The past few days have been painful and I've read so much my head hurts so now I'm going to put it out there for some help please...........

'03 X 4x4 w/ 7.3l: I developed an oil leak 1.5 weeks ago in the valley draining out the tc hole under truck, I knew it and was going to deal w/ it first chance I got while keeping an eye on the dipstick to make sure it doesn't get low. My wife went shopping Saturday w/ my daughters and going 70mph in the middle of I-4 it shut down on her and would not restart. I got it towed back to the house and it still would not start.

I checked the HPOP level and it was dry, refilled it and it still would not start. Also the dip stick was a liI had oil in the valley but could not tell where the leak was. All the lines were dry.

Over night the HPOP was dry again and I had a small puddle under the truck just like it had been the past week. So I cleaned the top of the motor the best I could w/ Purple Power and dried it w/ compressed air. Refilled the HPOP again, did some cranking to try to get the oil moving around to start inspecting w/ a flashlight and mirror. I still can not find any visible oil leak. My wait to start light comes on, my factory oil gauge moves up to normal after cranking....but my tach does not move and honestly I can not remember if it ever did.

The only other thing I've done different was jack up the drivers side and put a jackstand under the axle (hindsight, I probably should have done it evenly). Last night I left the truck w/ a full HPOP and a dry engine valley, came out this morning and the HPOP was down 2" and no external oil leak and my dipstick was full and now it is up a little higher so I am getting some leaking back into the crank case and I think it's not leaking externally because I have it jacked up.

Also I do not have the A&E software, just a Superchips programmer and the codes I'm getting are:

P1280: ICP out of range low
P1000: Monitor checks not complete
P1212: ICP Voltage not at expected level
P0683: Glow Plug CTRL MOD to PCM

ICP was replaced last year and my HPOP was replaced at the dealer w/ a reman around 95K and the truck has 142k. It was suggested to me to do a "DeadHead" test to see where the pressures are.....I'm hoping my buddies friend is going to be able to do this test tonight......

I know this is long winded....and I'm sorry....but does anybody have any suggestions or am I on the right track?

Thank You for reading........Todd

 

Well I was told to pull one of the HPOP lines and crank the motor w/ my finger over the hole.....almost no pressure but some oil pushed out. I pulled the reservoir plug off and cranked the motor and oil came pouring out. I was told the LPOP is working fine and the HPOP is toast..........Does this sound correct? I guess I'm shopping for an HPOP, what are the benefits of going w/ a modded one and everything else is stock? Thanks......Todd

 

so how many miles did you get outa the reman hpop?

 

It's not very common for the hpop to fail. Dead heading the lines is a good idea. If you go to the ford doctor link in my signature you can download the hpop guide for our trucks. It has some good troubleshooting in it.

 

2yrs & 50k+/- miles

 

The guy couldn't make to help me w/ deadheading & he said sounded like the pump was bad and that is what he would replace.
Thank you for the link.....going to read..........

Also tomorrow I'm going to finally pull the IPR because sometimes they can get stuck open? I have a rebuild kit from Diesel O-rings so I guess I will just rebuild it and try before buying a new pump.

 

Yes I would check IPR first. It could be stuck and not building enough pressure to start.

Did you find your oil leak?

 

No not yet, but pulling my IPR is my plan this morning.

 

Well I finally got the IPR off.....that was a pain! No sockets I had or could find locally were long enough so I ended up getting valve wrenches @ Ace Hardware.....the 1-5/32" fit perfectly! But.....the IPR plunging end appeared to be working perfectly.....so looks like I'm shopping for a HPOP. I know Clay sells the stock for $500 and modded for another $100.....does anybody know the difference? I will probably be calling Clay soon so I will find out, just not sure if I should go the modded route since everything else is stock......Thanks! Todd

 

If you get a new pumpfrom clay have it modded, it's not worth not modding it and I don't think it cost much more if any. He may even have one on the shelf for you.

 

Here are your options to consider.

Riffraff Diesel: Terminator Engineering

 

Clay you are awesome.........again saving my butt! I pulled my HPOP last night and I'm sending it to RiffRaff today and getting a rebuilt one w/ the Terminator Engineering mod for $250.....best price I found anywhere!
Also I'm going to redo all the o-rings in the fuel bowl and do some housekeeping while I have it apart.....just have to figure out all the parts I need and get them ordered. I already have an IPR rebuild kit from Diesel O-rings so that is also a definite..........man it sucks having my truck down!

 

Trust me I know!

 

Just curious but did you remove the res, or just the fuel bowl? There is a screen made into the rubber gasket that you could clean and check for debris from the pump failure. Also makes reinstallation super easy.

 

correct me if i am wrong.....there is a valve beside the HPOP that will fail and let the oil drain out of the resivor and drain back into crank case..