply for the oil rails under the valve cover. It does not apply to your 2004.

Regards

Ricatic

 

what he said about the stc . the new style is a "T" block we have only seen a few fail and all theone that have have been to the o-ring seal being damaged durring install.

 

So Cheezit how do you drain your torque converter? Does it involve dropping your transmission?

 

with the engine out of the frame rails its just reach in and remove

 

Thanks, I knew it wasn't going to be easy.

 

Well, if you are going to do all that, and not do these steps below, I am going to send a bunch of unemployed Navistar assemblers down to throw casting sand at you!


- Every wiring harness should be checked for suspicious chafes or signs of failure (e.g heat damage, bend / breaks).

If possible, reroute all wiring harness away from heat and vibration, if needs be, install a heat shield or put the loom in a conduit.


- Every connector / plug cleaned, removing all grease and corrosion. This can only be done with clean hands!!!

Then, if the connector has a spring loaded element (like the 2 round ends that hook onto a flat blade contact), tighten it with needle nose pliers to ensure a good, solid contact.

If the connector uses pins, clean all pins, and use the Ford dielectric grease to lubricate it.

If you want to get real snazzy, use silicon spray to lube the wire loom on the inside.

When wiring and connectors are reinstalled, they should be twist tied so as to minimize flex / vibration BUT NOT to cut out intentional flex to prevent breakage.

e.g. the wires to the doors are intentionally done with a length vertically to allow flexing over about 4" to reduce the chance of the wire being overflexed at one point.


If you have any doubt about the wiring, either replace the harness (safe), or get out the VTVM and start testing.

Often a failing harness will test fine, only to die in actual use.




If you have lots of known good sensors lying around, I would consider a package deal to simply throw out every sensor / actuator....