need help troubleshooting 302 engine
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: texas
need help troubleshooting 302 engine
my 1967 ford has 302 v8 with 2 barrel carb. been running well for several years but recently not able to idle and no power. rebuilt carb, new fuel pump, new vacuum hoses and new coil. starts up quick but will not idle for more than 2 minutes. need help fast as the HOA is after me to get it moved.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: texas
i replaced electric choke and it works. problem started suddenly when I was going down the block a couple of weeks ago. I saw a leak on the carb at the accelerator pimp cover and that is when i rebuilt carb. still not able to idle. however sometimes it will idle for several minutes beautifully then dies. always starts easy but then doesn't idle sometimes backfires.
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Check you timing chain. If you just replaced, stop right here.
Get a breaker bar, pull the plugs if you like to make it easier to turn over by hand.
Pull the distributor cap.
Rotate the engine till it moves.
Reverse rotation, and note how far the crank moves before the rotor does. All that rotation is the slop in your cam chain.
The slop allows the cam and ignition to phase back and forth during idle, causing the engine to run great for a while then slip into running poorly, sometimes backfiring etc.
Eventually, it will jump and it won't run at all.
Get a breaker bar, pull the plugs if you like to make it easier to turn over by hand.
Pull the distributor cap.
Rotate the engine till it moves.
Reverse rotation, and note how far the crank moves before the rotor does. All that rotation is the slop in your cam chain.
The slop allows the cam and ignition to phase back and forth during idle, causing the engine to run great for a while then slip into running poorly, sometimes backfiring etc.
Eventually, it will jump and it won't run at all.
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,475
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You could check with a timing light. If timing is off, that would be one clue. If timing wanders at idle, that would be a major clue.
You'll know it's bad when you look at it. The nylon top gear shows visible wear, and the slack in the chain is visible also--even though the chain will look ok.
You'll know it's bad when you look at it. The nylon top gear shows visible wear, and the slack in the chain is visible also--even though the chain will look ok.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Check you timing chain. If you just replaced, stop right here.
Get a breaker bar, pull the plugs if you like to make it easier to turn over by hand.
Pull the distributor cap.
Rotate the engine till it moves.
Reverse rotation, and note how far the crank moves before the rotor does. All that rotation is the slop in your cam chain.
The slop allows the cam and ignition to phase back and forth during idle, causing the engine to run great for a while then slip into running poorly, sometimes backfiring etc.
Eventually, it will jump and it won't run at all.
Get a breaker bar, pull the plugs if you like to make it easier to turn over by hand.
Pull the distributor cap.
Rotate the engine till it moves.
Reverse rotation, and note how far the crank moves before the rotor does. All that rotation is the slop in your cam chain.
The slop allows the cam and ignition to phase back and forth during idle, causing the engine to run great for a while then slip into running poorly, sometimes backfiring etc.
Eventually, it will jump and it won't run at all.
There really is no spec for how many degrees of crank rotation until the cam moves, as far as I know. I think about about 3/4" of movement at the timing pointer would be about the cutoff point. I't,s a lot better way to check IMO, not sure you'd see much timing variation with a light, and even if I did I'd still do the crank rotating thing to be sure.
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