I did the 10K mod. 22k works best!
#1
I did the 10K mod. 22k works best!
Found a reference to a "10k mod" somehow on the net, looked it up more and came across c00nhunters post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...on-my-10k.html
So i jumped to the 15.6K mod and i felt more power but saw no smoke. I drove not even 1/4 mile jumped out and swapped to my 22K I made. I LOVE the power but still no smoke. Only a rough idle once in a while and when i let off the fuel and push the clutch in sometimes it will auto rev my RPMS up about another 300-500.
I know the Mod is just a band-aid for a tuner, but 99 cents is much cheaper then $350-$600. The only thing i dont like is in the past 2 days ive watched my fuel gauge move down in what i normally do in a week! Other then that is there any other problems this mod could drive to the surface? Im scared if elevated EGTs and such...
So i jumped to the 15.6K mod and i felt more power but saw no smoke. I drove not even 1/4 mile jumped out and swapped to my 22K I made. I LOVE the power but still no smoke. Only a rough idle once in a while and when i let off the fuel and push the clutch in sometimes it will auto rev my RPMS up about another 300-500.
I know the Mod is just a band-aid for a tuner, but 99 cents is much cheaper then $350-$600. The only thing i dont like is in the past 2 days ive watched my fuel gauge move down in what i normally do in a week! Other then that is there any other problems this mod could drive to the surface? Im scared if elevated EGTs and such...
#5
#6
It fools the ECM into believing its HPOP ipressure is too low for the conditions in the fueling table, skewing the IPR pressure upward, meaning the fuel is injected with higher pressure oil, and if the injector pulse width is the same, more fuel in shoved into the cylinder.
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#7
Increasing the injection control pressure can slightly advance the start of combustion due to a slightly more atomized fuel plume from the nozzle holes because the smaller droplets are easier/faster to ignite. Not to be confused with start of injection which is usually referred to as "timing" and when the PCM commands the injector to begin spraying fuel into the combustion chamber in relation to piston orientation in the cylinder.
Aftermarket tuning-caused advanced start of injection DOES NOT always mean an advanced start of combustion. However, all else remaining constant, the fuel will usually ignite sooner due to an increase in SOI.
There is only one real drawback to running an in-line module or a resistor on the injection control pressure circuit. The high pressure oil pump is working harder all of the time (except at idle with the better "boxes" out there that monitor the idle validation switch). This causes premature wear and eventual failure of the high pressure oil pump because it is always creating more pressure than it would be stock. Granted, aftermarket tuning increases injection control pressure a bit, but it's not at every operating range and it's not all the time.
Increasing the injection control pressure, whether in the tuning or by fooling the injection control pressure sensor input to the PCM, is usually a good way to pick up a bit of economy and add a bit of snap to the accelerator pedal. It's not going to add a ton of power but it's not going to hurt the engine a bit to run a few hundred extra PSI of injection pressure.
Aftermarket tuning-caused advanced start of injection DOES NOT always mean an advanced start of combustion. However, all else remaining constant, the fuel will usually ignite sooner due to an increase in SOI.
There is only one real drawback to running an in-line module or a resistor on the injection control pressure circuit. The high pressure oil pump is working harder all of the time (except at idle with the better "boxes" out there that monitor the idle validation switch). This causes premature wear and eventual failure of the high pressure oil pump because it is always creating more pressure than it would be stock. Granted, aftermarket tuning increases injection control pressure a bit, but it's not at every operating range and it's not all the time.
Increasing the injection control pressure, whether in the tuning or by fooling the injection control pressure sensor input to the PCM, is usually a good way to pick up a bit of economy and add a bit of snap to the accelerator pedal. It's not going to add a ton of power but it's not going to hurt the engine a bit to run a few hundred extra PSI of injection pressure.
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#8
#10
#11
There is only one real drawback to running an in-line module or a resistor on the injection control pressure circuit. The high pressure oil pump is working harder all of the time (except at idle with the better "boxes" out there that monitor the idle validation switch).
IMO, for $75, I can have a safer program that sets it up right and the shift points the way I want. I don't really see this as a very cost effective mod. Lower initial cost, yes. Long run, I'm not sure.
#12
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